A/C Compressor mount fab & Install on 2H motor, w/photos

[rchalmers3]

I don't see too many posts regarding small fabrication jobs, so I thought I'd "throw one on the barbie".

Thanksgiving time last year I bought a clean, 1983 Calfornia FJ60 with the gasser motor. It has air lockers, 4:88 gears, 33" tires and a lift to clear them. Searching for this truck on the net was a blast, and while hunting for a truck I found this forum. Participating on mud has increased my ability to keep the truck in top condition.

My loving wife said I could perform a diesel conversion so I bought a rusty 1985 HJ60 in Canada and performed a comprehensive swap, including the motor, fender panels, wiring harness and all 24v motors, switches, relays and whatnot. We shipped the truck (and another FJ60) to Costa Rica where we live.

However, the conversion left me without a working A/C as the Cannuk diesel had no provisions for A/C for some reason. I was pleased with the truck as it was, but I'm not the only driver in the family. The wife wants her A/C and the A/C she shall have.

As I considered the project of completing the A/C, I first tried to buy the stock bracket and compressor that fits the 2H. But with shipping to Central America and taxes on the parts, I was way out of line for a reasonable install. I decided to build my own bracket and source the compressor locally.

Purchasing a 24v compressor was surprisingly easy. I bought a new "Sanden" type unit that mounts to the bracket using "ears" that stick out radially around the unit. I thought this would be easier for me to mount compared to the other "Nippon Denso" style that clamps down to the bracket with 4 long bolts that pass through the unit.

Enough yabb'in here's some pics.

 

[rchalmers3]

I made some templates for the bracket. I located potential mounting points and cleaned up the surfaces and chased the threads.

 

[rchalmers3]

Templates and finished product. Sorry I was on a roll and didn't stop to photo the assembly process.

 

[rchalmers3]

The idler came with the compressor. I decided I wanted it where I could reach it. Turns out it's in the only place I could realistically mount it.

 

[rchalmers3]

Mounted the compressor, figured out the correct length belt and buttoned her up.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the photo on the right shows an extra pulley to pass the A/C belt around the water pump. I bought that pulley from Michael at Privateparts 4x4. This is an important detail I need to mention. Also the crankshaft had an unused shive that aligned with the new waterpump pully!!! All is good!

 

[rchalmers3]

While the truck was down I replaced the 12v ARB locker compressor for a 24v onboard air unit. I built a stand off isolation bracket for mounting it on the (right) passenger side firewall. I'm hoping my isolation mount will reduce the noise passed into the passenger compartment. We will see.

I had a 24" hose extension made to keep the quick connect coupling from getting hot by being too close to the compressor head, which gets very hot. It's also up at the air cleaner now and easy to access.

I also plumbed the compressor to fill the rear tube bumper for extra air capacity. I put a drain plug at one end.

 

[rchalmers3]

And finally, since the battery post clamps were broken and corroded, I cut the ends off where the copper wire was good and soldered/crimped eyelets. I then installed marine style connections. Should make installing the winch easier.

 

[rchalmers3]

Fired it up tonight at dusk. Of course there's more to fix:

A/C clutch power no workie, which is OK for now since I don't know if the compressor shipped with oil.

Also, I lost the headlight function but I have located the fault. I may have melted the fusible link while soldering on a eyelet.

Also the ARB system no workie!!! I'll have to figure that out as well.

I'll get these things going and drive the truck out of the jungle where I live and have custom A/C hoses made, all seals replaced, replace the receiver/dryer and the system charged.

All in all I am happy with the fab job. I used hand tools so the stuff looks a little rough, but the function is there and it's overbuilt 'cause I ani't a engineer!!!

Rick

 

[Dirtgypsy]

that looks great. Call me crazy but I think that the ac compressor needs a signal from a coil to work?

clint

 

[Nemesis Gnat]

may not be an engineer, but do i see that youre ase certified?

also... the battery cables... this may seem like a dumb question, but how hard was it to put new ends on? im in dire need of new connections...

 

[rchalmers3]

that looks great. Call me crazy but I think that the ac compressor needs a signal from a coil to work?

clint

Clint,

Do you mean to say that the A/C compressor clutch power is controlled by a gasser ignition coil signal? If so I'll have to find a better wiring diagram and learn how it works so I can devise a remedy. The diesel sure won't supply any such signal!

Rick

 

[Wayneraintree]

Good topic.... I did the same swap as you... 24V everything, CAN 2H left me with no A/C. I saved the A/C switch on the dash from the FJ dash. When you depressed the A/C button, it idled up the engine to compensate for the load from the compressor. Did you plan to idle up? maybe use the manual idle up?

Have the Sanden part number? Belt part #?

Thanks,

 

[rchalmers3]

may not be an engineer, but do i see that youre ase certified?

Yes, but that was in a former life when I owned a shop. My ASE certifications lapsed in 2005 about when I moved from San Diego.

also... the battery cables... this may seem like a dumb question, but how hard was it to put new ends on? im in dire need of new connections...

Installing eyelets is easy, and a great alternative to replacing the cables. Let me know if you want me to describe the tools, materials and process.
Rick

 

[rchalmers3]

Good topic.... I did the same swap as you... 24V everything, CAN 2H left me with no A/C. I saved the A/C switch on the dash from the FJ dash. When you depressed the A/C button, it idled up the engine to compensate for the load from the compressor. Did you plan to idle up? maybe use the manual idle up?

Have the Sanden part number? Belt part #?

Thanks,

Hello Wayne,

Good to hear from you. Your conversion was my inspiration! I saw your posts and went running out the door to do one myself!!!

How is your rig treating you? I didn't plan it this way, but my truck has turned into a hobby. I thought it was going to be cool transportation but I find I'm paying alot of attention to making it "better"!

I can't remember the specifics of your rig, but if you are contemplating the installation of A/C, it will be a huge bonus if you FJ had A/C before the conversion.

As for idle up, I'm not too worried about deleting this compensation circuit. The diesel has tons o'grunt at idle and I'll bet the added A/C load at idle will barely affect the idle speed.

Plus, the wiring for the solenoid is intact and I can fab up a holder bracket if it needs a speed kick to offset the A/C compressor load.

Best wishes,

Rick

 

[Wayneraintree]

Hey Rick,

My 2H is doing fine... I really like it overall. With 3.73's, H55, and 31's I am getting 24MPG's on Dino and a little less on B100.

My FJ had A/C so I do have the parts already... need to buy the compressor and was thinking to source OE 24V parts but your 24V compressor and a hand made brackets sounds like a winner to me.

So what of the FJ A/C set up will I use?

 

[Nemesis Gnat]

hey to a grass roots tinkerer like myself, even if its 3 years expired i still give respect to any certification

and as for the battery cable... sorry its a bit of a hijack, but i assume you had to use one of those crimping machine dealies? and with the cut off portion, did attaching the eyelet make up enough length that you didnt run into cable length issue?

 

[rchalmers3]

Good topic.... I did the same swap as you... 24V everything, CAN 2H left me with no A/C. I saved the A/C switch on the dash from the FJ dash. Have the Sanden part number? Belt part #?

Thanks,

Wayne,

I did the same harness swap as you. I also retained the A/C push button switch. An important additional item for retention is the wiring for the A/C. There is a small wire harness for the A/C that plugs into the switch, the 24v harness, the evap thermistor and the amplifier.

Did you connect the seperate A/C harness up to the 24v harness and switch as I did? I hope it's there and hooked up, otherwise you will have some head scratching to do.


The belt I ended up using was 56" But don't buy it until your compressor and tensioner are ready for test fitting.

The Sanden type unit that I purchased is a no name. I stood on my head to read the decal on the compressor which says it's a PA-508 . The box had a different number but I don't think either PN will be of service to you. Here's a pic of the box.

 

[rchalmers3]

that looks great. Call me crazy but I think that the ac compressor needs a signal from a coil to work?

clint

Dude, you were sooooo right! I stared at a lousy manual today and pinned out the amplifier to see what I could achieve. Everything was there except for a coil signal. I could find no way to use the control system the way it was intended.

As I thought it through, I saw that at the amplifier connector I had what was needed to provide a basic control for operating the compressor clutch: From the origonal A/C switch I had 12v on/off power, I had a good ground circuit, I had a 24v power source and the load wire to the compressor clutch.

So I modified the system by installing a 30 amp relay. I basically bypassed the amplifier with a relay using 12v to switch 24v.

It works and will suit my needs. I plan to have the system completed at an A/C shop next week.

Let me know if you want the pin out details: wire colors to relay positions.

Here's some pics

 

[rchalmers3]

and as for the battery cable... sorry its a bit of a hijack, but i assume you had to use one of those crimping machine dealies? and with the cut off portion, did attaching the eyelet make up enough length that you didnt run into cable length issue?

The stock cables all had the extra length to not only cut off the broken lead clamps, but to also remove any corrosion and leave clean copper for tinning and soldering.

My method was to tin the cable and eyelet seperatly, then slip them together and sweat solder the joint, followed by a whack in the crimping tool for a good mechanical bond. I used shrink tubing to protect and seal the cable end.

The tool for crimping is cheap and simple. you use a BFG and it works as well as the expensive alternatives.

My cost was for the marine clamps and a half dozen eyelets, or about 30 bones. I like that way better than the ticket for new cables.

 

[Nemesis Gnat]

my to do list just gone 1 item longer

thanks!