80 Series Hood Prop Rod

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I just use my sons old t ball bat. And I haven't died yet. I have spent thousands on bumpers, tires, rims, shocks, radio, speakers, sub woofer, and the list goes on. But I just can't bite the bullet and order the 20 dollar struts from Amazon even though they have been in my cart for months now.
 
What cheap ass wouldn't get struts?
 
I went with a 60 hood prop after adding hood vents. I felt the hood was weakened, eventually I would like to re-enforce it on the outside rib where the strut attaches.
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ThomasMore66 said:
L
I did
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Then why are you asking rhetorical, off-topic questions about struts in a threads titled "80 Series Hood Prop Rod"?

Try being short with a lifted truck.
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So struts win, subjectively, for short guys. Maybe you should make a thread about short people problems. I don't know how you reach the hood to pull it down if you can't put a rod into place, but whatever.
 
ThomasMore66 said:
What cheap ass wouldn't get struts?
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The guy that burns $60 on a prop rod, rather than $25-30 on hood struts.

(I thought I paid Dan $50, maybe that was my rear tail hatch ones, IDK anymore as I've had it so long it all runs together)

I'm liking that idea @Dragos80 posted - perfect solution really - cheap, windproof, and doesn't put a rod up in your way there on the core support. Heck, you could toss that chunk of PVC in front the battery when not hood up.

It would even be a nice insurance policy for guys who bedliner the hood, adding the weight.

I'm ripping off that PVC idea - if you are going to blow $60 on a 80, get a cool mod like a hand throttle, saves your butt when winching or jumpstarting a stranded buddy.
 
LINUS said:
The guy that burns $60 on a prop rod, rather than $25-30 on hood struts.

(I thought I paid Dan $50, maybe that was my rear tail hatch ones, IDK anymore as I've had it so long it all runs together)

I'm liking that idea @Dragos80 posted - perfect solution really - cheap, windproof, and doesn't put a rod up in your way there on the core support. Heck, you could toss that chunk of PVC in front the battery when not hood up.

It would even be a nice insurance policy for guys who bedliner the hood, adding the weight.

I'm ripping off that PVC idea - if you are going to blow $60 on a 80, get a cool mod like a hand throttle, saves your butt when winching or jumpstarting a stranded buddy.
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The channel I cut lengthwise is very narrow, making for a very tight fit. There is no change that thing will fall out. You have to snap in.
Of course I measured by the eye and cut it using a hacksaw. It's all engineer grade or above.
 
This is my solution to the ailing performance of the struts. I learned this trick from the dyno operator who couldn't keep my hood up :o $3 mini vice-grip at HF. I'm thinking of making a little holster for it on that bare spot on the firewall/cowl area. Don't mind the missing hood bolt--junkyard hood going to the scrap recycler as soon as I can find an affordable replacement.
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LINUS said:
The guy that burns $60 on a prop rod, rather than $25-30 on hood struts.

(I thought I paid Dan $50, maybe that was my rear tail hatch ones, IDK anymore as I've had it so long it all runs together)

I'm liking that idea @Dragos80 posted - perfect solution really - cheap, windproof, and doesn't put a rod up in your way there on the core support. Heck, you could toss that chunk of PVC in front the battery when not hood up.

It would even be a nice insurance policy for guys who bedliner the hood, adding the weight.

I'm ripping off that PVC idea - if you are going to blow $60 on a 80, get a cool mod like a hand throttle, saves your butt when winching or jumpstarting a stranded buddy.
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i started using a modified version of that pvc tube as well. turns out PEX is more flexible in cold weather than PVC and you can cut it with a razor knife. i use it to hold my rear gate up, those lift struts are shot to hell and i have other things for the 80 that are higher on the priority list. anyway, just my $.02. i also drilled a couple of holes opposite to the slice in the tube and ran a loop of paracord through the two holes, now taking it off is even easier than putting it on.
 
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ppc said:
Cutting a small "V" at the end of the slits/slots of the PVC or PEX makes it much easier to install as well.
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yep, i did that after i realized how hard it would be to snap on without the "V" cut. good to know that great minds still think alike!
 
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SOLD - I have a NOS series 80 prop rod (part number 53451-60010) is someone is interested.
Scott
 
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