'96 Random Hesitation Stumble at Idle, Low Throttle, and High Trottle

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Joined
Feb 15, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
19
Location
Orange, CA
Hi all, this is my first post here and I have been soaking up a lot of information from this forum to work on my new to me 96 80 Series. It has 214k miles and I bought it from the original owners at the beginning of this year, I have been struggling with it since the day it came home.

It has a random hesitation/stumble/almost stall, whatever you want to call it. By random I mean very random. Sometimes it will happen at idle, some times cruising speed, sometimes at low acceleration. Sometimes I will drive and there will be no hesitation what so ever and it is like nothing is wrong. I would say when it does hesitate it is mostly at low throttle, so as I ease onto the gas from a stop it will drop RPM and almost want to stall. It also will do it at idle, and sometimes when I am at cruising speeds. Only twice has it actually stalled completely out, and that was when I was going in reverse very slowly, but I have been in reverse slowly many times and there has been no issue. I do feel like it shifts late sometimes but it is hard for me to tell if that's normal cause I don't have much experience driving an 80.

It also had the P0401 code. I followed a post on here and replaced everything (hoses, vsv, egr modulator, and cleaned the intake and throttle body)I also replaced the fuel filter, PHH, other water hoses while I was there, fan blades, and fan clutch, exhaust donuts, thermostat, and flushed the coolant. The P0401 code went away but this hesitation still remains.

Here are a list of the things I checked:
  • Wire Harness Next to EGR Pipe: i removed the old tape and checked the wires, they looked good, i rewrapped it with 3 layers of protection.
  • The MAF wiring harness, and I cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner
  • I tried to jump the fuel pump circuit but when I jumped the +B to the Fp. I heard no noise like I was expecting, like a pump turning on with the key in the 'ON' position.
  • I removed the fuel pump to check it out, it is not OEM but appears to be clean and recently replaced, the sock looks great too.
  • I opened the distributor and replaced the rotor and cap, there was some oil in the distributor which I cleaned off with electric parts cleaner.
  • There was also some oil in the #1 cylinder, but I was told that the valve cover gasket was recently replaced, and it appears to be replaced properly, just no OEM spark plug wires.
My best guesses now are something with the fuel pump circuit but I couldn't figure out the test for the +B to Fp. Also, I can't locate the COR, I thought it was on the passenger side and I would see it when I removed the speaker but it was not there and same on driver side, I saw some relays but they weren't the COR relay. Maybe a throttle position sensor problem? Or Oil intrusion?

I am at a loss here and I have read scrolled through multiple searches of 'random' 'hesitation' 'cor' 'fuel pump' 'stalling' but no post was exactly my problem and I am still not sure which direction to go.

Will the community please help this poor soul, I am willing to do what it takes just need some guidance. I want to diagnosis and figure out not just start throwing new parts at it, all the parts I have been buying are OEM, so fuel pump and new wires will be quite expensive and I will be nowhere closer to figuring it out if those aren't my solution.

distributor.webp


maf.webp


no oem fuel pump.webp
 
Welcome!

How dry is that intake hose ? I might be wrong but it almost look cracked on the picture ? The rest look good to me .

Chasing similar gremlins on mine ... Good luck to you ;)
 
I see how you could say that from the photos but it’s dry and looks in good shape considering. I just took another picture but it’s night so hard to tell.

IMG_2001.webp


IMG_1999.webp
 
I hope this post doesn't jinx it but wanted to follow up on this to give hope to others.

When I bought this truck it had been sitting for a while and one of my first guesses was bad gas. I added some HEET and filled up with new gas, it improved but was still bad so i thought bad gas was off the table. This past Saturday I was under a 1/4 tank and filled up with gas again and added some techron fuel injector cleaner. Since then I have not had my hesitation issue, so it looks like the culprit was bad gas, cheapest fix for a high stress problem for me, fingers crossed.
 
I hope this post doesn't jinx it but wanted to follow up on this to give hope to others.

When I bought this truck it had been sitting for a while and one of my first guesses was bad gas. I added some HEET and filled up with new gas, it improved but was still bad so i thought bad gas was off the table. This past Saturday I was under a 1/4 tank and filled up with gas again and added some techron fuel injector cleaner. Since then I have not had my hesitation issue, so it looks like the culprit was bad gas, cheapest fix for a high stress problem for me, fingers crossed.
Will drop a TKO in my tank and see what happens I guess ... Can't hurt anyway
 
Unfortunately I am back.

I put the techron in and it had no issue for that tank of gas and a second tank of gas (no additive). I was feeling great, I replaced the fuel pump because it wasn't OEM and the problem returned. I filled it up with a 3rd tank (no additive), and yes the problem is very much still there.

It even stalled in drive this time waiting at a light, I turn the truck back on and then it drives as normal. Also, a more alarming incident happened. I was going about 60mph on the freeway cruising, then it would drop like 200rpm then bounce back up, it jerked me around in the car quite a bit but then would completely go away once I let off the gas pedal. The moment I put my foot back on the gas pedal it would do the same, this was for about 2 minutes, until it just completely went away and was back to normal, and I drove home.

Next day I drove to work (freeway and street) and there was no issue. It usually drops in RPM but today I noticed when I started it it bounced up in RPM and then proceeded to stall as I was backing out of a parking spot. Later today, at a stop light I get the RPM drop at idle, I recorded it. This is occurring at idle and at cruising speeds, and I am scratching my head.

I recorded this video as well which occurred right after the other video, I have a feeling it is shifting late and is under powered but this is my first 80 so maybe that's just the way it is.

I was thinking about cleaning the IAC (which I probably will do anyway) but the hesitation at 60mph makes me lean away from that as a possible culprit. It is either fuel or spark, I think it is fuel due to the Techron clearing the issue for 2 tanks, but I am not sure.

Any suggestions out there on which way to turn?
 
@bestday99LC

It's not going to be the IAC. Have you pulled the wrapping off the main wire harnesses where it passes the EGR looking for damaged wires?
Yes I looked at those wires and rewrapped them but maybe I didn’t look hard enough.

I think you’re right about it not being the IAC as that wouldn’t explain the RPM drop at 60mph.

Was also thinking the TPS or ignition focused like non oem wires.
 
Yes I looked at those wires and rewrapped them but maybe I didn’t look hard enough.

I think you’re right about it not being the IAC as that wouldn’t explain the RPM drop at 60mph.

Was also thinking the TPS or ignition focused like non oem wires.
Did you check you fuel pressure at the fuel rail ?
 
@bestday99LC

Could be the TPS needs adjustment or replacement.
When it refuses to start, assuming it cranks, press the throttle a very small amount while the starter kicks in.
The engine harness where it passes a support bracket behind the glove box near the ECM in the ODB2 models is a known problem.
When it stalls on the highway what happens with other electrical items like dash lights, radio, gauges?
Have you checked battery connections and replaced fusible links? ... Cheap insurance to replace even if they look good.
 
@bestday99LC

Could be the TPS needs adjustment or replacement.
When it refuses to start, assuming it cranks, press the throttle a very small amount while the starter kicks in.
The engine harness where it passes a support bracket behind the glove box near the ECM in the ODB2 models is a known problem.
When it stalls on the highway what happens with other electrical items like dash lights, radio, gauges?
Have you checked battery connections and replaced fusible links? ... Cheap insurance to replace even if they look good.
It always starts and it’s only ever shut off on me when at a stop light or when reversing out of a parking spot. It didn’t stall on the freeway it only drops rpms randomly then comes back up which jerks me around in the truck quite a bit. I got another video of it today, this time just on surface streets.

I have an extra fusible link I can replace that. The battery is new from Toyota and the connections look good.

I do think it’s tps, I might try wiggling the wires around the tps to see if I can replicate it. I tried that once before but nothing happened. I’ll do the FSM test at some point but fear it will show good cause the problem is so intermittent.

Thanks all for the responses.
 
I have a '94 and am not one of those wide range Landcruiser experts on this site. The 2,900 rpm shift points would point me to the transmission cable on the throttle body. I think it is referred to as the kick-down cable. If this is off I would suspect the other two cables for your idle issue.

You will find a copy of the FSM in the resource section of this site. It will have detailed instructions on how to test/adjust the kick down cable. Start there.
 
I know someone already said to check the air intake tube, but I would check it again. The cracks in the tube tend to be in the valleys of the flexible ridged section of tube. Take the tube off and bend that section and look for any splits. They can hide and be easy to miss when when inspecting it while it is installed.

I also agree that the shift issues may be with a problem with the kickdown cable as @BTLSHP pointed out - especially since you took the throttle-body off and am guessing you took those cables off (kick down, throttle cable and cruise control cables). Make sure they are routed correctly and adjusted correctly. Not sure that this is actually your problem but it is easy to check.
 
Also, your distributor and rotor don't look to be oem - maybe that is a problem? if you decide to replace it, replace the dizzy O-ring as well since you said there was some oil leaking.
 
Also, your distributor and rotor don't look to be oem - maybe that is a problem? if you decide to replace it, replace the dizzy O-ring as well since you said there was some oil leaking.
The rotor and cap were replaced after the photo but is the distributor itself not oem?

I wouldn’t doubt I put those cables on wrong but the problem was there prior to that but I will double check the cables just in case.

I’ll add the intake tube check to my list.

This is what I plan to tackle tomorrow:
1. Pull distributor and check if oil has returned.
2. Pull #1 plug see if oil has returned there.
3. Pull the intake tube and bend and check for cracks.
4. Pull IAC and clean.
 
I would check the intake tube with either a propane torch (no flame) or a spray can of carburetor cleaner. Those things become brittle as can be so if you can check it in place you are better off.
 
I would check the intake tube with either a propane torch (no flame) or a spray can of carburetor cleaner. Those things become brittle as can be so if you can check it in place you are better off.
How would I Check with carb cleaner in place? Just spray all around it to see if I notice a change in rpm?
 
This is a photo from another thread recently that shows what an OEM rotor looks like. I don't know if there have been changes to the rotor over the years but it looks like someone replaced the original with what you have. I could be wrong, but both my 97 lc and lx look like what @george_tlc posted.

This is what OEM looks like...

cheers,
george.

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