Aftermarket Stereo in 98 LX470 But Keeping Factory Speakers (& Amp, If Applicable)

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If you want....but can also just put together with any keyed power, all you have to do is have them apply 12v keyed power to it so the AMP will WAKE UP when you turn on vehicle. The wire is already in the loom going to current stereo....

You doing yourself or taking to a shop?

There are lots of threads...but from what I remember.

speaker outs are standard.....as amp handles any crossovers.

constant power is needed for stereo memory

power for dimmer is not used

keyed power for POWER and to WAKE UP AMP

Antennae is standard hookup

Ground out the DVD lead if you are getting this option on new stereo so you can watch it anytime...instead of just when in Park. :)

It was very straight forward.
 
If you need to ground out the DVD and/or NAV, see if you can find an online forum for the deck you bought in case there are other changes that need to be made. E.g. I have a Pioneer AVIC-D3 (3-4 years old) and there was a pin on the back you had to change otherwise the deck would use the GPS to detect you were moving and still lock you out.

My deck had an external amp trigger, so I just used that. The amp always has power IIRC, and uses a trigger line for it which the key acc line will work for too.

For the dimmer (or day/night), someone noted to me that you have to find a power line to the panel back-lighting, for your air system controls, for example. That way, when you turn on your headlights your stereo will dim (or inverse light/dark depending on the unit). I never hooked up this wire...have to get around to it someday but I just haven't done it.

I also had problems with a ground loop creating a buzzing noise. I tried at least 5 different ground locations/wires, and none did away with it. Time to drop the $10-25 for a ground loop isolator.
 
I just finish installed the Kenwood dnx7160 to my 99 lx470. The sound coming out is real low and static even with the volume on max. Any suggestion what to look for. Thanks
 
2000 Lexus LX470 Stereo Wiring
Constant 12V+ Blue/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Gray
Ground Brown
Illumination n/a
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Black/Red
Antenna Right Front

Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Pink
Left Front (-) Purple
Right Front (+) Green
Right Front (-) Blue
Rear Speakers 6 1/2"
Rear Door Left Rear (+) Black
Left Rear (-) Yellow
Right Rear (+) Red
Right Rear (-) White






01 WHT +B
02 BLU/YEL +B2
03 n/c
04 GRN ILL
05 BLK/RED ANT+
06 PNK FL+
07 n/c
08 RED RR+
09 BLK RL+
10 GRY ACC
11 BRN E
12 n/c
13 WHT/GRN ILL
14 BLK/RED AMP+
15 ORG MUTE
16 GRN BEEP
17 BLU FR-
18 LT GRN FR+
19 VIO FL-
20 n/c
21 WHT RR-
22 YEL RL-

Run regular speaker outs to the amp.
Jump ACC to the amp remote to get the amp to turn on with radio.
 
Anyone connected the Signal Ground to/from the factory amplifier?
 
I had the constant hiss sound after wiring my new Orion AVR head unit to the factory amplifier.
After connecting the signal ground to earth, this is gone and the sound s much more richer.
But........now I have the engine whinning noise.

How can I get rid of this?
Or like everyone else is suggesting, a new amplifier is the best?
 
I found this in another thread about speakers (https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7488181&postcount=47):

just to clarify something here. when toyota uses a seperate head unit and amplifier they are matched together using a certain pre-voltage to get the audio signal from the head unit to the amp. if you replace just the head unit with aftermarket you will not get good clean sound because the aftermarket head unit does not output the correct pre-voltage that the stock amp is expecting. the rca wires voltage is too low and the speaker voltage (which is what most people connect to the factory amp) is waaay too high. yes, it works but the factory amp cannot produce good clean sound when it is overloaded with the high level input it is getting. you can almost expect some kind of engine "whine" associated with this kind of connection. as far as i know, there is no aftermarket radio that has the correct pre-voltage to feed a stock toyota amp correctly.

It sounds like that is exactly what I have with my aftermarket head unit and factory amplifier.
At least it make sense to me.
 
I found this in another thread about speakers (https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7488181&postcount=47):



It sounds like that is exactly what I have with my aftermarket head unit and factory amplifier.
At least it make sense to me.

This is a likely explanation. I tried to keep my factory amp after installing a new head unit, but the feedback was unable to be tamed. There are plenty of threads on here about this topic, but at the end of the day I believe the only solution is to get rid of the factory amp when using an aftermarket head unit. Amazon has some good prices on 5 channel amps.
 
Did you change the amplifier in yours?
I am looking at the Alpine amp, either the MRX-V70 or PDX-V9, both 5-channel and small footprint so it should fit under the driver seat to replace the factory amp.
 
Yes, I went to an alpine power pack for the short term but have an Alpine-MRX-V70-5-Channel-Amplifier coming along with a new sub. If you have the money, go straight to the 5 channel.
 
Cool. I am also looking at Alpine, either the MRX-V7 or the PDX-V9, both 5 channel.
Have to see if they fit under the seat. Did you test if before you bought it?
 
Yes, I went to an alpine power pack for the short term but have an Alpine-MRX-V70-5-Channel-Amplifier coming along with a new sub. If you have the money, go straight to the 5 channel.

Hi mate, did you receive the amp yet?
 
My CD player finally went out in my 99 LX470. I am planning to swap it out for an aftermarket unit. I am a little unsure though if I need a different amp or not? Can I just splice into factory wires or will I get this whine/feedback others have experienced? Seems some have it and others have been fine just swapping a new head unit. Thanks
 
Howdy all. I have a 1998 LX470 with the in-dash 6 disc CD changer stereo. I don't know if this means that I have the "Nakamichi" or "Mark Levinson" system, nor do I know if this means that I have a built-in factory amplifier.

Anyway, I'm wanting to how things will work if I install an aftermarket stereo but want to continue using the factory speakers. Assuming that my car already has a separate factory amplifier, will I need to use the non-amplified "pre-amp" outputs on the aftermarket stereo? I would think that using the standard amplified outputs on the aftermarket stereo would "double amplify" the output...probably not a good thing. So...how is this usually done? Thanks!

Sorry I'm a little late on this post but I currently have two (2) 1998 Landcruisers (one for me and one for me wife). Some time ago our head unit when out on my wife's LC and needed to replace it.

This is the shop that did the work: South County Mobile Electronics at: http://scmobileelectronics.com/

They are just up the street from me (like that really means anything to you...) but they do great work and if nothing else, if you give them a call they can at least give you an honest answer rather than some of the speculation given on this post by all these sincere MUD folk. (I truly mean that everyone is really is sincere and said these posts are often very appreciated!):cheers:

These guys have done a ton of work for me and do good work.
If you call them, ask for Mark or Dean (the owners) tell them Richard Monetti sent ya.;)

Hope this helps!
 
I think they both should work, as long as you got either the adaptor wiring or splicing into the factory wiring.

I tested my head unit yesterday with an old speaker. After disconnecting the amplifier connector and only one speaker attached, there still was a faint hissing sound but I had the speaker almost next to my ear.
It seems to me that the factory amplifier is the problem. Probably too much power from the new head unit to the factory amplifier.
 
Yesterday I pulled the 2 connectors from the factory amplifier.
First the one and tested the head unit. Nothing, I mean nothing.
Then the other and plugged the first back in. Again nothing.
That means that there is a wire in both connectors in the amp which is connected to the head unit.
I dont have the wire diagram now but have to check this tomorrow.
I think the way forward might be to have a dedicated earth and not using the factory wiring loom earth. Is this correct?
 
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