A great problem to have, two FZJ80

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Did a bit of baseline maintenance this weekend. When I changed the oil in the rear differential I found a good deal of shavings on the drain plug, how bad is this development? I also couldn't get the rear diff to lock after the oil change, any ideas? The light just kept blinking.
 
Jay Supertramp said:
Did a bit of baseline maintenance this weekend. When I changed the oil in the rear differential I found a good deal of shavings on the drain plug, how bad is this development? I also couldn't get the rear diff to lock after the oil change, any ideas? The light just kept blinking.
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Blinking means it hasn't sensed that it is engaged. It may or may not be engaged.

Most of these haven't had their diff locks used much more than never. Find a gravel lot and drive big slow infinity sign double circles a few times to see if it stops blinking when 'on'. If you feel slipping and binding and 'push' through the steering then it is engaged. If you feel it really bad - then you probably have both rear and front on.

Also - you probably don't have it pin 7 modded, so the diff locks will only work in low range.

Some minor shavings on the drain plugs is normal - particularly if the diff fluid hasn't been serviced since it left Japan - many haven't. Those shavings could have come off the diffs during the first seating of the gears. If you're changing the diff fluids, do the transfer case as well. The three combined is something on the order of 2.5 gallons or more of 80/90 gear oil. Someone who has done one more recently could chime in. The last time I did mine I bought a 5 gallon pail from the parts store - cheaper than buying by the quart.
 
Jay Supertramp said:
Did a bit of baseline maintenance this weekend. When I changed the oil in the rear differential I found a good deal of shavings on the drain plug, how bad is this development? I also couldn't get the rear diff to lock after the oil change, any ideas? The light just kept blinking.
Click to expand...

Not ideal, "good deal of shavings" could be normal or a lot. Take a pic? The only way to know for sure is to pull the chunk and inspect. But it sounds like there is some rubbing. This may be something you can delay fixing and use as is with good oil. Worst case, buy a spare as time/budget permits and swap when broken/time permitted

For the lockers, it can take a bit to engage if it hasn't been done for awhile. Do a few figures 8's on gravel/grass/mud and see if it engages. Then go from there.
 
arcteryx said:
Not ideal, "good deal of shavings" could be normal or a lot. Take a pic? The only way to know for sure is to pull the chunk and inspect. But it sounds like there is some rubbing. This may be something you can delay fixing and use as is with good oil. Worst case, buy a spare as time/budget permits and swap when broken/time permitted

For the lockers, it can take a bit to engage if it hasn't been done for awhile. Do a few figures 8's on gravel/grass/mud and see if it engages. Then go from there.
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Grench said:
Blinking means it hasn't sensed that it is engaged. It may or may not be engaged.

Also - you probably don't have it pin 7 modded, so the diff locks will only work in low range.

If you're changing the diff fluids, do the transfer case as well. The three combined is something on the order of 2.5 gallons or more of 80/90 gear oil. Someone who has done one more recently could chime in. The last time I did mine I bought a 5 gallon pail from the parts store - cheaper than buying by the quart.
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I had it in low, I changed the oil, filter, front diff, t case and rear diff all this weekend, greased the drive shaft zerks and poured the kroil on anything I thought i might ever have to wrench on. I have a engine light on and the airbag light on so those and the trans fluid and filter change are this weekend.
 
Jay Supertramp said:
I had it in low
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Flipping the switch to engage the lockers loads a spring to push the locker in. It doesn't actually engage until it lines up with the diff. That is why we're asking for you to drive figure 8s with it 'on'.

The shavings on the drain plug are more than I had when I first did my diffs, but not a lot more. If your diff has never been serviced, that is probably about right for particles.
 
Have not had a chance to get on gravel to sort out the lockers however, but in a blue tooth OBD II scanner and have temps around 190. Also cleaned and waxed the GOAT. After my PM from last weekend I am shocked at the difference in start up. Prior to the oil change there was a strong odor and a lot of smoke on startup. Now after going with Mobile for exotics 0w 40 full Syn as discussed on several threads no smoke and no smell. I will be interested to see if I am still losing some oil. What do you like to see for water temps?
 
Also, the :princess: decided that two land cruisers especially one that looks like hell is not going to work so, what to do with the blue 95? Needs HG at least, was running when I bought it. The issue is really an issue of space and with me working so much it would be a long time before I got it running and in decent shape. Part it out, junk yard, or sell as a project? sound off please..
 
I don't think it is legal to part out, junk, or sell a wife but where there is a will there's a way.

Everyone should have two 80s!
 
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