A proposal for the efficient order of Baselining your 80 series

[texdoc77]

I have a 1995 LC and my son recently bought a 1997 LC. For his 21st birthday I offered to buy him front lights, chaser lights, or purchase the items he would need to baseline the LC. He wisely chose to baseline the LC. We did it all this weekend and while it is fresh in my mind I thought I might put down the order we did things and some tips and tricks. For example it is nice to do "X" when you have "Y" removed and have better access. That kind of thing. I am not a mechanic and have now only done this twice. There might be things we did that were dumb and there is a better way to do it.

A list of tools you might not have but would be useful/necessary

• Clamp pliers
• Hose picks
• Big, I mean big breaker bar with 3/4” drive
• Torque wrench for up to 304ft/lbs (maybe could be rented)
• Harmonic Balancer tool for removal, special made and can be found on iH8mud
• Flexible extension for 3/8” driver
• 90 degree extension for 3/8” driver
• Timing light
• #3 JIS bits
• Non marring scrapers
• Wire brushes, plastic brushes and a gallon of degreaser
• Bolt penetrator/rust remover, about two gallons
• Lots and Lots of patience and self-acceptance

Some advice before you begin

• I used Toyota parts wherever I could
• Use the Toyota hose clamps/clips to make it easy on yourself, they come held open to slip them on, then simply pull off the tab and voila, they are in place and the right tension. Do NOT confuse them with the medieval torture device that is the tension clamp with cotter pin. I would have words with the person who invented those.
• Use Zip loc baggies and a black marker to organize your bolts/nuts etc. that you remove. YOU WILL NOT REMEMBER WHERE THE BOLTS/NUTS GO. Label them, no matter how short of a time you think they will be off the vehicle. Trust me.
• Have separate areas for your new parts, your removed parts and a place to set tools you are using for the moment. I have a roller cart for that, makes it easy to find what you need.
• Do not throw any “old” parts away until you are completely done. Keep parts that were not defective but were replaced as a spare.
• You WILL run into unforeseen obstacles. Items I went through in a breeze may for some reason be difficult for you. Items I struggled with, you may not.

Parts List

1​	1610069325​	PUMP ASSY, ENGINE WATER	Toyota	1​
2​	1118350010​	PLUG, SEMICIRCULAR	Toyota	2​
3​	1226266021​	HOSE, VENTILATION, NO.2	Toyota	1​
4​	9046720002​	CLIP OR CLAMP(FOR VENTILATION HOSE)	Toyota	2​
5​	1226166021​	HOSE, VENTILATION	Toyota	1​
6​	9046714001​	CLIP	Toyota	2​
7​	9046743002​	CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET)	Toyota	2​
8​	9046641008​	CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER HOSE)	Toyota	4​
9​	9091603117​	THERMOSTAT	Toyota	1​
10​	1634666020​	GASKET, THERMOSTAT	Toyota	1​
11​	1657366010​	HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.3	Toyota	1​
12​	1626466021​	HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.2	Toyota	1​
13​	9613551300​	CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR FUEL HOSE NO.1)	Toyota	6​
14​	9955510200​	HOSE(FOR WATER BY-PASS PIPE NO.4)	Toyota	1​
15​	1626166040​	HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.1	Toyota	1​
16​	1626766020​	HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.3	Toyota	1​
17​	9046713128​	CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR WATER BY-PASS HOSE NO.2)	Toyota	2​
18​	1657166030​	HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.1	Toyota	1​
19​	9046721010​	CLAMP OR CLIP (FOR WATER HOSE)	Toyota	16​
20​	8724060170​	VALVE ASSY, HEATER WATER	Toyota	1​
21​	1578566010​	GASKET, OIL COOLER	Toyota	1​
22​	2227166010​	GASKET, THROTTLE BODY	Toyota	1​
23​	1121366021​	GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD COVER	Toyota	1​
24​	1119315010​	GASKET(FOR SPARK PLUG TUBE)	Toyota	6​
25​	1220435040​	VALVE SUB-ASSY, VENTILATION	Toyota	1​
26​	9048018001​	GROMMET(FOR VENTILATION SYSTEM)	Toyota	1​
27​	8724560480​	HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET B	Toyota	1​
28​	1657266021​	HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.2	Toyota	1​
29​	1518366020​	SCREW	Toyota	7​
30​	1518866020​	GASKET, OIL PUMP	Toyota	1​
31​	1910166010​	CAP SUB-ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR	Toyota	1​
32​	1910261240​	ROTOR SUB-ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR	Toyota	1​
33​	1912766020​	PACKING, DUST PROOF	Toyota	1​
34​	9009914118​	RING, O, DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING	Toyota	1​
35​	9043027001​	GASKET, ENGINE OIL LEVEL SENSOR	Toyota	1​
36​	9099992003​	HOSE,VACUUM	Toyota	3​
37​	2330069045​	FILTER, FUEL(FOR EFI)	Toyota	1​
38​	2328075010​	REGULATOR ASSY, FUEL PRESSURE	Toyota	1​
39​	9533406010​	HOSE, FUEL	Toyota	1​
40​	9613551100​	CLAMP OR CLIP (FOR WATER HOSE)	Toyota	2​
41​	9031152022​	SEAL, OIL(FOR TIMING CHAIN OR BELT COVER)	Toyota	1​
42​	9091921557​	CORD SET, COIL & SPARK, W/RESISTIVE	Toyota	1​

Also
Alternator Upgrade Kit from Landtank Products with upgraded belts

Upgraded Fan Clutch from Landtank Products

Heater bypass Hose kit from Land Cruiser Products

 

[texdoc77]

Order of Installation

• Put blocks behind rear tires
• Jack up front driver side and remove front driver tire. Place axle on jack stand, do not leave it on jack
• Find coolant bolt in block on driver side, now accessible with removal of tire
• Drain coolant, have lots of buckets, it's messy. They make a plug that helps with this, I did not have it. Remove radiator cap for a faster messier situation.
• Remove battery and battery tray
• Remove front grill so you can access radiator bolts.
• I also removed several bolts from headlights to scoot them around a bit to better access the radiator bolts. May be a better way to do this, I have not found it yet.
• Now that all the coolant has drained clean it up with towels and what not. Toss the inch or two that actually made it into your bucket in an appropriate waste disposal.
• Remove radiator hose #1 (top of radiator, driver side), get you some hose clamp pliers, really just do it, you will use them ALL THE TIME, also get some hose picks, you will use them ALL THE TIME
• Remove Radiator hose # 3 from bottom passenger side of radiator
• Disconnect transmission cooler hoses from bottom of radiator, there are two, they drip a little, either wrap the ends with something or let them drip a little.
• Remove water bypass hose #3 from top of radiator along with reservoir tube just next to the cap
• unscrew fan shroud from two bolts at the top, but do not remove it yet, you have to remove the fan blade/clutch
• Remove the 4 screws that bolt the fan to the fan pulley to the water pump
• Remove fan shroud and fan all at the same time, not sure if there is another way to do this. The fan shroud has tabs at the bottom that require a little bit of rear vehicle movement from the top to remove
• Remove both side bolts from the radiator
• Remove both front bolts from the radiator that you made room to access with removal of grill and some headlight screws/bolts
• Gently remove radiator being careful of fins and that little knob where you attach water bypass hose #3. If you break that knob, you get to buy a new radiator, you might want to anyway, but you won't have a choice if you break it.
• Release tension on alternator/fan belts with alternator tension bolt
• Release tension under the car for compressor belt (passenger side)
• Remove water pump pulley and belts
• Remove compressor belts
• Remove harmonic balancer. I bought a 36” ¾” drive breaker bar that fits into the harmonic balancer tool that is sold by a member on this site. I also bought a torque wrench that would torque to the specified 304 ft/lbs. Finally I bought a deep socket (if it is not sufficiently deep it will rub against the breaker bar) 30mm impact socket with ¾” drive to fit the torque wrench. Don’t try it with a ½” to ¾” impact adapter, I broke mine and almost put my eye out. With these items removal of the harmonic balancer is relatively easy. Many use the bump start method, I did not. Pull straight back on the harmonic balancer and it should give. I usually give some light taps with the rubber mallet to help “unstick” it.
• Remove front main seal, replace with new front main seal. When you press it in try to do it as evenly as possible, use some oil to help it slip in easier.
• Remove 4 bolts and 1 nut on water pump and replace with new water pump.
• Remove flat pulley over oil pump
• Remove oil pump cover with #3 JIS bit. They are difficult to remove and I ended up going through several bits. Do your best not to strip them. If they will not come out take a 1/16th drill bit and drill directly into the middle and try again. This worked for me. I used a battery powered impact driver with success.
• Wipe down and inspect oil pump. Place new gasket in indentation, use a little oil to keep it from falling out. Replace cover and use NEW screws. Some like the allen heads, I used the #3 JIS, pick your poison. Reinstall flat pulley over oil pump.
• Remove the lid for the air filter, it will be attached to a large plastic pipe that attaches to the throttle body. There is an electric connector here as well that needs to be removed. Release the ring clamps and GENTLY twist and remove the plastic pipe from the throttle body.
• Remove various vacuum hoses, vent hoses and fuel hoses from the throttle body as well as electric connectors. Do NOT remove these hoses/lines from their origin, it will be VERY helpful later to keep them in place now.
• Remove the two upper bolts and the two lower bolts from the throttle body and place them in a marked baggie. Remove the throttle body but be careful, it is still connected by throttle cables so you will never fully remove it from the engine bay. Set it aside and remove the metal throttle body gasket. Pay special attention to bypass hose #1 on the underside of the TB when you remove it. You will want to replace this hose while doing the PHH here in a little bit, but it is hard to see from below so make a note in your mind what it looks like from above.
• Remove fire wall heater hoses. These are the hoses around the thermostat, hoses on the driver side firewall and hoses on the passenger side firewall. Be gentle when removing them, not the hoses but the metal, especially the metal coming out of the fire wall.
• Remove two bolts that hold wires running across the top of the heater thermostat and pull out slightly to access the two bolts that hold the thermostat to the firewall. Make sure the heater is “off” prior to unsnapping the cable that runs to the thermostat and unhooking the hook that operates the lever on the thermostat.
• Remove black plastic wire covers on top of valve cover
• Unscrew and remove spark plug cords and wire keepers, they all kind of come out at the same time
• At the distributor remove spark wires, the new distributor cap and wire harness are all labeled so no need to do this.
• Remove 13 valve cover bolts, the one on the driver side closest to the firewall is hardest to access, good luck, I used a 90 degree head on a driver that helped
• Pull straight up on the valve cover to remove it, not as easy as it sounds, but much easier with the removal of all those hoses. You may consider cleaning off the valve cover and lip prior to removal if you think you have a lot of dirt that you don’t want getting into the valves, cover the head with plastic or a towel
• There is a metal heater pipe that dives down near the fire wall on the driver side and underneath to the block. There is a hose that connects this pipe to the block. It is hard to access, I would go so far as to say it is pesky.
• This metal hose is held in place with two bolts, one easily accessible and one further down the pipe. Remove the top one, then move on to the second one. Some cut this piece of the pipe to make it easier to remove. I have, lets say spindly extremities, and was able to remove the bolt without much fuss. I also reused this pipe rather than some other PHH repairs that use a long length of tube. But that is an option, especially if you don’t have the valve cover removed.
• Go down to the underside of the vehicle and situate yourself where the tire you removed would be. Using one of those hose picks unwind the clamp from where the hose meets the block. Remove the clamp. Now get a hose pick that points back at you and pierce the hose to get a good grip and pull. Be safe. Use that pick to break the bond between the hose and the block if need be. Finally if you can’t pull it see if you can get a knife up there and just cut the hose off.
• I purchased my replacement from from phhkit.com, it is a blue silicone hose with two constant torque clamps. With your metal pipe free attach one end to the new blue hose with supplied torque clamp then feed it from beneath or from above to get it into place. I used a zip tie connecting the pipe to the top bolt hole to prevent it from falling all the way down, but still allows some wiggle room to push it onto the block. Keep in mind which way you place the clamp on as it might go a long way in how easy or hard it is to get to and tighten. Now tighten both bolts on the pipe. If you can only tighten and/or get to the top one that should be fine.
• Pat yourself on the back, that was likely the most difficult replacement you will come across.
• Now lets replace bypass hose #1, it is easier said than done but work the clip off, pull the hose, then work the new hose on. This is one of those times the OEM clips are helpful because all you need to do is remove the retaining clip and the clip is installed. After the PHH it won’t seem so bad. Remember that it will reattach to the TB when you replace it so for now it is only attached to the block. Pay attention to orientation.
• Replace the fuel filter. It is accessed from above on the driver side down in the engine bay on the block and from below at the driver front wheel. Start by removing the fuel lines from either side of the filter. You can access the one towards the front of the vehicle from above and the one towards the rear of the vehicle from below. Now on your back and underneath the vehicle remove the two bolts that hold it to the block. The fuel filter is now free. On the new fuel filter for the block install bolt towards the passenger side, cut out that hole to make it a slip on. That way you can start that bolt without the filter being in place, then slip it on and that is quite a bit easier. Now reinstall the fuel lines making sure to replace the metal gaskets on either side of the rubber line gasket.
• Replace the coolant plug into the block
• You can now reinstall the driver front tire and get it off the jack stand
• While on this side of the vehicle and underneath go ahead and replace the oil sensor gasket, this requires the removal of the electric wiring and 4 bolts. Replace gasket and reinstall. This is another place that can create oil leaks.
• For the firewall heater hoses I purchased the rear heater bypass hose which is relatively easy to install. You can leave the inlet and outlet pipes for the rear heater (smaller pipes from the firewall on either side of the thermostat just under the main heater pipes) open, but I cap them with hose.
• Install the thermostat on the back firewall and install heater hoses/heater bypass hose. Slip the cable hook on the lever of the thermostat and clamp the cable clamp to keep it in place.
• Remove the 6 spark plug tube gaskets from the underside of the valve cover. They are brittle and break easy, be gentle and patient and you will get there. I used a hose pick to gently probe between the gasket and the cover all around slowly working it up. Takes about 15 minutes if they are in poor shape.
• Clean the cover if you like or leave it dirty. Paint it if you want, but make sure you clean the area where the spark plug gaskets were, pull out the old valve cover gasket and then remove the ventilation system valve and the grommet. The grommet will also be brittle so have some needle nose handy to pick it out of the vent assy on top of the valve cover. Replace the spark plug tube gaskets, vent assy gromment and valve.
• Pull the distributor cover off and replace the rotor. Go ahead and remove the distributor adjustment bolt to pull the distributor out of the block and replace the distributor o-ring (a common source of leakage). Rotate the harmonic balancer back to TDC and reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointing at plug #1, or 12 o’clock. Replace distributor cap with new gasket.
• You will need to reseal the semicircular plugs on the front of the valve cover. Wiggle them and pull straight up to break the seal with the sealant. I broke one of them the first time so go ahead and have spares ready. Clean and scrape the top of the head where the valve cover sits and put the semicircular plugs back in place with Toyota black FIPG oil sealant. With the timing set replace the valve cover and reinstall the 13 valve cover bolts. Spec calls for 15 ft/lbs, but that seems a little too much. I tightened down to feel and slight deformation of the valve gasket.
• Optional, upgrade the alternator. We used the 150a sequoia alternator with tensioning bracket from Landtank Products along with upgraded belts.
• Remove the old alternator and alternator bracket, charging wire (on the back of the alternator) and electric connectors. Remove the square nut and bolt from the tension bracket. You will have a new bracket but will reuse the square nut and bolt. Transfer the old pulley to the new alternator. Holding the pulley and using an impact driver makes this relatively simple. You will need to slightly widen the bracket for the new alternator to fit, but once it does replace it back, then reinstall the alternator and tension bracket.
• At this point you will want to install the belts.
• To do this reinstall the radiator, the two bolts that are installed towards the ground can be tough to line back up. Simply loosen the two bolts holding that bracket to the side of the radiator to give you a little more room, install the bolts then tighten the bracket back up. Install the forward/upper bolts and the radiator is installed.
• Now reinstall the water pump pulley and gently place the belts back in place. It will need to be gentle because you cannot tighten down the water pump pulley until you install the fan shroud, and fan clutch, so go ahead and do that now. I upgraded the fan clutch so do this here if you want, its only a matter of swapping the fan blades from one fan clutch to the other.
• In order to reinstall the fan you will need to do it simultaneously with the fan shroud (just like it came out). The fan shroud can be a little persnickety to get in just right, remember to watch the radiator fins and small plastic pipe.
• Tighten down the fan to the pulley to the water pump. Now tighten the compressor belt with the tension bolt on the underside of the compressor pulley on the passenger side. Finally, tighten the fan and alternator belts with the alternator tension bracket and tighten the main alternator screw and tension screw to keep it in place.
• Rewiring the alternator if you upgraded is simple, but there are a couple of things that were not readily apparent to me to begin with. The Landtank Products install guide does not explicitly state you will replace the stock AM1 junction box with the new one. After I figured this out the wire install went smoothly. You will also replace the fusible link with the new one and there will be TWO charge wires(the new one and the original one) from the alternator to the junction box.
• Replace the oil cooler gasket. This is easy, but does require you to remove brackets to the oil cooler line in order to do it. There are two brackets with one bolt each, remove them, replace the gasket and replace the bracket bolts.
• While you are over here go ahead and replace the coolant thermostat. There are three bolts and you might need to remove the header shroud to access one, I did. Replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket. Replace thermostat pipe with the three bolts.
• This metal pipe is attached to radiator hose # 2 which is attached to a pipe that bolts on underneath the vehicle on the passenger side. Go ahead and remove that pipe with the hose in place. Replace radiator hoses #2 and #3 at this time. These are not difficult to replace, but use coolant to make sure they snug as far up as they are supposed to. You will need to reinstall the pipe that attaches underneath (radiator pipe #7 to be exact to do this fully).
• Now replace the spark plugs and then reinstall the wiring harness and spark wire covers.
• Reinstall the throttle body keeping in mind that there is bypass hose #1 on the underside to close that loop from before. Two bolts at the top and two bolts on bottom, replace the metal gasket at this time.
• At this point replace all vacuum lines. You will have to cut them to length, which is like super easy if you have gotten to this point and have not decided to go live in a monastery in the mountains.
• Replace fuel pressure regulator
• Replace bypass hose #4 #3 and #2
• Replace ventilation hose and vent hose #2
• Replace electric wire connectors. Oddly enough I did not label these and the way they orient there is really only one way they go back together. Label them if you like.
• Replace radiator hose #1
• Refill coolant
• Reinstall battery tray and battery.
• Start engine (only if you are certain all hoses are clamped clipped and otherwise everything is back in place). I am NEVER certain, so I usually visually inspect everything twice before cranking the engine.
• IF everything was done correctly it should crank up after a second or two and run smooth. If it is VERY rough, you are likely one gear off on your distributor.
• With your timing light, (you have one right?) Set the timing to 3 degrees. Many run 5 as do I, some push it to 7. You will need a jumper cable from T1 to E1 over on the diagnostics module on the passenger side fire wall. Someone smarter than me can explain why.
• With timing now set and the engine warm go ahead and turn on the heater in the cab to make sure it gets nice and warm and to allow more coolant to circulate. Backfill as needed and check for leaks.
• You’re done, good job, now replace all liquids in the vehicle, oil, transmission oil, front and rear diff oil.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

Well done sir

 

[CharlieS]

Awesome list, and great sequence. Really awesome tech content. This will help a lot of people.

A couple of things that jumped out to me as possible additions to save hassle:

On this instruction, pinch off the transmission lines, so you don't lose atf:

• Disconnect transmission cooler hoses from bottom of radiator, there are two, they drip a little, either wrap the ends with something or let them drip a little.

I have some plier looking plastic clamps that are made for this purpose.

After loosening the fan shroud, put some sturdy cardboard between the shroud and radiator to protect the radiator fins as you remove the fan, fan clutch and water pump. (unless you plan to replace the radiator, and then fergedaboudit).

For anyone that is that far in, and wants to take it to the next level, maybe add a bonus section on removing the upper intake plenum, servicing injectors, and replacing the fuel filter. I didn't do this on my current rig and had to remove all of the parts that I had just installed to get to these.

While you're in there, replace all vacuum hoses and clean the passage that runs through the upper plenum with a drill bit.

And this may be more hassle than most people want, but doing a smoke test before you tear it apart can help inform how far you take things. That's how I found my vacuum leak on the injector seals. You can buy the machines for well under $100 on Amazon.

 

[duece71]

Great post OP, this list is one we can all reference, even the diesel crowd.

 

[60 toy ota]

If you're gonna be taking off the upper intake, definitely also plan on wrapping the harness by the EGR. **first thing to do with upper intake off is stuff clean shop rags into all 6 of the lower intake manifold ports!)
Also, with the radiator removed that's a great time to address your probably leaking High pressure power steering line.
Finally, don't even think about removing the radiator without replacing the soft lines for the transmission cooler. You'll be sorry.

 

[texdoc77]

Just a fun little update: @Cowmeat and I had a little mishap when reinstalling the fan shroud and pushed one of the transmission cooler hoses underneath creating a rub point. It only took about a week and that hose ruptured. Of course those hoses are NLA so I purchased some 3/8" ID gates transmission cooler hose. In order to push the hoses onto the metal pipe fittings I used some ATF but more than that I removed the driver side headlight to fully access the metal conduit in order to manipulate it fully which was ultimately what got the job done. I will say getting the ATF level just right was a little more onerous than anticipated but got it done and now it is running smoothly!!

 

[ChaseTruck]

If you're gonna be taking off the upper intake, …

… then I’d suggest to replace the vacuum lines.

 

[jht3]

Just a fun little update: @Cowmeat and I had a little mishap when reinstalling the fan shroud and pushed one of the transmission cooler hoses underneath creating a rub point. It only took about a week and that hose ruptured. Of course those hoses are NLA so I purchased some 3/8" ID gates transmission cooler hose. In order to push the hoses onto the metal pipe fittings I used some ATF but more than that I removed the driver side headlight to fully access the metal conduit in order to manipulate it fully which was ultimately what got the job done. I will say getting the ATF level just right was a little more onerous than anticipated but got it done and now it is running smoothly!!

yup, been there done that. assumed the new radiator had the trans hose barbs clocked properly. it did not. cut the line after ~week and left me stranded. i guess this is a right of passage. made a huge mess and replacing OE 10mm hose w/ 9.5mm (3/8") is not my idea of a fun time.

 

[cbus22]

Helpful thread... Question - Is this step referring to the heater valve?

 

[texdoc77]

Helpful thread... Question - Is this step referring to the heater valve?

View attachment 3705989

yes, yes it is. Good catch. It's interesting how much the right words matter, we mess with stuff all the time but then when it comes time to describe it in words, well sometimes they fail.