Another 40 trailer... (1 Viewer)

[NMC_EXP]

The Bulldog hitch is as stout as they come and is a great choice.

Another option is a pintle hitch / lunette ring. The rear frame cross member on your Troopy may be factory drilled to mount a non-rotating pintle (rectangular 4-bolt pattern). There are many M416 1/4 ton trailer lunette ring assemblies loose in the wild from M416 modifications. These lunette assemblies are designed to rotate around their axis when the tow vehicle leans one way and the trailer the other. This system does what the Lock & Roll hitch does - eliminates twisting load on the hitch and allows the trailer to follow the camber it's on.

If the troopy has a receiver hitch mounted already there are pintle hitch adapters available.

I recommend a USGI surplus pintle hitch. These are forged while many of the commercial ones are cast.

I've had military trailers for years. There is a small amount of slack between the pintle and lunette ring but the noise never bothered me.

 

[The Jade Bean]

The Bulldog hitch is as stout as they come and is a great choice.

Another option is a pintle hitch / lunette ring. The rear frame cross member on your Troopy may be factory drilled to mount a non-rotating pintle (rectangular 4-bolt pattern). There are many M416 1/4 ton trailer lunette ring assemblies loose in the wild from M416 modifications. These lunette assemblies are designed to rotate around their axis when the tow vehicle leans one way and the trailer the other. This system does what the Lock & Roll hitch does - eliminates twisting load on the hitch and allows the trailer to follow the camber it's on.

If the troopy has a receiver hitch mounted already there are pintle hitch adapters available.

I recommend a USGI surplus pintle hitch. These are forged while many of the commercial ones are cast.

I've had military trailers for years. There is a small amount of slack between the pintle and lunette ring but the noise never bothered me.

Good idea. I’ve got one on the Troopy actually. This is probably the most stout and cost effective direction to go.

 

[The Jade Bean]

As far as a “roof”, I’m thinking of going with a canvas top and making the bows out of wood. Here’s a superb video of a craftsman making some.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Wonder if the bolt pattern on your bumper matches that on the pintle hitch? If you do not need the extension that would be simpler and stronger.

I mentioned the M416 lunette assembly having the ability to rotate on uneven ground. The pintle hitches used on the USGI CUCV trucks were designed to rotate. These have a central shaft that goes thru the bumper. One of these pintles allows the use of a fixed lunette on the trailer side.

I'm biased - for some reason I've never really trusted ball mounts. I can eyeball a pintle hitch and know it is securely engaged. Not so with a ball mount.

I know the ball type works - couple of months ago on I-25 I came up on a wreck that just happened. A new 4Runner towing a 24 ft camper trailer had lost control. The trailer was on its side, the 4Runner was still hitched to it but its rear wheels were off the pavement.

 

[The Jade Bean]

@NMC_EXP solid points. There’s so many variables and I’d like to plan for as much as possible. Thx!!

 

[NMC_EXP]

As far as a “roof”, I’m thinking of going with a canvas top and making the bows out of wood.

I like that idea.

Since I'm stuck in the GI surplus mode here's something to consider: Rather than bent wood for the bows you could use rack and bow components from the USGI M101 series of trailers. The bow corners are sheet metal bent 90 deg. The uprights and top pieces are oak 1x2.

The side racks use metal stakes to which are mounted oak 1x4. The front rack is fixed, the rear is a side swinging gate system. The upright bow legs fit into stake pockets on the side racks and can be removed.

This system modified to fit your tub might be pretty slick. You could make it any height you want.

Here is a complete M101 rack and bow system:

M101-A2 trailer with rack/bow system and cover installed:

M101 trailer with racks/bows installed and bows stowed for going topless:

 

[The Jade Bean]

I like that idea.

Since I'm stuck in the GI surplus mode here's something to consider: Rather than bent wood for the bows you could use rack and bow components from the USGI M101 series of trailers. The bow corners are sheet metal bent 90 deg. The uprights and top pieces are oak 1x2.

The side racks use metal stakes to which are mounted oak 1x4. The front rack is fixed, the rear is a side swinging gate system. The upright bow legs fit into stake pockets on the side racks and can be removed.

This system modified to fit your tub might be pretty slick. You could make it any height you want.

Here is a complete M101 rack and bow system:

View attachment 1856608
M101-A2 trailer with rack/bow system and cover installed:

View attachment 1856609

Another friend suggested that as well and I’d love that, BUT the cost of the corners as a start are stupid expensive. I’d love to find a good deal on some corners. My tub if all goes to plan will be 5’ long.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Whats the going rate for the corners?

 

[The Jade Bean]

Whats the going rate for the corners?

The cheapest I’ve seen is $60 for 2 shipped, but most are asking $100 per corner.

That’s more than I paid for the whole 40 when all purchased!

 

[NMC_EXP]

The cheapest I’ve seen is $60 for 2 shipped, but most are asking $100 per corner.

Wow.

Ten years ago I sold that complete system pictured above for $250 to a guy with a M101 trailer. No wonder he was smiling so much.

I have another M101 rack/bow system complete except it's missing one of the five bows.

Its 550 miles from Raton to you.........

 

[The Jade Bean]

Wow.

Ten years ago I sold that complete system pictured above for $250 to a guy with a M101 trailer. No wonder he was smiling so much.

I have another M101 rack/bow system complete except it's missing one of the five bows.

Its 550 miles from Raton to you.........

Wow back...good deal for him. Lol. Prices are always changing as demand does. You selling the other set? That’s not to far of a road trip depending on the price.

 

[NMC_EXP]

JB I should sell the other set.

I used to own mil vehicles and figured It would go to someone in the MVPA crowd but that's unlikely to happen here in my new neighborhood.

We should talk.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Made some 3/4 wood pads to put jack stands on to lift the trailer 40 project. Closer to disassembling!

 

[The Jade Bean]

Any leads on how to remove the tranny/transfer case OR can it just hang from the motor once I cut the frame?

 

[The Jade Bean]

Got some goodies from @mesa man for the trailer!!

 

[samc2447]

Any leads on how to remove the tranny/transfer case OR can it just hang from the motor once I cut the frame?

You can pull them through the trans hump from above or remove the whole engine combo at the same time.

 

[The Jade Bean]

You can pull them through the trans hump from above or remove the whole engine combo at the same time.

Hoping to leave it connected to the motor and disconnect it from the frame so I can cut the frame and leave it all on the front end for easy moving. Guess I’ll see as I take more off.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Sold our Shasta trailer and kept the water tank. Hoping to retro fit it in the trailer build. That would give me 20 gallons of fresh water. It works off pressure...so just pump in air and you have water pressure!

 

[The Jade Bean]

Good deal? Wanting some for the drop down tail gate on the trailer.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Making some progress finally...