Your guess is as good as mine, I have an A442F on my TLC and it is a 1995 without ABS
A442F downshifting lag
- Thread starter Catchsash
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just went out to take this pic...sorry, need to clean the TLC more...
Also, if anybody could tell me what the other numbers mean...I know (so far) that the K295 means it came with no diff locks (obvious) but the 1A6 FN10 have no clue or the A11...my guess is that at least one of those is for the car colour...
Also, if anybody could tell me what the other numbers mean...I know (so far) that the K295 means it came with no diff locks (obvious) but the 1A6 FN10 have no clue or the A11...my guess is that at least one of those is for the car colour...
@beno could likely decipher that for you.
Some googling indicates A11 means it was built in the Honsya plant in Japan. 1A6 = Moonglow pearl color.
- Thread starter
- #25
@panamacruiser vin plate says A442F it does not have OD switch, mine is a Japanese spec and it's does have a tranny port in the hood, but I am not getting the rite connector to read codes. I am guessing it does come with solenoids and wondering if it's the valve that is body causing some troubles (guessing). It has PRN32L
A442F with no O/D or ECT buttons is a fully hydraulic model, no solenoids to go bad.
Ahhh ok. Full hydraulic.
Does your truck have cruise control?
The diagnostic port in the engine bay could be used for that. No tranny computer or tps.
Does your truck have cruise control?
The diagnostic port in the engine bay could be used for that. No tranny computer or tps.
I'd make sure the kickdown cable was adjusted per the FSM for the early non-electronic A442F ('90-'92), but that doesn't explain the noise you're hearing. I'd get someone you really trust to get in the car and stand on the brakes with it in gear so it makes the noise, and you poke around with the hood open, listen under the truck (dont' do anything dangerous) and see if you can tell if the noise is from the engine (top or bottom end), or the transmission. The flexplate is where the 2 join, and it's possible it was damaged when you had your engine replaced after the rebuild, who knows.
You didn't specify what you meant by it wanting to move forward while you're stopped and in gear, could you elaborate on that?
You didn't specify what you meant by it wanting to move forward while you're stopped and in gear, could you elaborate on that?
- Thread starter
- #32
Ok the update:
Tried playing with the kickdown cable (did not know it was that sensitive) driving a little better now, also testing driving like a manual car now, so it shifts pretty well.
Lag issues are mostly in lower rpms and slow speeds, took it to the highway over the weekend and it was driving very well on long stretches
SO conclusion the issue is in initial drive mode, I am guessing may the clutch or torque convertor i don't know :-/
Tried playing with the kickdown cable (did not know it was that sensitive) driving a little better now, also testing driving like a manual car now, so it shifts pretty well.
Lag issues are mostly in lower rpms and slow speeds, took it to the highway over the weekend and it was driving very well on long stretches
SO conclusion the issue is in initial drive mode, I am guessing may the clutch or torque convertor i don't know :-/
So, when you adjusted the kickdown cable, you got it to improve a bit? Which way did you adjust it? I ended up tightening mine quite a bit to get it to shift down correctly.
As for lurching/clunking... I'm not sure. You did check to make sure that your transmission fluid is topped off, right? (Guys correct me if I'm wrong on this) Typically, you check the transmission fluid when it's warm and the engine is running. If you check when the engine is turned off, you might think you have enough but actually you might be running low. (that's how it is with old Jeeps anyway...)
As for lurching/clunking... I'm not sure. You did check to make sure that your transmission fluid is topped off, right? (Guys correct me if I'm wrong on this) Typically, you check the transmission fluid when it's warm and the engine is running. If you check when the engine is turned off, you might think you have enough but actually you might be running low. (that's how it is with old Jeeps anyway...)
Transmission fluid is checked hot, engine running, slowly row through the gears and then back to P or N, and check the level against the HOT line on the dipstick.
@Catchsash if you have an auto trans, you don't have a clutch. Were you able to get a buddy and listen to see where exactly the noise is coming from?
@Catchsash if you have an auto trans, you don't have a clutch. Were you able to get a buddy and listen to see where exactly the noise is coming from?
- Thread starter
- #36
Not yet chief, will do that on the weekend. I know for a fact that my propeller shaft has a bit of play where it connects with the star, but the noise I am mentioning is pretty much while shifting from 3 to D
I don't understand this... when do you shift from 3 to d? Are you manually shifting this auto transmission?
Oh, I get it now. Did you have a chance to check your transmission fluid level, with a hot trans and your rig running? Your symptoms sound similar to low fluid to me. If it's not that, I wonder if you have an issue with your torque converter or have some sort of blockage in a line...