A How To/ All you need to know about window channel/run replacement (1 Viewer)

[cartercd]

Thanks for the write-up, it made this job much easer. Since you are going to have everything apart, this is a great time to do some "while you're in there" items. I replaced the inner/outer door belt moldings, the window regulator, the vapor barrier, lubed the door handle and lock mechanisms, and applied some Dynamat. My door feels 25 years younger.

 

[jaymar]

You can add even more window speed after this procedure by wiring more direct power to the window motors. I'm not sure exactly how that's accomplished, but I know TLC does it, even when installing all-new parts.

Also, question: Cruiser came from PO with vertically scored front windows; something inside was scraping the glass. Haven't addressed this yet because the damage is already done, but don't want it happening to new windows. What's up (and down) with that?

 

[sambrian2007]

Giving this a 2023 bump. This is a really old thread but it's not like the information here ever becomes irrelevant.

I want to say a major thanks for the information that everyone has provided here, especially the OP with the part numbers, etc. I completed all 4 of my runs about 20 minutes ago. It took 2ish hours in total. I tried not to remove the door cards but that doesn't work (don't waste your time). My door cards are in terrible shape and they lose a little of their soul each time I take them off. The old channel runs were so dry rotted. There is no cleaning that is going to help that.

My Install Tips - (run-on sentence FTW)
Don't remove windows (unless additional work is needed or you really want to clean everything 100%), Door cards off, start with windows almost all the way down, use a lot of windex in the runs behind the new rubber, start with the back and push the channel run in as far as possible from the top, make sure the glass is in the run and not misaligned when you start pushing the run downwards, roll window up, grab rubber channel through door and pull from bottom/push from top, repeat on the front. Tweak the finish to make sure the corners are aligned. Also make sure that the bottom of the run is firmly seated in the channel. You kind of work it top to bottom to top. After the first window you have the hang of it. Thats pretty much it.

This was oddly satisfying to do, even in the fall like weather here in Arkansas of 90 degrees. .

I can't tell you how big a difference this makes on the speed and smoothness of the windows going up and down. I'm estimating a 2-3 second difference on roll up time.

Thanks again to everyone that has contributed to this thread. It was very helpful to guide me through.

-Sam

 

[cgerckert]

This is my next baselining project with my 1997 LC AE.

I had ordered non OEM window/glass runs: FOR Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80 Lexus LX450 1991-1997 Front Rear Door Glass Run Set | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/374913254625 that looked identical to OEMs only due to time and I did not want to wait for overseas shipping.

My mechanic tested a rear passenger window, and found they were just as bad as the current ones on the truck, because the new ones did not have any felt on the run. He also tried the silicone spray etc to see if they would work better, but did not help.

I'm open to getting the OEMs this time around, but when I examine all the pictures, they also do not seem to have any felt on the inside of the rubber run. Here is an example close up of an OEM listing: Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus LX450 FJ80 1991-1997Front Rear Door Glass Run Set OEM | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/195218215085 What am I missing.

Any help on this would be great.

 

[sambrian2007]

This is my next baselining project with my 1997 LC AE.

I had ordered non OEM window/glass runs: FOR Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80 Lexus LX450 1991-1997 Front Rear Door Glass Run Set | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/374913254625 that looked identical to OEMs only due to time and I did not want to wait for overseas shipping.

My mechanic tested a rear passenger window, and found they were just as bad as the current ones on the truck, because the new ones did not have any felt on the run. He also tried the silicone spray etc to see if they would work better, but did not help.

I'm open to getting the OEMs this time around, but when I examine all the pictures, they also do not seem to have any felt on the inside of the rubber run. Here is an example close up of an OEM listing: Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus LX450 FJ80 1991-1997Front Rear Door Glass Run Set OEM | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/195218215085 What am I missing.

Any help on this would be great.

The OEM ones do not have felt in them. The major issue with my old ones is that the rubber was disintegrating. That disintegrating rubber sheds and bogs the window down as its in motion. I thought I had a pic of the old ones I pulled but can't find it, sorry. The new channels (OEM at least) have very soft and slick rubber. Its night and day difference. Def up to you but I would highly recommend OEM.

 

[cgerckert]

The OEM ones do not have felt in them. The major issue with my old ones is that the rubber was disintegrating. That disintegrating rubber sheds and bogs the window down as its in motion. I thought I had a pic of the old ones I pulled but can't find it, sorry. The new channels (OEM at least) have very soft and slick rubber. Its night and day difference. Def up to you but I would highly recommend OEM.

Thanks for the note. I'll take a swing with the OEM.

 

[Malleus]

The window runs do not have felt on them, the weatherstripping does:

All four windows are similar.

 

[cgerckert]

The window runs do not have felt on them, the weatherstripping does:
View attachment 3441169
View attachment 3441170
All four windows are similar.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[spensert5]

Just installed my drivers side rear run. Definitely does speed things up. Oddly though at the top 2-3 inches the window seems to get “stuck” and has a hard time seating all the way in. Is this normal break in on the new rubber or do I have an alignment issue? The window did seem pretty loose in the regulator when I had the old run out. Is there a good adjustment procedure for the rears?

 

[tone33]

I still have to do the 3rd row windows - how bad is that. I'm intimidated by the sliding frames

I did mine years ago and it sucked. I had to use the rope method to get them out and back in, and while that worked, they actually seemed harder to open and close than before. I guess its good I have new rubber though.

 

[effjay80]

Thank you Mud voices from the past! Window run marathon pending.

I assumed the rubber runs were symmetrical but they definitely have a thick and thin wall side. Appears the thin side facing out so flush with outer door frame.