'98 LC Only runs with O/D off button pressed.

[Erasmus25]

Hey all,
Lurked on this forum for months while I have shopped and been working on my cruiser. I bought rig for a steal; it had a terrible knock in the old motor. I freighted a used 2UZ from Japan and dropped the new motor in. Turns over and runs great. Happy ending right?

Well... I noticed that the O/D OFF light was illuminated. Not thinking much of it, I pushed the button on the shifter to turn overdrive back on and the motor dies. The truck doesn't start with over drive on, only when the button is pressed. And whenever it is running, pushing the button kills the motor.
I've searched the Internet, including this forum and others. All the local "Landcruiser specialty" shops I've called are scratching their heads. I am at the end of my troubleshooting capabilities. I am bringing the car to a local guy with good reviews and Is willing to poke around on Tuesday.
If anyone has any brilliant ideas for what I can do or check over the weekend, or better yet has seen this problem before, your help would be much appreciated.

 

[Exiled]

This sounds like something wasn't connected right when the engine was reinstalled, possibly a different transmission connector between the wiring harnesses from different markets? I've never encountered something like this but that stands out as a possible root cause.

 

[Erasmus25]

This sounds like something wasn't connected right when the engine was reinstalled, possibly a different transmission connector between the wiring harnesses from different markets? I've never encountered something like this but that stands out as a possible root cause.

I was very careful to make sure I reinstalled the original wiring harness from the original motor, so the connectors shouldn't be the problem. Unless there is some damaged wire or other issues. I will post an update if any new info comes to light.

 

[2001LC]

Interesting and strange, one I've never heard of.

Few?

• Was issue present before, swapping the engine?
• Does engine crank but not start, with O/D on?
• Any aftermarket toys, and or wiring?
• Any splices or cut factory wires?
• Have you scanned for DTC (codes)?
• What is immobilizer (blink light on center console near OAT reading) light doing? It should blink when no key in IG. Go off with IG key inserted and not come back on until IG key removed. Note: 2 blinks then off, means salve key is inserted.

Some thoughts. O/D button is somehow cutting spark, fuel or possible short dealing with neutral lock off (in gear trying to start) are my guesses.

Some CHECKs.

Neutral lock off Switch short:
SW is found on RH of A/T. Which keeps starter for receiving power while cranking, if A/T in gears.
A clue could be, no crank when IG key turn to start with OD on. I'd try moving shift to N. Try starting, with foot off and then on off brake pedal.
I'd would focus on the 3 wire housing block on top of transmission (A/T) bell housing, and wire block on neutral lock off SW. If no crank condition. See if any pins bent or wire housing block not locked in.

Fuel:
No power (12V) to fuel pump. Which is what the immobilizer system controls.
If will not start with O/D on, but cranks. I'd check for fuel pressure while cranking. This would indicate power to fuel pump cut, with O/D circuit.
If no fuel while cranking. You'd may also see a lean DTC for one or both banks. You'd need to run engine, hit O/D button killing engine. Check for DTC before IG key turned off.

Spark:
Spark could be checked, by pulling a spark plug attaching to coil and ground while cranking with O/D on.
Again a DTC may be pending. So check before IG key turned to off.

Knowing which circuit, will help isolate the short.

I'm very curious:
You stated: "I freighted a used 2UZ from Japan" How'd you find this engine and what did it cost?
Cost break down: Engine? Shipping? Tariffs, taxes, duties and fee?

 

[Erasmus25]

Interesting and strange, one I've never heard of.

Few?

• Was issue present before, swapping the engine?
• Does engine crank but not start, with O/D on?
• Any aftermarket toys, and or wiring?
• Any splices or cut factory wires?
• Have you scanned for DTC (codes)?
• What is immobilizer (blink light on center console near OAT reading) light doing? It should blink when no key in IG. Go off with IG key inserted and not come back on until IG key removed. Note: 2 blinks then off, means salve key is inserted.

Some thoughts. O/D button is somehow cutting spark, fuel or possible short dealing with neutral lock off (in gear trying to start) are my guesses.

Some CHECKs.

Neutral lock off Switch short:
SW is found on RH of A/T. Which keeps starter for receiving power while cranking, if A/T in gears.
A clue could be, no crank when IG key turn to start with OD on. I'd try moving shift to N. Try starting, with foot off and then on off brake pedal.
I'd would focus on the 3 wire housing block on top of transmission (A/T) bell housing, and wire block on neutral lock off SW. If no crank condition. See if any pins bent or wire housing block not locked in.

Fuel:
No power (12V) to fuel pump. Which is what the immobilizer system controls.
If will not start with O/D on, but cranks. I'd check for fuel pressure while cranking. This would indicate power to fuel pump cut, with O/D circuit.
If no fuel while cranking. You'd may also see a lean DTC for one or both banks. You'd need to run engine, hit O/D button killing engine. Check for DTC before IG key turned off.

Spark:
Spark could be checked, by pulling a spark plug attaching to coil and ground while cranking with O/D on.
Again a DTC may be pending. So check before IG key turned to off.

Knowing which circuit, will help isolate the short.

I'm very curious:
You stated: "I freighted a used 2UZ from Japan" How'd you find this engine and what did it cost?
Cost break down: Engine? Shipping? Tariffs, taxes, duties and fee?

This is a really great list of considerations for trouble shooting this problem. I will address what i can now, but because I do not have the car back yet, so I cannot try everything suggested in this post.

Responses to your above questions:

• It is hard for me to say if the issue was present before the engine swap. I heard the old motor turn idle for about 40 seconds before I pulled it out and quite frankly, i was too distracted by the worst sounding engine knock i have heard in my entire life to have the presence of mind to look at the dash board and see if the car had the "O/D OFF" light illuminated during that time. My only clue is that when i turned over the new motor for the first time, I was sitting, satisfied with a job well done in the driver seat while it was idling and noticed the O/D OFF light. I turned it back on and the motor died. So maybe the problem was present before I swapped the motor because the truck was left in a state with the overdrive off? I could reach out to the previous owner, but it is coming up on 7 months ago that he sold me the car, so he might not remember.
• Yes, the engine crank but not start, with O/D on.
• No aftermarket toys, and or wiring that I have found on yet on the truck. Everything looks stock and I have no aftermarket looking switches or wires.
• No splices or cut factory wires that I have found.
• I have you scanned for codes. Nothing before I dropped it off with the mechanic.
• I will need to check the immobilizer blinking light when I get the truck back. I thought it might be an immobilizer issue early in my trouble shooting, but I shifted away from that after clearing codes and reflashing the ECU with the problem still being present. I shifted my focus to some type of transmission related issue.

Regarding the Checks you suggested:
Neutral lock off Switch short: The local guy had a similar thought regarding the 3 connectors on the top of the transmission AND the fourth connector on the side of the transmission on the passenger side. He disassembled that fourth connector on the side of the bell house in order to individually test the solenoids and make sure they all work. They all worked fine and when he cleaned and reassembled that connector, the problem went away for one evening. However by the next morning, the problem returned. It should also be noted that by this point, he has done lots of wiring checks in the cab of the vehicle: checking continuity at the button on the shifter, the light on the instrument cluster, and at the ECU. So the problem going away for a few starts isn't necessarily linked with him cleaning that transmission connector, that is just the last part that he messed with.

Fuel and Spark: These is an avenue worth trying. I will pass it along to the mechanic the car is with and see if he will try them. If he doesn't want to for some reason, i can check it at home when I get the car back.

Regarding freighting in a 2UZ-FE from Japan, I am not sure many of the details you are asking about. A local engine shop I have worked with my whole life found the motor for me threw their channels and i just paid them the bottom line. I will reach out to them and get some more info.

Other findings from the mechanic:
While taking apart the instrument cluster to look at the dash light part of the circuit, he found evidence of water coming down my driver side A-pillar. There is plenty of talk about this in these 25 year old vehicles on this forum, so I foresee sunroof maintenance in my future. Him focusing on the driver floorboard area of the vehicle lead him to finding a broken wire that might be shorting in the harness that penetrates the firewall near there. He is going to fix that wire and see what the result is.

 

[2001LC]

Water entry down A pillar. Can cause very strange electrical gremlins. That clear up once dry. Long term water entry, can cause gremlins long after dry. Due to oxidation and corrosion from being wet.

This is very often from poor windshield install:

1. Installer leaves 1 or more of the 4 rivet holes in "A" pillar, open.
2. Black poly, not applied well.
3. Rust holes.

 

[2001LC]

"Yes, the engine crank but not start, with O/D on." FWIW. Engine will not crank, when not in P or N (neutral lock).

I'd now check for fuel pressure or flow. While cranking O/D OFF.
------No fuel flow. Points to fuel circuit.
------Fuel does flow. Points to spark.