Abs light (1 Viewer)

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My abs light came on today , so I stopped vehicle turned off ignition then re started vehicle and I’ve driven 50miles and no light and no fault codes , any ideas
 
If you also heard the brake alarm. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Make sure to read "how to" on the reservoir. After checking level. During first time turning IG key to on, after pumping pedal 40 time IG key off. Time how long the brake booster pump motor runs. 30 to 40 seconds is spec.

If no alarm heard. You may have had some engine or transmission issue or perhaps a wheel speeds sensor set it off. If wheel bearing to loose, it can also set off ABS, usually in a turn. The system is designed to shut down the ABS, if any operation issues comes up.

Scan for codes pending in tech stream.
 
If you also heard the brake alarm. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Make sure to read "how to" on the reservoir. After checking level. During first time turning IG key to on, after pumping pedal 40 time IG key off. Time how long the brake booster pump motor runs. 30 to 40 seconds is spec.

If no alarm heard. You may have had some engine or transmission issue or perhaps a wheel speeds sensor set it off. If wheel bearing to loose, it can also set off ABS, usually in a turn. The system is designed to shut down the ABS, if any operation issues comes up.

Scan for codes pending in tech stream.
Thanks no alarms
 
Make sure your brake alarm works.

Test brake alarm:
With IG key set to on, pump brake pedal rapidly and hard. Usual after 5 to 8 pumps, than alarm will sound off.
 
If the fluid is a little on the low side, it can trigger the light intermittently with no alarm. But yeah, you definitely want to find any brake fluid leaks if thats the cause. So at the minimum, check the fluid properly (after shutting off the engine and pumping brakes 40+ times), top off if necessary, check each wheel for dripping fluid, monitor fluid level a few days, etc.
In order to get your ABS codes, you will need something better than the standard OBDII reader. I use the bootlegged Techstream on my laptop, available on the forum.
 
If the fluid is a little on the low side, it can trigger the light intermittently with no alarm. But yeah, you definitely want to find any brake fluid leaks if thats the cause. So at the minimum, check the fluid properly (after shutting off the engine and pumping brakes 40+ times), top off if necessary, check each wheel for dripping fluid, monitor fluid level a few days, etc.
In order to get your ABS codes, you will need something better than the standard OBDII reader. I use the bootlegged Techstream on my laptop, available on the forum.
I have techstream at home but thanks
 
So if brake fluid level good and booster run time good, and no alarm sounded off. It may be other than brakes issue. So you "should" (not for sure) be safe to drive. But read the codes ASAP. Look at pending codes dealing with brake pressure.

The brake booster motor can have dead spot on commutator, and run intermittently. Alarm should sound in this case, indicating pressure drop below preset point. Pressure drops if booster system malfunction or fluid to low from a leak. If fluid very low, than a change in momentum or vehicle attitude (braking, turning, ascending or descending hills) can run pump dry momentary. The alarm with warning lights, indicate a pressure drop. Once vehicle back to a neutral position, fluid settle back at bottom of reservoir and pressure may returns. But air likely now in system, which will give spongy brake pedal feel. These are very dangerous condition. As brake pedal may then go to the floor, if pressure drop to much in the system. One not so dangerous condition is: A old weak seal(s) in the system, like in master or caliper. Which can yield a pressure drop. That happens most often when cold OAT. As rubber seals shrink in the cold, then warm with use.

Knowing if you were braking or in a turn at the time light came on can be revealing.
 
So if brake fluid level good and booster run time good, and no alarm sounded off. It may be other than brakes issue. So you "should" (not for sure) be safe to drive. But read the codes ASAP. Look at pending codes dealing with brake pressure.

The brake booster motor can have dead spot on commutator, and run intermittently. Alarm should sound in this case, indicating pressure drop below preset point. Pressure drops if booster system malfunction or fluid to low from a leak. If fluid very low, than a change in momentum or vehicle attitude (braking, turning, ascending or descending hills) can run pump dry momentary. The alarm with warning lights, indicate a pressure drop. Once vehicle back to a neutral position, fluid settle back at bottom of reservoir and pressure may returns. But air likely now in system, which will give spongy brake pedal feel. These are very dangerous condition. As brake pedal may then go to the floor, if pressure drop to much in the system. One not so dangerous condition is: A old weak seal(s) in the system, like in master or caliper. Which can yield a pressure drop. That happens most often when cold OAT. As rubber seals shrink in the cold, then warm with use.

Knowing if you were braking or in a turn at the time light came on can be revealing.
As far as I know not braking and not hard turning
 
My best guess is loose wheel bearings. I had a similar intermittent issue for a few weeks and found out the bearings were a little loose. That has solved my problem and a cheap and easy thing to check
 

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