'99 LC shift indicator plate part number (2 Viewers)

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Mine looks just like everyone else's in here, with the bubbled up sticker. What I can't tell is how that label is affixed. The sticker would have to be inside a two-layer part, but I'm guessing those two layers are either bonded together and were in the mold 20-odd years ago, or just glued to death. Has anyone tried to dissect an old one and see how it's made/ if that sticker can come out or be replaced with something else? If you wind up wrecking the whole part to get it open (which is what I'd imagine) then that won't help.

It's not exactly the end of the world, but like a lot of guys I'm slowly going through a rolling resto kind of situation on this car, and it'd be cool if that part could be addressed. The ZRH tactical solution is fine by me (and I might go that way anyway - I'm really not trying too hard to keep this thing stock), if an OEMish situation can't work out.
 
Mine looks just like everyone else's in here, with the bubbled up sticker. What I can't tell is how that label is affixed. The sticker would have to be inside a two-layer part, but I'm guessing those two layers are either bonded together and were in the mold 20-odd years ago, or just glued to death. Has anyone tried to dissect an old one and see how it's made/ if that sticker can come out or be replaced with something else? If you wind up wrecking the whole part to get it open (which is what I'd imagine) then that won't help.

It's not exactly the end of the world, but like a lot of guys I'm slowly going through a rolling resto kind of situation on this car, and it'd be cool if that part could be addressed. The ZRH tactical solution is fine by me (and I might go that way anyway - I'm really not trying too hard to keep this thing stock), if an OEMish situation can't work out.
Look up a forum thread "
Mine looks just like everyone else's in here, with the bubbled up sticker. What I can't tell is how that label is affixed. The sticker would have to be inside a two-layer part, but I'm guessing those two layers are either bonded together and were in the mold 20-odd years ago, or just glued to death. Has anyone tried to dissect an old one and see how it's made/ if that sticker can come out or be replaced with something else? If you wind up wrecking the whole part to get it open (which is what I'd imagine) then that won't help.

It's not exactly the end of the world, but like a lot of guys I'm slowly going through a rolling resto kind of situation on this car, and it'd be cool if that part could be addressed. The ZRH tactical solution is fine by me (and I might go that way anyway - I'm really not trying too hard to keep this thing stock), if an OEMish situation can't work out.
Look up a forum thread :

camel leather shift knob and shift position indicator refurbishing​

That fellow goes through it step by step what he found and what he did.
 
Look up a forum thread "

Look up a forum thread :

camel leather shift knob and shift position indicator refurbishing​

That fellow goes through it step by step what he found and what he did.
That's... actually way simpler than I thought. A little tedious/ creative masking would allow for a thinner/ more aligned indicator stripe, too, so... I'll wind up doing this whenever I pull the console apart to replace/ refurb the shifter.

Thanks for the link.
 
That's... actually way simpler than I thought. A little tedious/ creative masking would allow for a thinner/ more aligned indicator stripe, too, so... I'll wind up doing this whenever I pull the console apart to replace/ refurb the shifter.

Thanks for the link.
Glad to help! I intend to tackle mine soon. I believe the secret is to mark/mask the indicator stripe slots BEFORE you scrape the paint. My struggle right now is figuring out how to preserve the night sight transparency of the letters PRND2L, unlike the other fellow who lost the night sight when he painted over them...... .
 
When my replacement fails again, I'll be looking for a good DIY repair solution. I wonder about the viability of putting one of the old ones on a flatbed scanner and scan the pattern in at 1:1, then trace it in Illustrator to create a good vector file of both the PRNDL and oval indicators. Scrape all the paint off, and have a decal printed at the appropriate opacity to replicate the original paint. Then, when the decal eventually bubbles, just peel it off and put a new one on?

I still have my old one and might try that sometime when I have some extra time. If we can get a good fitting decal, we can post the file up here and anyone can upload it to their decal shop of choice. I have one locally that I've used for a few specialty projects that I'm sure would be willing to work with me to experiment on this. It seems if you had it printed on clear vinyl, they could layer on the black where needed, leave clear for the areas that need to stay clear, and have some semi-transparent areas under the PRNDL letters.
 
When my replacement fails again, I'll be looking for a good DIY repair solution. I wonder about the viability of putting one of the old ones on a flatbed scanner and scan the pattern in at 1:1, then trace it in Illustrator to create a good vector file of both the PRNDL and oval indicators. Scrape all the paint off, and have a decal printed at the appropriate opacity to replicate the original paint. Then, when the decal eventually bubbles, just peel it off and put a new one on?

I still have my old one and might try that sometime when I have some extra time. If we can get a good fitting decal, we can post the file up here and anyone can upload it to their decal shop of choice. I have one locally that I've used for a few specialty projects that I'm sure would be willing to work with me to experiment on this. It seems if you had it printed on clear vinyl, they could layer on the black where needed, leave clear for the areas that need to stay clear, and have some semi-transparent areas under the PRNDL letters.
I'm all for that! I talked to a guy that makes auto stickers, but he seemed to thank the opaque portion for the PRND2L would be difficult. Then again, he might of been blowing me off and just wasn't interested. I personally thought/think it's a great idea. I do think the billett replacement piece looks good, but I have a 2001 LC that I'm trying to keep totally stock.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure how difficult it is either, just seems if you use a clear base and reduced opacity in the file that's printed, it might get close? I'd have to talk to my decal shop to get their take though, I've only ever had solid color stuff printed. Maybe worst case scenario that portion could be done in two layers?
 
Yeah, I'm not sure how difficult it is either, just seems if you use a clear base and reduced opacity in the file that's printed, it might get close? I'd have to talk to my decal shop to get their take though, I've only ever had solid color stuff printed. Maybe worst case scenario that portion could be done in two layers?
 
Another thought- anyone whose wife has a Cricut type vinyl stencil machine could probably make a stencil for the letters/ indicator slots. So then the process would be to scrape, apply stencil, peel the main field (the black part), paint over it all with black paint, then just peel the masked letters/ indicators back up.

Somebody's honey is out there making tshirts for their church or whatever, commandeer that thing. :D
 
Looks like some of these (35921-60180) popped up on eBay for anyone still looking. Hard to find now.

 
Looks like some of these (35921-60180) popped up on eBay for anyone still looking. Hard to find now.

MUCH THANKS! Appears I may have snagged one! Waiting for verification. Thx, again. 2001 LC and trying to keep it totally stock....
 
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Ended up getting a ZR Tactical one instead. If you want an OE look try to grab an original but with the black anodizing it actually looks pretty good.
 
Anyone received a shipping notice from the eBay buy?
I haven't yet. I check ever day b/c I don't look forward to trying to refurb mine or, if not satisfied with my refurb (highly likely), then having to buy the billet plate (although the black does look good). As I stated before, I am hellbent on staying stock, unless it is impossible to do so.
 

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