another caster solution

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

everythings in, I measured right!

To your discussion on the I beam thingy, Tube is stronger in yaw forces, as long as there is no deformation in the tube. If you were to deform (dent - crease) the tube, stress acts like water, and takes the path of least resistance.

The reason you don't want to rosebud the arms is that they need to be longer number 1, and 2, you will create a HAF making the arm actually weaker in that spot.

j
 
landtank said:
Don't know about automotive design but I-beams are rather common in the construction field as in bridges and buildings. I can't recall round tubes being used except in a compression situation such as pillars.

I-beams are easier and cheaper to manufacture than round. They also offer flat planes to attach to, and be placed on. The compromise is that I-beams have more strength in the verticle plane than the horizontal, when used as intended. This is not an issue for situations where the force is primarily directed down through the core, such as between floors of a building or even our suspension, where there is little side force applied. This doesn't prove that the Slee pipe is superior to the factory I-beam, just explains why I-beams are common in contsruction.

-Spike
 
-Spike- said:
I was rather impressed with the Slee arms. I'm no engineer, but I'd bet they were stronger than stock.

-Spike

That maybe true, but I have never seen a broken stocker and see a bunch more stockers getting abused than aftermarket ones.

arm_s.jpg
 
landtank said:
Glad they worked out for you John. You have to admit, they do have an eye-sore factor of 10.

In the immortal words of my friend PT:

dude, it don't have to be pretty, we aint building a rolex

:grinpimp:

I'll take function over beauty anyday. besides. I like homegrown. It's Kustom!
 
Yikes! You know the explanation for that?

Gives me yet another reason to put my stock bars on over the axle.

-Spike
 
-Spike- said:
Yikes! You know the explanation for that?

Gives me yet another reason to put my stock bars on over the axle.

-Spike

Yep, it broke, we glued it back with the mig.:hillbilly
 
Tools R Us said:
Yep, it broke, we glued it back with the mig.:hillbilly

I know where you wheel...

-Spike
 
Tools R Us said:
That maybe true, but I have never seen a broken stocker and see a bunch more stockers getting abused than aftermarket ones.

arm_s.jpg


That's the first one I've seen with the weld failed in between the axle mounts. I've seen them fail at the rear axle mount-to-tube point. I believe Christo identified an issue with the welding procedure his fabricator used in the early arms and is now doing them in a different manner. He has also added a gusset to the back of the axle end of the arm.
 
-Spike- said:
I know where you wheel...

-Spike

You obviously have no clue what your talking about, I don't wheel? :D
 
Tools R Us said:
That maybe true, but I have never seen a broken stocker and see a bunch more stockers getting abused than aftermarket ones.

arm_s.jpg


that was not exactly a very good weld, was it?
 
Tools R Us said:
You obviously have no clue what your talking about, I don't wheel? :D

OK, I know the dirt roads you frequent...

-Spike ;p
 
well, I am sorry to say that so far there fine. we (rising sun club - colorado) went on a snow run yesterday, and I found a rock garden to bang on. I did scratch the paint though...
 
cruiserdan said:
That's the first one I've seen with the weld failed in between the axle mounts. I've seen them fail at the rear axle mount-to-tube point. I believe Christo identified an issue with the welding procedure his fabricator used in the early arms and is now doing them in a different manner. He has also added a gusset to the back of the axle end of the arm.

What Dan said, but to add, if there are people out there with the earlier arms without the gussets, please call us, we have gussets we can send you that you can add to the arms.
 
I like these.

cruiserda_L.jpg


Though it seems like they will cost ya at least $1050 in US Dollars.
 
Derek, those look great for correcting caster but that's all those really do. For $100 and some time you can do the plates and for less than $20, more time and a lot more fab skills you can do what z80 has done. Same results. Those are a beautiful shade of Ford blue though.
 
clownmidget said:
Derek, those look great for correcting caster but that's all those really do. For $100 and some time you can do the plates and for less than $20, more time and a lot more fab skills you can do what z80 has done. Same results. Those are a beautiful shade of Ford blue though.

True but the advantage here is no welds. Also it's the most OEM like solution which appeals to me.
 
Back
Top Bottom