80 Series Part Time Conversion

[wrongway around]

Ya mine is a dd and wheel mostly down around the coast. As far as locking the hubs you do that when you air down. When it comes to icy freeways and such it's pretty much tire selection that will keep you on the road. As far as driveline vib well that only happens when a rig is not built proper. Your main objective is to eliminate rebuilding the knuckles axles drive line and the r&p partime does that period. But it doesn't lock on the fly unless your hubs are already locked in..it's hard to get proper advice from guys on this because by the time a guy does by an 80 it's usually his first awd wheeling rig he has ever driven . I've found in the 17 years that ive been driving 80 s that these rigs can have the best of both worlds with a few smart mods . This is number one for my trucks.

 

[Vanny]

I look at getting this done, then I saw the costs involved and said screw that!

To each their own I suppose

Half the cost of two birfs from Toyota Canada an that includes two Longfields.

 

[MonsterCruiser]

Trigger pulled...Kit from Marks with Aisins.

 

[BCR4619]

Half the cost of two birfs from Toyota Canada an that includes two Longfields.

Guess what you use your truck for... Ive rebuilt my dads ones and he is over 300k on his HDJ81.... I have rebuilt my truck once also, and Toyota Canada, whats that? lol

 

[Cruisin']

Since you've already committed and bought the parts MonsterCruiser, this is too late, but I'll thrown in my $.02 anyhow, might help others decide.

I was considering going part time when I put in my 3:1 low range gears, since I'd be into the t-case anyhow. I drove it around with no front driveshaft for a few weeks to see if I preferred the feel. I did not. For my use (DD and wheeling) I prefer the AWD, and find it nice to have especially on slushy roads etc. I've had similar experiences to Lance with being pleased to have the AWD when the truck starts to get away on me on gravel or slush and I can pull it back in line with the throttle since the front wheels are pulling too.

As for maintenance/wear, I'm at 280,000km now. I did a front end rebuild at about 210,000km. I did the job because I had to replace the spindles and figured since I was in that far I may as well do the whole job. Everything was in such good shape that I could have left it for at least another 100,000km and probably more. I'm 70,000km after the rebuild and everything is still great, and I'm not even considering having to go back in there for at least another 100,000km. I pump a bunch of Moly grease (12 pumps) into the knuckles at every oil change, and all is good. I have heard anecdotally that the 93+ trucks with the viscous coupler in the t-case are harder on the front ends than the early ones like mine that are fully open when the t-case is not locked. For those with a newer truck removing the VC might be a good way to increase the front axle maintenance interval.

And of course the classic disclaimer, your experience may vary...

 

[Enigma]

I'm a purist and detest modifying my land Cruisers from Toyota's original design. They knew what they were doing so why why mess with what works perfectly fine from the factory.

 

[Vanny]

I'm a purist and detest modifying my land Cruisers from Toyota's original design. They knew what they were doing so why why mess with what works perfectly fine from the factory.

Because Toyota Canada wanted to 'take advantage of me like a Graham on a Lance' for new birfs.

 

[MonsterCruiser]

Thanks all. I appreciate all the input. One thing I find surprising is how firm people are on either having 2wd or AWD. I have purchased the parts, but that doesn't mean I HAVE to go through with the conversion. Most of what you guys have said I've already considered. Especially the extra safety/security of having the AWD. However, the best thing you can do is have appropriate tires and drive your vehicle according to the road conditions and your vehicle's ability. Of course that doesn't mean you are 100% safe since accidents and mistakes happen.

The safety and security of AWD is why I decided to stick with it last time I had the front end rebuild done. As previously mentioned, having to do the rebuild again so soon after the last I likely stick with the conversion just to try and reduce the amount of wear on the front end. I commute through the city every day which likely takes it's toll on the front end.

 

[gofast]

I did it - marks kit, abs relocation. I am happy to report that my truck is vibe free with a four inch lift and nimble to steer. I got it to reduce vibes or I would not have bothered

The tcase install was done by others but the abs relocation was done by me. Not too
difficult

No mileage gains but yay, it handles like a dream.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Even with the DC up front you were getting drive line vibe?? holy crap!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Even with the DC up front you were getting drive line vibe?? holy crap!

Even with a DC you only have a VERY small window for it to work with the correct lift and caster. Most DC are not in the window and only mask the vibs until you reach RPM. Part time takes all the guess work out.

 

[gofast]

Yup .... what Phil said

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

So can we conclude that the OME offset bushings for the 2 1/2" lift (provides 0.4-0.2 positive castor) are designed to provide limited castor correction rather than the full FSM castor correction (2-4 degrees) as as to avoid a more serous issue of front drive vibe, but at at the cost of poor tracking relative to stock castor of the pre-lifted truck?

 

[MonsterCruiser]

FAST!!!...here already

Just ordered tie rod ends and some other stuff through Onur, so I'll wait for that to get here before I get it booked at the shop.

 

[sailor]

What did the hubs set you back if you dont mind me asking?

 

[MonsterCruiser]

I could only do it by estimate. I tried piecing the kit together from various suppliers, but it would have been more expensive. By my estimate it was about $450 CAD for the Aisin free wheel hubs through Marks.

*Edit:

Just looked at the invoice included with the package rather than the kit price from the website and the price for the hubs was separated out at $390 AUD. Cruiserparts.net is something like $250 USD for the pair.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I could only do it by estimate. I tried piecing the kit together from various suppliers, but it would have been more expensive. By my estimate it was about $450 CAD for the Aisin free wheel hubs through Marks.

*Edit:

Just looked at the invoice included with the package rather than the kit price from the website and the price for the hubs was separated out at $390 AUD. Cruiserparts.net is something like $250 USD for the pair.

Crusierparts normally have a standing discount code for IH8mud guys also.

 

[wrongway around]

Sidetrack sorry ,, but Glenn don't let the numbers fool you I've seen quite a few before and after on the machine . It all looks good on paper but it's only a numbers game till you see the real numbers before and after on the machine. You might find your truck an oddball really cause these kits you speek of are not specific lhd to rhd new axle turn to old axle turn . Yes they are different . I've been running the Lexus axles my last couple of trucks and the castor correction bushings did what they said but never on my original rhd axles. I'd be checking your caster before you buy what the seller says you need as you know anything can be worded to make themselves look good.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

"Even with a DC you only have a VERY small window for it to work with the correct lift and caster. Most DC are not in the window and only mask the vibs until you reach RPM. Part time takes all the guess work out."

Dig some more digging...
Regarding the issue of drive line vibe from a double carden DC this would come from the u-joint at bottom of the shaft.
The only way a single u-joint will run smoothly is at a near 0º degree operating angle. Any non-zero angle of a single u-joint will induce rotational vibration, even if the double u-joint at the top is running smooth. This would mean you can't just install a DC without making sure you have the front pinion pointing directly up at the transfer output resulting in the single u-joint running at near 0º, that is almost straight. In practice the operating angle of the single u-joint needs to be around 0.5º to 1º to let the needle bearings rotate to allow lubrication, since with no relative motion the grease will not flow and the needle bearings never move properly and the bearings just sit and can cause brinelling in the races.

This I believe explains why a DC will not solve all drive line vibration problems, unless the castor is dialed in to produce a near 0º operating angle for the front u-joint, which I am guessing would be 4º or more - anyone make a better guess?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

"Even with a DC you only have a VERY small window for it to work with the correct lift and caster. Most DC are not in the window and only mask the vibs until you reach RPM. Part time takes all the guess work out."

Dig some more digging...
Regarding the issue of drive line vibe from a double carden DC this would come from the u-joint at bottom of the shaft.
The only way a single u-joint will run smoothly is at a near 0º degree operating angle. Any non-zero angle of a single u-joint will induce rotational vibration, even if the double u-joint at the top is running smooth. This would mean you can't just install a DC without making sure you have the front pinion pointing directly up at the transfer output resulting in the single u-joint running at near 0º, that is almost straight. In practice the operating angle of the single u-joint needs to be around 0.5º to 1º to let the needle bearings rotate to allow lubrication, since with no relative motion the grease will not flow and the needle bearings never move properly and the bearings just sit and can cause brinelling in the races.

This I believe explains why a DC will not solve all drive line vibration problems, unless the castor is dialed in to produce a near 0º operating angle for the front u-joint, which I am guessing would be 4º or more - anyone make a better guess?

IIRC the window is around ~5" of lift. BTDT. Now ILVP/T

If you are dead set on making it work you will need to consider cut and turn and relocation of the tie rod to the front to keep the lift down and be vib free.......hopefully