80 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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Scan gauge only. Did not put any parameters in. I was getting 13 mpg in town with the 345s & stock gears. I got 12.5 when i went to 4.88s. No scan gauge then., i used GPS for mileage.
 
When i am doing 70 on speedo gps says. 73-74 mph . 80 on speedo 82 on gps .
 
Exhaust

The exhaust on my 80 is in rough shape...beat to hell, loose in the hangers, rattling against just about everything under the truck, and almost completely rusted out. Any chance this system can be tucked in higher to the body and routed above the frame? It seems pretty low. Also, would it be blasphemous to ask about deleting the cat (my truck only has one, so I'm guessing the PO tried to address this as well).

Anyone have a local exhaust shop they like?
 
The exhaust on my 80 is in rough shape...beat to hell, loose in the hangers, rattling against just about everything under the truck, and almost completely rusted out. Any chance this system can be tucked in higher to the body and routed above the frame? It seems pretty low. Also, would it be blasphemous to ask about deleting the cat (my truck only has one, so I'm guessing the PO tried to address this as well). Anyone have a local exhaust shop they like?

Burt's Masterbend JT is who we use.
He's a beer drinker you might talk him into it for a price.
He does good work.
In crossgates
 
Liftgate Struts - Lift Supports Depot

http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-...TA&model=Land+Cruiser&year=1994&type=Liftgate

Saw a link for these in my search for replacements under the OEM price that I consider a tad high for struts even from CDan. They did indeed bolt straight on w/o the drill out and bracket swap thing being required. So nice to not be using my head as the lift rest any longer. $51 to the door.
 
Performed a little Maintenance and troubleshooting today.

I have decided to pass on my specific skill to Rob … so while trying to figure out why my center diff lock would not lock he checked the CDL indicator switch and in the process broke the plastic part of it. I would have definitely did the same thing. These connectors get brittle after awhile. I already took out a knock sensor while changing the starter awhile back ; (

Anyway after further testing we confirmed that it was the switch that was faulty and needed to be replaced. Ya see i would have broken something else and made the fix project longer and more expensive and trained pro like Rob breaks what is already is broken.. contained chaos.

I spread the love.

I also changed out a bent lower control arm and fixed a rattle. turns out the rubber "harmonic balancer" thingy on the side of the tcase was rubbing on one of my IPOR skid plate braces.. I put a wooden wedge in there to shift it away from the brace.

A U joint was making some noise in rear driveshaft so I replaced it with my spare driveshaft. I hate dealing with U joints.

This is when I truly miss my lift : (
 
137,000.
My baby is gettin wrinkles..
: (
 
Update on my 80 center diff lock issue.

Changed the switch that that indicates that the center diff lock is engaged.

now every thing is hunky dorry..
now i can engage both front and rear lockers :)

Center diff lock motor worked fine. you can hear it engage when i hit the switch.
 
This is probably common knowledge for y'all 80 folk...

...the Duralast brand tie-rod ends at Autozone are re-boxed Made-in-Japan 555 parts. $25 apiece with lifetime replacement warranty.

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FJ60Cam said:
This is probably common knowledge for y'all 80 folk... ...the Duralast brand tie-rod ends at Autozone are re-boxed Made-in-Japan 555 parts. $25 apiece with lifetime replacement warranty.


That's good to know.
 
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