A/C non-op: need help to locate all the switches (1 Viewer)

[torpedo51]

Hi,
My FJ62 has A/C that isn't working.

AC Dash button: operational and illuminated
AC fuse: good
AC clutch: not engaging.
The pigtail wire isn't delivering voltage to the clutch electromagnet.

I need to know what other switches exist and where they're LOCATED in the system, so that I can find/check/replace them:
1. Low compressor oil switch?
2. Cabin temp switch?
3. High pressure safety cutoff swtich?
4. etc.

Photos and a schematic would be outstanding please.

Thanks
T

p.s. Which shop manual do you enthusiasts prefer?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

THERE IS A PRESSURE SWITCH AND A THEREMAL SWITCH BOTH LOCATED IN THE SUITCASE...oops...and I'm gunna guess you're low on pressure...

check this out > For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[torpedo51]

I'm not sure how to check the refrigerant level. Since the clutch isn't engaging, I don't see anything in the sight glass. Suggestions?

 

[torpedo51]

I took it to a local shop a few days ago, and thats why I landed here. They estimated the worst case scenario as a R-134 conversion (about $200 in parts, labor, and a fill). The mechanic did a visual inspection and and told me that I needed to have the R-12 removed. I don't know if I trust that opinion. How could he see any bubbles without the clutch engaged?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

200 bucks doesn't seem unreasonable for the conversion, providing he will test, then, remove the comp, drain old oil and refill with proper oil, and reinstall, install new receiver/drier and new condenser, all new orings everywhere and clean out your case and fill your system. at least, that's what youd need to have done to do it right. I rebuilt my system with a new compressor from cool stream, a new desno evaporator and receiver/drier and orings and refilled with r12. it blows down to 38* at the vent...

 

[torpedo51]

With the car cold, engine not running... can I just put a pressure gauge on the schrader valve? Anything more than 0 psi might tell me that there is R-12 present. If it is 0psi, then I'll just move forward with the R-134 conversion.

Or, maybe I should just pay the shop to extract the R-12 and move forward with the R-134 conversion anyway?

 

[torpedo51]

I'm not trying to test operational pressure. I'm trying to find out if there is any residual R-12 in the system. A simple yes or no? I'm trying to avoid a $150 diagnosis fee.

My check downs look like this:

R-12 Present? > > Find a shop that will extract and dispose of it and do a R-134 conversion OR find a shop that will repair an R-12 system that doesn't have a leak

R-12 Absent? > > Find a shop that will to do the R-134 conversion.

 

[torpedo51]

For the benefit of all:

The first shop gave me a bunky diagnosis. They told me there was R-12 present (there wasn't).

At the second shop, I had the unit converted to R-134 and used Denso parts.

Thanks to all for the tips.