80 series getting hot on slow climbs. Not cool!
- Thread starter Brian Maenpaa
- Start date
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Park it on a slight incline, nose up, preferably cold. Check the level in the overflow tank, filling it to the cold full line. Remove the radiator cap and and make sure the radiator is full, open the heater valve and start it and let it run until you are up to temp and know the thermostat is open. Any bubbles should purge themselves out the top of the radiator. Shut it down and cap the radiator. Check the overflow tank again after its cold again.
If you are having to refill the overflow after you know its been burped, then you are likely losing coolant elsewhere. Hoses are the quickest to check, make sure to include the PHH and intake manifold hose. A failing head gasket can also cause a loss of coolant, I know that from experience.
- Thread starter
- #23
Awesome. Will do. Thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #24
A side story...I was wheeling last year and had just finished a long slow climb and decided to take a break on some flat ground. I got out and noticed a puddle under the rear of the engine. Coolant! This is when I first learned of the intake manifold hose. Took a while to locate the leak. Took even longer to disassemble the manifold and replace it on the trail with some spare hose. The original hose burst at the top completely out of site under the manifold. It's all part of the adventure!
For those of you with lifted rigs, I might suggest buying one of these Thule Wheel Steps...
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It's aluminum, adjustable and collapses into it's own pouch. Great traction even when it's wet.
Thanks again everyone.
For those of you with lifted rigs, I might suggest buying one of these Thule Wheel Steps...
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Thanks again everyone.
jack the front end of the engine up, open the cap so that it is at the highest point....start the truck and turn the heat on full blast and wait for bubbles to escape...occasionally squeeze the top radiator hose to let more air/bubble out and fill the radiator with more distilled water or coolant. After about 5-10 mins. increase your idle to about 2-3k for about 5-10 second at a time...Put the cap back on and watch the engine temp gets up to 180F or so. Fill the overflow to max level and you are done. Keep an eye on your overflow bottle for the next few days, add coolant as needed.
The coolant system self bleeds.
Radiator should be filled to the top of the filler neck, and the overflow bottle should be filled to the full line.
After the first drive cycle, check levels with a COLD NON RUNNING ENGINE. Top off as needed.
Level should stabilize as any air will work it's way back to the radiator.
Overflow level will rise and fall with engine temp assuming the radiator cap is working and there are no leaks in the system.
Radiator should be filled to the top of the filler neck, and the overflow bottle should be filled to the full line.
After the first drive cycle, check levels with a COLD NON RUNNING ENGINE. Top off as needed.
Level should stabilize as any air will work it's way back to the radiator.
Overflow level will rise and fall with engine temp assuming the radiator cap is working and there are no leaks in the system.
- Thread starter
- #27
Ok, So I replaced the thermostat, added insulation strips around the radiator and most importantly, installed the AISIN Blue fan clutch.
Wow, I turned it over and now hear the small cat sucking power I vaguely remember from days of yore.
Of course every single nut on the fan shroud had to be removed with vice grips after 30 years. I noticed that the new clutch body is deeper, so the fan is slightly closer to the radiator. I expect that makes it somewhat more effective too. Thanks to everyone for their help. I'll ping back after my next summer trip.
BTW, for those of you who spotted it, the notoriously fragile radiator nipple has been protect with this 3d printed block from SOLVEFUNCTION
Delta Vehicle Systems - SolveFunction 3D-printed 1FZ Radiator Nipple Protector - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/3d-printed-1fz-radiator-nipple-protector $24.
Very cool.
Wow, I turned it over and now hear the small cat sucking power I vaguely remember from days of yore.
Of course every single nut on the fan shroud had to be removed with vice grips after 30 years. I noticed that the new clutch body is deeper, so the fan is slightly closer to the radiator. I expect that makes it somewhat more effective too. Thanks to everyone for their help. I'll ping back after my next summer trip.
BTW, for those of you who spotted it, the notoriously fragile radiator nipple has been protect with this 3d printed block from SOLVEFUNCTION
Delta Vehicle Systems - SolveFunction 3D-printed 1FZ Radiator Nipple Protector - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/3d-printed-1fz-radiator-nipple-protector $24.
Very cool.