AC compressor replacement for 1HZ / 1HD-FT

[John Young]

We had some cooling problems in our recent long drive from Virgina to Florida in the Omani diesel 80 that came with a 1HZ and now has a 1HD-FT in it. I spoke to our own @cruisermatt and from memory he called up the Denso compressor with clutch that he's been using on 80s. I seemed to remember that there were difference in the pulley for both the alternator and the AC compressor from some of the stuff I'd seen overseas so I took some time to look more deeply into it. Glad I did. The Toyota part is available but very expensive. A new Denso unit also is available for a very reasonable price from all the local parts dealers. Thought I would document the information I found here, based on the densoproducts.com website specs, in the hopes it will save someone else some time.

Here's the unit that currently sits in the Omani diesel 80:

From what I am seeing, the Denso 447200 is sort of a base model from which a lot of specific Denso units are derived from. Could be wrong about that.

Matt referred to the Denso 471-1166, which looks like this:

Amayama pointed to a Denso 471-1141, which looks like this:

 

[John Young]

The pulley looks slightly bigger on the 471-1141 to my eye, so when I went to denso products to check the specs here's what I found:

471-1141:

471-1166:

I got all excited when I saw that the pulley was 5mm larger on the 471-1141 and immediately went and bought one at Advance Auto for a pretty good price, and then decided to share the info here.

And as I was writing this up I FINALLY noticed that the 471-1141 is for R12.

I attempted to cancel the order. Not sure if it will happen. If I get the 471-1141 and I cannot return it I might swap the clutch for the larger pulley.

So no surprise, @cruisermatt was right.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The R12 compressor may be a 10PA15 which was standard in the 1980s and early 1990s, while the R134a compressor will most likely be a 10PA17. The latter has a higher capacity (170 vs 150 cc I believe) as the R134a refrigerant is less efficient than R12. The mounting bolt spacing and clutch spigot are different between the two in my experience.

As I'm sure you know, if you run the R12 compressor you'll need to drain (I also flushed with naptha) the ND 6 (mineral) oil which it is supplied with and replace with ND 8 oil or a PAG 46 equivalent.

 

[John Young]

Sounds like you know quite a bit about this @Eurasiaoverland. Thank you for the reply and the info.

I'm trying to teach myself aircon repair. I know very little actually. I have a good vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. I know I need to replace the dryer but I'm a little usure as to whether I replace the PAG oil, or add more. I will be doing more research.

My ignorance is pretty extensive. I think I overfilled it with a simple parts store gauge and 18 oz. canister of R134a while on the road. So I let some out at home using the my 2-gauge manifold. At about 2000 RPM I was getting about 250-275 on the high side and 50-55 on the low side, which led me to conclude that the compressor was not working very well and needed to be replaced.

I called up Advance Auto and attempted to cancel the R12 compressor. Good news is that they told me I could simply return it to the local store if they do end up sending it.

Aircon is so easy in the Middle East. It is critical there so there are AC shops everywhere and very cheap. On my current projects I'm replacing the AC compressor as a matter of course. The Omani diesel did not get that while it was worked on before I shipped it. Aircon was serviced a couple of times and worked pretty well.

Another thing I need to look at is the rear aircon. The swich setup above the rear passenger seat seems to have gotten busted up, and sadly it is unobtanium so I have to see if I can repair it.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Sounds like you know quite a bit about this @Eurasiaoverland. Thank you for the reply and the info.

I'm trying to teach myself aircon repair. I know very little actually. I have a good vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. I know I need to replace the dryer but I'm a little usure as to whether I replace the PAG oil, or add more. I will be doing more research.

My ignorance is pretty extensive. I think I overfilled it with a simple parts store gauge and 18 oz. canister of R134a while on the road. So I let some out at home using the my 2-gauge manifold. At about 2000 RPM I was getting about 250-275 on the high side and 50-55 on the low side, which led me to conclude that the compressor was not working very well and needed to be replaced.

I called up Advance Auto and attempted to cancel the R12 compressor. Good news is that they told me I could simply return it to the local store if they do end up sending it.

Aircon is so easy in the Middle East. It is critical there so there are AC shops everywhere and very cheap. On my current projects I'm replacing the AC compressor as a matter of course. The Omani diesel did not get that while it was worked on before I shipped it. Aircon was serviced a couple of times and worked pretty well.

Another think I need to look at is the rear aircon. The swich setup above the rear passenger seat seems to have gotten busted up, and sadly it is unobtanium so I have to see if I can repair it.

I'm absolutely not an expert on AC, sorry. I just spent a lot of time looking at the different generations of compressor as my current project vehicle (1989 BJ60) would have had a 10PA15 and the transplanted engine (1994 15B-T from a Mega Cruiser) would (if Mega Cruisers came with AC, which the military versions of course did not) have had a 10PA17, and all the hardware is different between the two.

The model type should be stamped into the label on the back of your compressor, but unfortunately it does not show in your photo. I would have expected it to be a 10PA17 on a 1HZ or 1HD, but I see a '15' cast into the body which (I think) indicates otherwise. If it is a 10PA15 then the 471-1141 might indeed be your replacement.

 

[PBcuiser]

to get the AC working on my 1HZ swap I used an 3fe compressor, 10PA15C I believe. I believe the body on the 10PA17 is longer and wouldn’t have allowed the pulley to line up properly.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Some of the compressors will be the same body, but different clutch pulley offset.

Years ago, I bought a bundle of 3 denso compressor on ebay. The compressors turned out to be all the same, but different pulleys

 

[TheBussman]

I bought 471-1166 first and it did NOT fit my 1hdt, pulley too far forward, attempted to switch the clutch with the old one and it was even FURTHER forward. i just put 471-1141 in my 1hdt w/r134a this weekend, drained all the oil it came with and put PAG in, available from local suppliers for a good price, exact match to what was on it before. supposed to fit fj62, 89-94 4cyl pickup and 01 kia sportage? Blowing 40 degrees for me now. you may have a different bracket then i do though, if you can use the bigger compressor even better.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I bought 471-1141 first and it did NOT fit my 1hdt, pulley too far forward, attempted to switch the clutch with the old one and it was even FURTHER forward. i just put 471-1141 in my 1hdt w/r134a this weekend, drained all the oil it came with and put PAG in, available from local suppliers for a good price, exact match to what was on it before. supposed to fit fj62, 89-94 4cyl pickup and 01 kia sportage? Blowing 40 degrees for me now. you may have a different bracket then i do though, if you can use the bigger compressor even better.

Maybe I'm missing somthing, but I think you mixed the numbers up there. Did 471-1141 fit or not? Did you get a picture of the model label on th back?

 

[John Young]

Maybe I'm missing somthing, but I think you mixed the numbers up there. Did 471-1141 fit or not? Did you get a picture of the model label on th back?

I live most of my life in a mixed-up state.

Fortunately I realized in time to cancel my order that the 471-1141 was for R12 refrigerant and was able to order the 471-1166, which is the unit for R134A. It came yesterday and tomorrow I will post photos side by side with what is in the truck, but I think I am on the right track.

 

[TheBussman]

Maybe I'm missing somthing, but I think you mixed the numbers up there. Did 471-1141 fit or not? Did you get a picture of the model label on th back?

yes i did get mixed up. it's fixed now, 471-1141 does fit and works good despite being an "r-12" compressor.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

yes i did get mixed up. it's fixed now, 471-1141 does fit and works good despite being an "r-12" compressor.

Thanks for the update. Would you be able to check the label and see if its a 10PA15 or 10PA17?

 

[TheBussman]

Thanks for the update. Would you be able to check the label and see if its a 10PA15 or 10PA17?

its a 10pa15

 

[TheBussman]

I live most of my life in a mixed-up state.

Fortunately I realized in time to cancel my order that the 471-1141 was for R12 refrigerant and was able to order the 471-1166, which is the unit for R134A. It came yesterday and tomorrow I will post photos side by side with what is in the truck, but I think I am on the right track.

471-1166 is 10pa17, you currently have a 10pa15. hopefully the new one fits and you'll have an upgrade.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Interesting that they were fitting the 10PA15 even after the transition to R134a, and great price on those over there.

 

[John Young]

The pulley is different:

The pulley on the truck is 146mm

The pulley that came with the 471-1166 is 134mm

The body of the new compressor looks to be the same dimensions pretty close to the existing:

But the pulley does not line up with the belt position:

Does anyone happen to know how hard it is to swap the pulley on these things? Do I just use a gear puller?

And it appears that the 1166 compressor is a PA17 from the casting and the existing one is a PA15. I hope the shaft is the same on the two.

 

[TheBussman]

The pulley is different:

The pulley on the truck is 146mm
View attachment 4150937

The pulley that came with the 471-1166 is 134mm
View attachment 4150938

The body of the new compressor looks to be the same dimensions pretty close to the existing:
View attachment 4150939
But the pulley does not line up with the belt position:
View attachment 4150940

Does anyone happen to know how hard it is to swap the pulley on these things? Do I just use a gear puller?

And it appears that the 1166 compressor is a PA17 from the casting and the existing one is a PA15. I hope the shaft is the same on the two.

its very easy, just a bolt and then a clip under that no puller needed. there may or may not be shims setting the air gap HOWEVER if one compressor is longer then the other it may or may not work. you have to verify the correct air gap and shim accordingly when going back together.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I would say that's not going to work. Your existing compressor has more of a 'nose'. Have you verified that the top and bottom pairs of mounting bolt holes are the same distance centre to centre? And that the front bolt hole to contact face on the front of the compressor are the same?

 

[John Young]

I would say that's not going to work. Your existing compressor has more of a 'nose'. Have you verified that the top and bottom pairs of mounting bolt holes are the same distance centre to centre? And that the front bolt hole to contact face on the front of the compressor are the same?

I will take those measurements. Good thing I have a mill and a welder. I do want to go for the more modern compressor. Right now I am reworking my vacuum pump and manifold setup before pulling the compressor.

My son and I were mocking up the setup today.

I've been working up my own little AC service cart.

That is a laboratory-grade vacuum pump from some national lab in Maryland originally. And heavy.

It was fun building it:

 

[John Young]

Ok so after a lot of fooling around I have made some progress and some mysteries remain... A lot of delay was hesitation on my part to actually pulling the old compressor apart and figuring out the pulleys and so on.

I tried refiling and I could occasionally get some cooliing. Strangely the cool box seemed to work most of the time. And the rear AC worked some of the time.

Then I tried evacuating the system with my handy-dandy setup:

I even had the assistance of an able assistant to track the weights.

All to no avail.

Basically I could never get the low pressure anywhere close to what the FSM calls for with a reasonable amount of R134A in the system.

I would fill it up and the high pressure was pretty uniformly high in the 200 PSI range and with the compressor running I would never get below about 30 PSI on the low side. Usually it was 35-55 on the low side with the engine running at around 2K RPM.

I even wrote into @cruisermatt and @OTRAMM on their Sunday "Click and Clack"-style Cruiser Chat show (which if you have not tuned in, you should) to ask for advice.

And then I kinda mulled over it for a few days.