88 C vs 82 C thermostat

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Gold Boy said:
Just got off the phone from speaking to Penticton Toyota. They said that there is not a 82C T-stat for the 3b (same t-stat as 13BT I assume).

Can anyone confirm this?

:beer:

Well if there isn't one then 4wheelAuto sent me a non-3B 82C t-stat and it's in there now doing exactly what 108Cruz describes. Maybe call 4Wheel Gold Boy and see if they can hook you up. Maybe the dealer only gets what was stock originally for Canada?

I have the rad curtain too and use it in the winter with the 82C t-stat. Works great. I am in coastal No. California and it will get to freezing in the winter but not much colder. I find the rad curtain is still necessary even in 50F weather though with the 82C t-stat.

Cannot say how glad I am that I have the 82C t-stat when I recently climbed out of Death Valley (-200 ft. elevation) over the Sierras (8000 ft. elevation) in 80+F weather.

Sorry 108 if you've got a cracked head or gasket problem. Sounds like it to me but I hope it is another issue...

B
 
Diescipel said:
Well if there isn't one then 4wheelAuto sent me a non-3B 82C t-stat and it's in there now doing exactly what 108Cruz describes. Maybe call 4Wheel Gold Boy and see if they can hook you up. Maybe the dealer only gets what was stock originally for Canada?

I have the rad curtain too and use it in the winter with the 82C t-stat. Works great. I am in coastal No. California and it will get to freezing in the winter but not much colder. I find the rad curtain is still necessary even in 50F weather though with the 82C t-stat.

Cannot say how glad I am that I have the 82C t-stat when I recently climbed out of Death Valley (-200 ft. elevation) over the Sierras (8000 ft. elevation) in 80+F weather.

Sorry 108 if you've got a cracked head or gasket problem. Sounds like it to me but I hope it is another issue...

B




You say that you put in a 82 C t-stat and it is doing the same as I desribed.

Are you refering to the white smoke issue ? and how long ago did you put the t-stat in ?
 
crushers said:
SOME 42s had the blind.
Some 60s had the blind.
i had a JDM 74 come in with the blind (add on?)
i had a BJ61 come in with the blind...

My 74 has a blind.
 
108Cruz said:
When I had a cold start up yesterday, I walked into the white smoke and did not note the usual diesel smell. I could'nt say for sure but it did smell somewhat different.

When you shut down the engine , you can hear bubbleing in the overflow tank as it fills up but does not usually go past the full marker on the bottle.

I have a 90 LJ71, with only 64,000 k's.

I will do a cold start up later when I go to town and see what the smoke situation is.

Peter


I think you need to take your LJ71 to a pro. For confirmation.

Change the rad cap also.
 
i am curious, how does changing the thermostate lead to white smoke out the exhaust? they are 2 seperate systems...
 
Update.

I went out to do a cold start up.

I checked the engine by poppng off the rad cap ( new rad cap put in 2000 k's ago ). There was just a bit of coolent in the filler neck when I put my finger in. Overflow was just 1/2 inch above 1/2 mark. I left the rad cap off the see if there would be immediate presuure build up and the see if the coolent would rise.

Oil was checked and it was black ( 3000 k since last change ) with no sign of browny color

I then went to start the veh. On turn over I noted only a small 4-5 sec. puff of black and gray smoke and then nothing.

I checked the cooling system and the coolent did not flow out of the filler neck after a few mins. of ideling. I put the rad cap back on and there still was no immediate pressure build up on the upper rad hose until at least 10 mins.of running. Overfglow bottle was still at the half mark.

I went inside to check the temp gauage and it was at the 1/4 mark.

I turned on the heat and the fan on to high. There was only cool air coming out of the vents.

I goosed the throttle a few times and there was only a bit of black smoke.

I am stumped as to why I'm getting different results now as to yesterday with all the white smoke and now there is no heat.

I will still be getting a coolent pressure check done asap.

Any new idea's.

Thanks

Peter
 
did you try and add coolant?
coolant sitting int he filler neck is misleading.
cool air usually dictates low cool but not always...
(cold air means the rad has froze... not a problem this time of year)
 
108Cruz said:
You say that you put in a 82 C t-stat and it is doing the same as I desribed.

Are you refering to the white smoke issue ? and how long ago did you put the t-stat in ?

Sorry, no, I have no white smoke issues other than the usual 5 secs. or so from overinjection at cold start. I meant that my engine temperature is behaving exactly like you described your temperature. It's what others have described too, so I believe it's the normal temperature behavior for the 82C t-stat.

I put mine in about a year ago.

OK based on your update, here's a newbie shot in the dark:

As Gold Boy said, you have a big air pocket in your coolant from the t-stat change.

In fact, the pocket is so big, your heater core is without coolant, thus causing it to blow cold.

It's so big that (really stretching--I know nothing about 2LTEs or even if this would be plausible with my 3B) your temp sensor on your block has air around it, not coolant.

The engine is sensing that the block is still cold because the coolant isn't circulating to evenly warm the block.

The EDIC or whatever stays in over-inject mode until the block conducts heat around to the temp sensor. This takes much longer than normal, hence the white smoke for a minute or so. (Doesn't explain the lack of diesel smell in the white smoke, unless somebody snuck BioD into your rig.)

Solution is simply to bleed the rad etc. of air. Point the truck uphill with the rad cap off until all the air bubbles out, adding new coolant as it does--or whatever the best procedure would be for an LJ. Can't hurt.

Go ahead, shoot it down.;)

But then didn't Wayne have a post about how prone 2LT(E) heads were to cracking?

:cheers:
B
 
Brendan,
one side point, the 7* series have the rad caps on the thermostate housing so you will need to bleed the system again after you set the front back on level ground since there will be air in the top of the rad...
personally i think this is the stupidest setup i have come across...
 
You might be onto something there " Diescipel "

As I said earlier there was only cool-cold air coming from the vents when heat on.

A couple of hours ago when I drove to town ( 15 km. ) I left the heat control on even though only cool air was coming out. I kept an eye on the temp. guage and noted that it was starting to climb from the just below 1/2 to into 3/4 territory. I was on a flat stretch and doing 90 kph.

I was thinking about finding a spot to pull over and check things out when all of a sudden the needle went back down to it's earlier temp. within what seemed seconds and then warm, then hot air came out of the vents again. It got so warm in the cab that I opened a window.

I pulled over and checked the engine bay and all seemed fine with no leaks etc.and overflow bottle was at the full mark.

I did a few errands and everytime I stopped I popped the hood to check things out. The drive home was also uneventful and hot air was still flowing.

It seemed strange that the system seemed to fix itself. No white smoke was noted on the drive.

Maybe there really was an air pocket in the system since all this happened in the last 24 hrs.after I changed the t-stat.

I hope all is well now and I will moniter the cooling system for the next little while.

Thanks

Peter
 
108Cruz said:
A couple of hours ago when I drove to town ( 15 km. ) I left the heat control on even though only cool air was coming out. I kept an eye on the temp. guage and noted that it was starting to climb from the just below 1/2 to into 3/4 territory. I was on a flat stretch and doing 90 kph.

I was thinking about finding a spot to pull over and check things out when all of a sudden the needle went back down to it's earlier temp. within what seemed seconds and then warm, then hot air came out of the vents again. It got so warm in the cab that I opened a window.

Bingo.

I think if it were a cracked head or head gasket leak you would have constant symptoms. Based on your update and this, hopefully you just have to bleed the cooling system.

:cheers:
B
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom