Determined that my alternator isn't doing well, and certainly can't handle all of the load I'm hitting it with. I did search and found Photoman's bracket for the Sequoia 150A unit, but nothing recent and honestly couldn't find the details on the update. Is this the only option out there, or is there anything else worth looking into?
Alternator update
- Thread starter 8cam
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Rebuild what you have.
Your alternator isn't doing well because of what?
I mean, unless you've calculated that 90amps just isn't enough, it could be the brushes (replaceable, cheap, and easy) or the regulator (less-cheap, still easy).
What is the issue you are having exactly? Pics help immensely.
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I recently installed photoman’s kit and it’s working great.
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- #5
All good questions, and I can only describe all of my troubleshooting. Other than normal loads (stereo, a/c, etc.) I also have LED trail lights, a HAM radio and probably the biggest potential draw, a second battery system using a LiFePO4 battery and a Redarc controller. It's that second battery system that started the digging and after testing everything within it (everything works like it's supposed to), I turned my attention to the alternator. The symptom was as soon as I turned on the charging circuit (truck battery to Redarc/LFP battery) I would get a voltage drop at the Redarc input, meaning it was trying to draw more amps and they simply weren't available. A breaker would trip and no more charging. FYI the Redarc will draw up to 40 amps, the HAM something between 10-20amps on transmit, and then all the other stuff I'm running.
At idle, the voltage drop was quick, 30 seconds or so. My wife raised the engine RPM to 2k and I would see the voltage rise at the Redarc and things would remain relatively stable for a time, but overall still drop slowly.
So then I purchased a charger with a built-in alternator test function (needed the charger anyway) and hooked it up. With no load and engine idling, it tested ok. then I added all lights, both radios and a/c (left the second battery disconnected) and tested again, and this time the alternator failed. It simply can't keep up with the demand, even without the second battery system. A rebuild will probably help, but I figure with the power draw and the potential to add more accessories, an upgrade seems like a good idea.
Get a genuine Denso 110 amp unit if you don't already have one and if you don't already have the later style tensioner bracket get one of them too. There is no need for a massive 150+ amp capable alternator unless you also make massive cables to carry that potential output current back to the battery to then have it fed to whatever high current draw devices you've fitted.
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I recently replaced my stock alternator with a 150A unit from a Sequoia, using the bracket from Photoman. It really wasn't much more difficult than swapping in a stock replacement. I added a 2AWG wire back to the battery with a 150A fuse in line. I highly recommend the upgrade.
Cheers
Cheers
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- #8
Got a link? The replacement alternators are all 80 amp, not finding a 110 that matches up.
Just briefly...and assuming your alternator brushes and regulator are in good shape....
1) You don't have to care what the input voltage to the RedArc is. This is exactly what the RedArc is for. It boosts its input voltage and outputs to any number of batteries for proper charging. Check the RedArcs *output*. You should find a more than sufficient voltage (13-ish volts) for fully charging whatever (downstream) batts are connected to it. This also allows you to keep the cabling costs down as you need not worry about the voltage drop over length (within reason of course).
2) If you're staying with add-ons connected to your crank batt, I highly recommend a second engine bay battery for use in that purpose instead. Then run the 1240 off the second battery. This allows the second battery to deal with the dynamic loads moment to moment, and your alternator will simply raise or lower its charging efforts within a more "static" range. (It also ensures the factory wiring and power are preserved to do what they were designed to do)
Mine are separated by a PAC/PAC200 relay with manual control + voltage and current charge/discharge monitoring so I know when to bind and when to de-bind (among several other neato bits of info).
You can also try MeanGreen alternators.
I bought one for my 60 years ago and it worked great.
I also bought one for my 80 but haven’t installed it yet.
200 amps!
Edit: I bought their starter and would not buy again. It sounds like an old dodge with straight-cut gears. (Terrible)
here’s a link where to purchase the Mean Green unit from Spray-it-Racing
I bought one for my 60 years ago and it worked great.
I also bought one for my 80 but haven’t installed it yet.
200 amps!
Edit: I bought their starter and would not buy again. It sounds like an old dodge with straight-cut gears. (Terrible)
here’s a link where to purchase the Mean Green unit from Spray-it-Racing
93-97 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5 Liter Mean Green High Amp alternator with warranty | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 93-97 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5 Liter Mean Green High Amp alternator with warranty at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
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- Thread starter
- #11
Actually when I was trying to track down this issue, I worked with Mark @ Redarc and he had me checking the input voltage (output has always been a steady 13.4-ish). That's where I observed the voltage drop and concurrent increase in the current demand. I've got a 40A breaker on that input, and it trips when the voltage hits 11.8, which is exactly what the math predicts, assuming a small resistance in the 6ga wire coming from the front. We went through everything and he came back to either a bad connection or a problem with the alternator. I verified every component and connection one at a time, all the way to the truck battery, and all checked out leaving me with the alternator. Then I checked that and got a failure on load, without the rear battery connected.
I'm ordering photomans bracket and pully, and have a Sequoia alternator ordered. I may yet install a second battery in the engine bay for the reasons you mentioned, but I figure it's worth the upgrade in any case. I appreciate the insight!
Copy that. Please include pics of the bracket and alternator. I think all the others ones have fallen off the board for one reason or another.
And even tho RedArc claims a 6AWG wire will work...I really think it will stress even the Sequoia alternator regulator. Especially after a day or two's use of the LiPo, when you're cranked back up and recharging.
Will you be adding a solar panel too? That will help 'regen' without using fuel.
A 1225 can move 40 amps?? Wuhl that's some inside baseball.
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- #16
As promised, here’s a pic of the bracket kit along with the new alternator. I’ve got about four hours into the install today, have to break and go meet up with friends. Everything is in place and I’m tensioning the belts now. Tomorrow morning I’ll finish that, torque everything and be done. I’ll put a lot more info in my maintenance thread, see my sig.
I got the bracket myself, seems like it belongs here. I also considered this Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator I think tundra and sequoia alternators will be more common than a jag one.
Not sure about the 5.7 alternators... The bracket I know works on the 4.7. however I think the 100 series version might have a pi out to adjust differently from the tundra and Sequoia
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This is a picture of the back of the bracket. The bracket has a radius machined in that matches the distance from the top alternator mount to one of the 130/150 amp alternator "ears". The extruded boss, if you will, of the small adjusting arm rides this radius when tightening the bolt to tension the belts. The 2003-2007 Tundra had up to the 130 amp alternator; the 2003-2007 Sequoia had up to the 150 amp. I believe they were both for the towing package. Not sure. The Toyota part numbers for those alternators are 27060-0F040 for the 130 amp and 27060-0F050 for the 150 amp.
The second picture (left to right) shows a 130 amp, a 150 amp, and a 180 amp which is off of a 5.7. The one off the 5.7 bolts to the motor so is not adjusted. The adjustment is through a tension pulley on a serpentine poly vee belt.
Bill
The second picture (left to right) shows a 130 amp, a 150 amp, and a 180 amp which is off of a 5.7. The one off the 5.7 bolts to the motor so is not adjusted. The adjustment is through a tension pulley on a serpentine poly vee belt.
Bill