I have a 68 FJ40 with Auto Meter (Phantom) fuel gauge. It’s not playing well with OEM tank. Does anyone have experience with Auto Meter gauge or has a recommendation I should use to work with OEM tank?
After market fuel gauge help
- Thread starter Trippster
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I run the Autometer gauges in my 45. Are you using the oem sending unit or the one that came with the gauges? I use the one that came with the gauges and drilled the bolt pattern to match the tank, made a gasket and adjusted the float. If that makes sense..
- Thread starter
- #3
Yes, I was hoping to avoid that. Although that sounds like the fix I’ll need.
Thank you for following up
Thank you for following up
- Thread starter
- #4
do you remember the part number for the sending unit you used please?Yes, I was hoping to avoid that. Although that sounds like the fix I’ll need.
Thank you for following up
Thank you very much
Ben
That gauge is allegedly programmable to different fuel level senders. Have you gone through the calibration process from autometer? The stock toyota sender should be very close to either of the two Honda Civic calibrations or you could calibrate to exactly your sender.
They lost me at "Radio Shack"
There are still some Radio Shack’s around, though I don’t know if that part number would still be valid.
It’s just a simple, single-pole, normally-open, push-button switch. You should be able to find one at any auto parts store. This Dorman product would work, in fact it looks like the Radio Shack switch with a blue and a red wire already attached. The link is AutoZone, but most of the major chains carry Dorman stuff.
www.autozone.com
It’s just a simple, single-pole, normally-open, push-button switch. You should be able to find one at any auto parts store. This Dorman product would work, in fact it looks like the Radio Shack switch with a blue and a red wire already attached. The link is AutoZone, but most of the major chains carry Dorman stuff.
Dorman - Conduct-Tite Micro Momentary Push-Button Switch Black
Shop for Dorman - Conduct-Tite Micro Momentary Push-Button Switch Black with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com
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- Thread starter
- #8
Yes Sir
Multiple times using the radio shack button
The result is the same it swings it’s to full and stays there. I’m thinking I have a bad sending unit or the ohms output is too low for sensor to read correctly.
Thank you all. Great advice!
I’ll keep trying
MUD is the best
Multiple times using the radio shack button
The result is the same it swings it’s to full and stays there. I’m thinking I have a bad sending unit or the ohms output is too low for sensor to read correctly.
Thank you all. Great advice!
I’ll keep trying
MUD is the best
Which calibration are you using? One of the pre-programmed Civic ones or the custom one?
ATM-990345 or ATM-3262. These are the Autometer sending units part #'s from Summit Racing. I am not sure which one I used as it was many years ago. All of my gauges are electric. Happy to help!Yes, I was hoping to avoid that. Although that sounds like the fix I’ll need.
Thank you for following up
- Thread starter
- #11
I used the custom setting procedure
And during the procedure it showed empty when empty and full after you filled it?
Have you tried either of the pre-programed civic calibrations?
Have you tried either of the pre-programed civic calibrations?
Engineer8000
SILVER Star
I am not an expert on the auto meter fuel gauge, but the early FJ40 fuel sender is a voltage regulator, not a variable resistor. I assume the gauge is programmable for a range of resistances. The later FJ40 sender is a variable resistor and may work with your gauge.
- Thread starter
- #14
Yep, that may be my issue. I didn’t know that about voltage regulator on early rigs.
It sounds like I’m fighting a loosing battle.
Thank you very much
It sounds like I’m fighting a loosing battle.
Thank you very much