"Another" 1971 Pig Build Thread!

[StevenS]

Color scheme

It'll be orange and white when I'm done.

Pollux Orange and Cygnus White, to be specific.

S

 

[StevenS]

Adventures with Adhesive Remover

The wifey has a girl's night out, so I'm taking advantage and getting some stuff done on the Pig. The rear seat had a whole bunch of glue residue on it from someone's interesting carpet re-do, so I've been tackling the carpet a little at a time. I swung by the auto parts store on my way home from work, grabbed a can of 3M adhesive remover, and set about attacking all of the old glue. I think I've successfully killed more brain cells than I've removed glue, and the mosquitoes thought it was free blood night on the Steven buffet, so I gave in after about an hour of spraying and scrubbing. I've cleared my sinuses so well I can smell what we cooked for dinner last week. Some glue gone, but more work to be done. I think I'll finish the rest in broad daylight, in a pair of long pants, and with a strong fan running!

 

[StevenS]

Chip Parsons

Anyone know if Chip Parsons - aka Tuscaloosa Metal Crafters - is still in business? I tried to reach out to him yesterday to begin planning for my floorboard rebuild but his number posted on other threads (205-562-8022) no longer seems to be connected.

Anyone know Chip personally who can provide some insight? I'm in the market for a quality metal fabricator (in the Southeast) and Chip seems to be the man. Any help or leads appreciated.

S

 

[bobm]

StevenS, dont know Chip but I can supply floorboards for both Drivers side and Passenger side, Also body mounts if needed.

Thanks Bob.

 

[StevenS]

StevenS, dont know Chip but I can supply floorboards for both Drivers side and Passenger side, Also body mounts if needed.

Thanks Bob.

Bob-
Thanks for posting. This looks like it may be a great solution. After looking more at my wagon this weekend, it appears I may need to have new front seat posts fabricated as well. I'll try to take some pics today and post, and maybe you can tell me what you think. Can you send me some price information?
Thanks!
Steven

 

[htownfire]

This is a really nice rig. I hope you doo it justice.

 

[StevenS]

This is a really nice rig. I hope you doo it justice.

Without a garage I am certainly limited - but the good news is I'll be sending out items to be worked that I can't do in my back yard. I'm a master at deconstruction and reassembly.

 

[StevenS]

front seat denim cover removal

OK, so the jean covers just had to go. Jean pockets? Probably a great idea at the time, but slightly dated now.

The bad news is that once I got the denim covers off, all the original vinyl beneath had been removed. I'll have to see about getting the front seat recovered to match the original vinyl on the rear seat.

BTW, anyone know what the "buttons" are on the backs of the original front seats? I have no idea what these things do. There were two of them - one in back of the driver's seat, one in back of the passenger's.

 

[StevenS]

Started removing interior items today. Got the heater unit out. Examining the hoses it was amusing to see what one of the P.O.s set on the dashboard and lost down into the heating ductwork. Amusing enough to take a photo. Edit: not pictured is some fishing tackle which I actually pulled from the heater core. Glad I saw it before I reached my hand down in there.

Wifey was also helpful today. Her small hands were able to reach in and unplug things my mitts couldn't get to. Thanks baby!

 

[StevenS]

Couple of observations and questions resulting from today's progress.

1. When I removed all of the heater hoses from the rear heater, I noticed an on/off valve in the supply line. Would this have been an OEM item or perhaps something a PO spliced in to control coolant flow to the rear heater? If it's not needed I'll chuck it.

2. Are replacement air supply hoses available for the heater unit? Mine are pretty dry rotted and splitting on the ends. Didn't notice how badly until I removed them. The heater core seems a little different from early FJ40 units but I could be mistaken. If the parts are interchangeable and still available I won't sweat tossing the air hoses. Heater core looks fantastic otherwise.

Thanks

 

[StevenS]

Anyone know whether I can manually lower my rear window or is it only movable via electrical control from the dash? Quickly starting to remove dash components and don't want to get stuck with window up and no way to roll it down once everything is disconnected. It will also save me from having to purchase s battery.

 

[JackA]

Pretty sure the buttons on the back of the seat were for the headrests. Not sure on the rear window dash switch, but the key on the tailgate should still work the window.

 

[StevenS]

Thanks Jack. I was having trouble getting the key into the tailgate last weekend. I'm not sure what the deal is. I may have to put some graphite in the lock to loosen it up a bit. The key didn't budge. Since the key will run off the battery, sounds like I will have to invest in one this week.

Looking at the Optima Yellowtop D34. Since it is a deep cycle battery, it should withstand being used only on occasion as I continue with the restoration.

Any dissenters?

 

[Sno bored]

Thanks Jack. I was having trouble getting the key into the tailgate last weekend. I'm not sure what the deal is. I may have to put some graphite in the lock to loosen it up a bit. The key didn't budge.

Are you trying to use you ignition key in the tailgate? You should have 3 keys; ignition, tailgate window, and doors? I have never locked my doors, so I don't know if my door keys work.

 

[bigsal]

OK, so the jean covers just had to go. Jean pockets? Probably a great idea at the time, but slightly dated now.

The bad news is that once I got the denim covers off, all the original vinyl beneath had been removed. I'll have to see about getting the front seat recovered to match the original vinyl on the rear seat.

BTW, anyone know what the "buttons" are on the backs of the original front seats? I have no idea what these things do. There were two of them - one in back of the driver's seat, one in back of the passenger's.

Holy crap... looks like Big Bertha's pants... he he he...

By the way, my ignition key is also used in the tailgate. I did have to remove the taligate switch from the tailgate and rebuild it... what a PITA though. And it still only works for down... I'm just not willing to take it all apart again....

 

[bigsal]

Anyone know whether I can manually lower my rear window or is it only movable via electrical control from the dash? Quickly starting to remove dash components and don't want to get stuck with window up and no way to roll it down once everything is disconnected. It will also save me from having to purchase s battery.

I don't know any other way except to DC the thing from the inside and take it apart... total pain. I wish I had one of the hand crank windows. I love my pig but hate the electric window.... I have been toying with building my own hand crank option. All I need is a little hole in the tailgate and I could weld a crank to the window gear. Maybe next year.

 

[Sno bored]

By the way, my ignition key is also used in the tailgate.

Looks like my tailgate may not have started life on this pig

 

[StevenS]

Are you trying to use you ignition key in the tailgate? You should have 3 keys; ignition, tailgate window, and doors? I have never locked my doors, so I don't know if my door keys work.

I do have 3 keys for the wagon, but two of them look exactly alike. Maybe I'm supposed to have a 4th that is keyed differently for the back gate - but these are all that were given to me. Uh oh. I hope I'm not missing a key!

I'll reach out to the P.O. and see if he remembers whether one of the keys works on the gate. Luckily he's only a phone call away.

 

[StevenS]

Looks like my tailgate may not have started life on this pig

Well it does beg the question of whether the ignition key is supposed to run the tailgate or if another key does. Maybe some other owners will (hopefully) chime in on this. I'm pretty sure all of the lock cores on the wagon are original. I'll monkey around with some graphite powder and try every key to see if I have any better luck. But first I must set about buying a new battery. Priced a yellowtop at NTB today - $225!! Amazon has the same battery for $159 + $20 shipping - but there are a lot of reviews that complain about packaging and their batteries being destroyed in transit. Hopefully Amazon has learned their lesson from this and has gotten better with shipping. I may bite the bullet and give them a try.

Wish me luck.

 

[StevenS]

Optima Yellowtop D34 on the way

$189 shipped. Not bad when compared to what NTB wanted to charge me. Hope it arrives in one piece.....