- Thread starter
- #21
Cool... do you have a thread going?
A neat picture of an LV
- Thread starter Mikesta
- Start date
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Cool... do you have a thread going?
looks great! was that bkcruisers? If not where'd it come from?
Also, did you test fit the rear doors? there was a switch in the rear door fitment between some years and they arent interchangable.
Also, did you test fit the rear doors? there was a switch in the rear door fitment between some years and they arent interchangable.
- Thread starter
- #23
No I didn't test fit. But it is from the same year wagon. But I didn't know this... where did you get this info... I cant find that info in my body manual.
I had to bring the door inside to cure because its Snowing out! Insane.
Last picture for the week probably.
Edit: yes it was Bills old cruiser
- Thread starter
- #24
Today I was able to dink around on some other projects, but I had some time to look at the damage to the drivers side exterior cowl.
I haven't taken a tape to it, but it looks like it was hit slightly hard there at one time. The door lines look good there and the same as the other side, so I think the A Pillar section is fine.
-BUT-
When I look at the drivers side of the truck its about 1/3 to 1/2 Inch off. From the bib, fender and aprons. There is a few pictures below of where the hood meets the cowl. Its about 1/3rd of an inch pushed back in comparison to the other side. Gah... I have time to process this but I have a disorder where everything needs to be symetrical.
-THEN-
I looked up at the roof. The whole roof has go to go. Looking down the side its bowed out at around the B pillar section and the rain gutter is all over the place with bends and bows and dips. Bill had done some extensive work on reparing all that rust and he did a great job but Mudmonsters roof is perfec (other than a couple dips in the roof from me putting junk up there).
-SO-
... To be continued after these pictures
I haven't taken a tape to it, but it looks like it was hit slightly hard there at one time. The door lines look good there and the same as the other side, so I think the A Pillar section is fine.
-BUT-
When I look at the drivers side of the truck its about 1/3 to 1/2 Inch off. From the bib, fender and aprons. There is a few pictures below of where the hood meets the cowl. Its about 1/3rd of an inch pushed back in comparison to the other side. Gah... I have time to process this but I have a disorder where everything needs to be symetrical.
-THEN-
I looked up at the roof. The whole roof has go to go. Looking down the side its bowed out at around the B pillar section and the rain gutter is all over the place with bends and bows and dips. Bill had done some extensive work on reparing all that rust and he did a great job but Mudmonsters roof is perfec (other than a couple dips in the roof from me putting junk up there).
-SO-
... To be continued after these pictures
- Thread starter
- #25
http://fjtoys.com/mytoys/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=5435
....
-SO-
Now I'm thinking I will cut out part of the cowl from Mudmonster and weld it on this rig (still no name). I will also cut the A/B/C/D pillars out on both rigs and do the swap.
I will think this through for 3-4 weeks till I do this but I am definitely open for suggestions.
Now to top it all off.... check these pictures out. Not the same Lids... at least in the front part. The rear lid is the same with a slope. The front on Mudmonster has the slope, but the front of the new rig doesn't. Its just a drip rail there. Now Mudmonster is a 1966. The New LV is a 1967.
There are tons of pictures here showing this
....
-SO-
Now I'm thinking I will cut out part of the cowl from Mudmonster and weld it on this rig (still no name). I will also cut the A/B/C/D pillars out on both rigs and do the swap.
I will think this through for 3-4 weeks till I do this but I am definitely open for suggestions.
Now to top it all off.... check these pictures out. Not the same Lids... at least in the front part. The rear lid is the same with a slope. The front on Mudmonster has the slope, but the front of the new rig doesn't. Its just a drip rail there. Now Mudmonster is a 1966. The New LV is a 1967.
There are tons of pictures here showing this
cool truck for sure!!
- Thread starter
- #29
Comon Landpimp... it just needs a little love.
Here is the test Fitment (is that a word?) of the door... It fits pretty good with 2 bolts adjusting it in.
Here is the test Fitment (is that a word?) of the door... It fits pretty good with 2 bolts adjusting it in.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #30
Gah, So much for the picture up above being the last picture for the week. Monday and I had to spend a couple hours on the rig.
A. Tore apart the old Right rear door. I'll do something with the parts later on. The door is in great shape... no dings, dents or rust anywhere up above the curved part of the door. It really wouldn't take much to make this door whole again. Its as straight as the door above with primer. So I threw it in the cabinet and blasted all the rust away from rot thru area.
B. Blasted the old hinges from Mudmonster. They came out perty.
C. Took of the front passenger door and took it completely apart as well (boxing and labeling as I go).
D. Fitted Mudmonster's door on. Fits like a glove.
Some findings and thoughts for the day:
1. If your looking to fix your rear ribs, find a door somewhere with ribs that are in great condition. They are the same size and spacing on the door as on the ribs. If you take 2 front doors, you will pretty much have the rear rib section. Of course you will have to cut and weld the end pieces to the correct size.
A. The rib sizes on the rear quarters in length are:
1. Top row - 29"
2. 2nd row - 26 1/4
3. 3rd row - 24 1/4
4. 4th row - 22 1/4
B. The rib sizes on the rear doors are:
1. Top row - 21 1/2
2. 2nd row - 18 1/8
3. 3rd row - 16 1/2
4. 4th row - 15
* I'll post the front door sizes later tomorrow... but there are pictures in the gallery at FJtoys.com! FJ45LV FZJ80 FJ55 FJ45 FJ80 FJ60 if you want to check them out... You would only need a Front door to do all the work for a rib pannel. However you would have to straighten them out some as they are sligthly curved.
2. When you bugger up a screw. Hit it with a hammer pretty hard, but not hard enought to indent the metal. Then use a Cresent wrecnch on the end of the screwdriver to apply pressure as you turn the screw. Works like a charm.
I am dredding cutting all the Pillars and replacing the roof. That will be the biggest job. I'm thinking about cutting all the pillars close to the bottom. Bull if your still up for some heavy lifting that will be the day.
Thats it. ON with the house remodel now.
A. Tore apart the old Right rear door. I'll do something with the parts later on. The door is in great shape... no dings, dents or rust anywhere up above the curved part of the door. It really wouldn't take much to make this door whole again. Its as straight as the door above with primer. So I threw it in the cabinet and blasted all the rust away from rot thru area.
B. Blasted the old hinges from Mudmonster. They came out perty.
C. Took of the front passenger door and took it completely apart as well (boxing and labeling as I go).
D. Fitted Mudmonster's door on. Fits like a glove.
Some findings and thoughts for the day:
1. If your looking to fix your rear ribs, find a door somewhere with ribs that are in great condition. They are the same size and spacing on the door as on the ribs. If you take 2 front doors, you will pretty much have the rear rib section. Of course you will have to cut and weld the end pieces to the correct size.
A. The rib sizes on the rear quarters in length are:
1. Top row - 29"
2. 2nd row - 26 1/4
3. 3rd row - 24 1/4
4. 4th row - 22 1/4
B. The rib sizes on the rear doors are:
1. Top row - 21 1/2
2. 2nd row - 18 1/8
3. 3rd row - 16 1/2
4. 4th row - 15
* I'll post the front door sizes later tomorrow... but there are pictures in the gallery at FJtoys.com! FJ45LV FZJ80 FJ55 FJ45 FJ80 FJ60 if you want to check them out... You would only need a Front door to do all the work for a rib pannel. However you would have to straighten them out some as they are sligthly curved.
2. When you bugger up a screw. Hit it with a hammer pretty hard, but not hard enought to indent the metal. Then use a Cresent wrecnch on the end of the screwdriver to apply pressure as you turn the screw. Works like a charm.
I am dredding cutting all the Pillars and replacing the roof. That will be the biggest job. I'm thinking about cutting all the pillars close to the bottom. Bull if your still up for some heavy lifting that will be the day.
Thats it. ON with the house remodel now.
Mike,
Enjoy your build and your courage.
I have a curiosity question since I don't own an LV.
Your doors have slots where the hinges enter.
How do you seal out water there?
Reason I ask: on the 40s and 45 pickups, the door hinges have a factory-molded-on rubber seal. No one seems to sell a replacement rubber seal, so either the old rubber seals get brittle, powder coating the old hinges melts off the existing rubber, or the new chrome hinges do not come with rubber seals.
New hinges are real pricey. I was told to squirt on some silicone around the entrance points.
Ever heard of a neater solution?
Thx.
Enjoy your build and your courage.
I have a curiosity question since I don't own an LV.
Your doors have slots where the hinges enter.
How do you seal out water there?
Reason I ask: on the 40s and 45 pickups, the door hinges have a factory-molded-on rubber seal. No one seems to sell a replacement rubber seal, so either the old rubber seals get brittle, powder coating the old hinges melts off the existing rubber, or the new chrome hinges do not come with rubber seals.
New hinges are real pricey. I was told to squirt on some silicone around the entrance points.
Ever heard of a neater solution?
Thx.
- Thread starter
- #32
Honestly, I haven't gotten that far... but funny you should ask because I was thinking the same thing last night as I test fit the front door. I have leftovers from a sun baked rubber seal that I'd like to see reproduced. Its not really made up of much. I'll try to get a picture up later on. Silicone would work... the trick is to wet your finger before you smoo**** down. I'd get black silicone to reproduce the same look, or simular look with the LV.
If you do a search a gentleman on here had the reproduced and was selling them. I picked up a set
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks Bull... searched and sent a PM to him.. Hopefully he will respond soon so I can send funds.
Today I got some done on my lunch hour. I'm really sick, cough cough... but had to tear the new door apart.
Broke 2 screws on the Vent window assembly. Gah! Started to blast the door some as well, but my media that I put in is too dusty so I'll go with some heavier grit when I blast again. Its getting warm so I might get the 125lb pot out on the driveway for quicker results.
WAAKFJ, I was rereading this post and noticed you asked for the blasting cabinet I'm using. Sorry but I missed that before. It is a 48 x 48 x 48 cabinet. If you search for Herculeze or some spelling of that, you'll see the actual cabinet. Its pretty large. So large that I can fit a Tailgate in it and any FJ door. I scored on it. Paid 1/5th its worth on craigslist and had to have a tiltbed tow truck deliver it. Thats how big it was heh! But the 125 drop pot I have is actually better, but it needs to be used outside in good weather and it too only lasts 5 minutes on an 80 gallon tank full of air before you need to let it recharge.
Anyways, back to the LV.
1. The Front passenger side door needs some work. While there is no rust, there are a couple of indents in the lower part of the inner door. There is also a indent where the grab handle goes... .right below where the window meets the door. (BUMMER).
2. I found the other 1/2 section of the doorstop that someone purchased. I know he's lurking, so if your out there... I'll ship it to you if you'll pay for the ride... even though it wasnt included in the sale, I feel it belongs to you.
3. I've noticed the the sill is pretty rough. While the floors are good, the sill needs some patch work. I have a friend (Basher) who has a bunch of presses and benders. I hope to take him up on the use of it so I can get this all patched up.
4. Guys, I'm having a very hard time keeping this LV together. I really want to powercoat the frame and work up!!!! But it stays together.
Here are some pictures. Check my gallery if you want to see them all. Everytime I post 3 pictures here... there is at least 30-50 on the gallery.
Cheers.
Today I got some done on my lunch hour. I'm really sick, cough cough... but had to tear the new door apart.
Broke 2 screws on the Vent window assembly. Gah! Started to blast the door some as well, but my media that I put in is too dusty so I'll go with some heavier grit when I blast again. Its getting warm so I might get the 125lb pot out on the driveway for quicker results.
WAAKFJ, I was rereading this post and noticed you asked for the blasting cabinet I'm using. Sorry but I missed that before. It is a 48 x 48 x 48 cabinet. If you search for Herculeze or some spelling of that, you'll see the actual cabinet. Its pretty large. So large that I can fit a Tailgate in it and any FJ door. I scored on it. Paid 1/5th its worth on craigslist and had to have a tiltbed tow truck deliver it. Thats how big it was heh! But the 125 drop pot I have is actually better, but it needs to be used outside in good weather and it too only lasts 5 minutes on an 80 gallon tank full of air before you need to let it recharge.
Anyways, back to the LV.
1. The Front passenger side door needs some work. While there is no rust, there are a couple of indents in the lower part of the inner door. There is also a indent where the grab handle goes... .right below where the window meets the door. (BUMMER).
2. I found the other 1/2 section of the doorstop that someone purchased. I know he's lurking, so if your out there... I'll ship it to you if you'll pay for the ride... even though it wasnt included in the sale, I feel it belongs to you.
3. I've noticed the the sill is pretty rough. While the floors are good, the sill needs some patch work. I have a friend (Basher) who has a bunch of presses and benders. I hope to take him up on the use of it so I can get this all patched up.
4. Guys, I'm having a very hard time keeping this LV together. I really want to powercoat the frame and work up!!!! But it stays together.
Here are some pictures. Check my gallery if you want to see them all. Everytime I post 3 pictures here... there is at least 30-50 on the gallery.
Cheers.
Mikesta,
2. I found the other 1/2 section of the doorstop that someone purchased. I know he's lurking, so if your out there... I'll ship it to you if you'll pay for the ride... even though it wasnt included in the sale, I feel it belongs to you.
4. Guys, I'm having a very hard time keeping this LV together. I really want to powercoat the frame and work up!!!! But it stays together.
I believe that would be me on the doorstops? Very decent of you. I will PM you. Oh, and please don't tear it apart. I can totally relate to your previous situation. With my back going south I feel like my rig is never going to see the road, but too late to second guess now.
2. I found the other 1/2 section of the doorstop that someone purchased. I know he's lurking, so if your out there... I'll ship it to you if you'll pay for the ride... even though it wasnt included in the sale, I feel it belongs to you.
4. Guys, I'm having a very hard time keeping this LV together. I really want to powercoat the frame and work up!!!! But it stays together.
I believe that would be me on the doorstops? Very decent of you. I will PM you. Oh, and please don't tear it apart. I can totally relate to your previous situation. With my back going south I feel like my rig is never going to see the road, but too late to second guess now.
- Thread starter
- #37
yessir. Responded to yer pm.