80 guy asking (hopefully not dumb) questions about 200

[DocuDude]

Looking at the 200.
Doing that deep search for all the things I care about.
So my few 200 questions:

Do the 3rd row side windows open at all? (If not, are there mods, international options to install?)

Has anyone's automatic 3rd row seats stopped working? (If so, can you just raise/lower it manually, or are you screwed if you are out in the boonies?)

I wrench to a certain degree on my 80 (radiator, phh, rebuild starter, power steering pump, 2 banana type stuff)....Is the 200 too complex for that type of stuff? Will I be paying a mechanic to do these things, or is it more that current 200 owners have more disposable income and as the 200s age, us middle class guys will build a library of wrenching help like we have in the 80 section)

thanks

 

[M1911]

Do the 3rd row side windows open at all? (If not, are there mods, international options to install?)

Nope.

Has anyone's automatic 3rd row seats stopped working? (If so, can you just raise/lower it manually, or are you screwed if you are out in the boonies?)

The 2nd and 3rd row seats on the Land Cruiser are manual. I think the LX has powered 2nd and 3rd row seats, but I'm not sure on that. I think you are worrying needlessly.

I wrench to a certain degree on my 80 (radiator, phh, rebuild starter, power steering pump, 2 banana type stuff)....Is the 200 too complex for that type of stuff? Will I be paying a mechanic to do these things, or is it more that current 200 owners have more disposable income and as the 200s age, us middle class guys will build a library of wrenching help like we have in the 80 section)

I've heard of some folks having to replace the radiator after 100k miles. I haven't heard of anyone having to replace the other items that you mentioned. I can't comment on the difficulty of wrenching on the 200, other than that the engine bay looks rather crowded to me.

I've got 70k on my 2013. I bought it with 28k. When I got it, the front defroster wasn't working. That was repaired under warranty.

Here are the things that have broken since then: none, nada, and zippo.

Other than the defroster, it has been nothing but regular maintenance for me -- brakes when needed, lube, oil, filter, change diff fluid, etc. I pay an independent to do that, and even here in MA it hasn't been very expensive. I could do a lube, oil, and filter myself, but I choose not to. YMMV.

 

[grinchy]

Well there are lots of Ecus but they seem mainly pretty reliable. Definitely more nannies and what not that are on all newer cars.

It has lots of airbags too.

 

[Markuson]

You can order rear windows that fold outward/up from Australia...but it will set you back about $800-1000 per window. Probably wouldn’t want to drive with it sticking out...

The standard items that fail on 200’s (radiator, water pump, starter) all tend to hit around 7-9 years in or 100-125k. Those are fairly regularly replaced by owners, though I had Totota replace mine.

 

[UCrazyKid]

For trouble shooting and servicing the 200 it is possible to buy a Mini VCI cable and run the Toyota Techstream s/w on a laptop at home. They are available on eBay and Amazon. Look for firmware version 2.0.4 cable to be able to do all things with the newer models.

 

[TexAZ]

I wrench to a certain degree on my 80 (radiator, phh, rebuild starter, power steering pump, 2 banana type stuff)....Is the 200 too complex for that type of stuff? Will I be paying a mechanic to do these things, or is it more that current 200 owners have more disposable income and as the 200s age, us middle class guys will build a library of wrenching help like we have in the 80 section)

If you can do these types of jobs on an 80, you can do them on the 200.
most of the common items that fail have write-ups in the forum. if not, someone has done it and will help walk you through it.

Many people unfamiliar with the KDSS are intimidated by it and elect not to work on suspension stuff. Truth of the matter, so long as you don't accidently unscrew the bypass plugs, it is jus an extra mechanical arm that gets in the way.

Due to the higher buy in to get a 200, the group of owners tend to be more affluent and can afford to have people work on their trucks.
Since the early models are 10 yrs old now and the prices are coming down, more budget minded shade tree mechanics are jumping into the mix. (that's how I snuck in )

If you get the chance, find a lifted 200 and take a ride in it. The engine will be the first "whoa" thing you'll notice. these trucks can move!
if you get to ride for any length of time, you'll start to see the quality and comfort of the interior. And if you are lucky enough to catch a ride somewhere to stretch the suspension, you'll be surprised how well the IFS and KDSS work getting the fat girl through just about anything a mildly built 80 can do.

 

[Mogwai]

I

Looking at the 200.
Doing that deep search for all the things I care about.
So my few 200 questions:

Do the 3rd row side windows open at all? (If not, are there mods, international options to install?)

Has anyone's automatic 3rd row seats stopped working? (If so, can you just raise/lower it manually, or are you screwed if you are out in the boonies?)

I wrench to a certain degree on my 80 (radiator, phh, rebuild starter, power steering pump, 2 banana type stuff)....Is the 200 too complex for that type of stuff? Will I be paying a mechanic to do these things, or is it more that current 200 owners have more disposable income and as the 200s age, us middle class guys will build a library of wrenching help like we have in the 80 section)

thanks

I've got lots of buddies who have 80s, seems like they are working on their trucks quite frequently, and always watching temps on the trail! I've done my water pump and related items, but not yet the radiator or starter, hoping for a few more years. Also did my suspension and Tundra front end conversion, and I have very little mechanical experience but can follow a YouTube or service manual like anyone else. You should have no issues working on the truck just because its newer. 2013 here with 104k miles.

 

[Romer]

I know a thing or two about 80's Brakes, Front and rear axle, Oil and fluid changes, spark plugs and many more are all able to be done. Nice thing about IFS is its a lot easier than doing a front axle job on an 80

Brakes are really the same

The oil filter was replaced by a cartridge which is not ideal IMOP, but still easy

Brakes are actually easier as the rotor comes off by itself rather than having to do half an axle job to get to it

The rear axle is pretty much the same

Spark plugs have Packs at the end, but only need to be replaced every 100K miles. Make the job a bit more time consuming, but not all that bad

I pulled my 3rd row out when I got mine and put ARB storage drawers in its place

I have had ZERO issues in the 32 months I have owned my 200

 

[HDJdreams]

@DocuDude here is a similar thread:

An 80 guy considers a 200

I just made the jump from an 80 (and a 100) to a 200 a few months ago. My transition has hit a few bumps, but I hope finish working through the issues in the next week or two and join the chorus of happy 200 owners.

Persistent check engine lights can put you in limp mode stealing low range and traction control from you, that’s annoying! The answer seems to be get an OBD2 reader that works with your phone and clear them fast. (It’s my wife’s daily so codes didn’t get cleared fast/often enough).

It was also my introduction to IFS, which seems to me to be far more touchy about alignment than an 80. (2 deg caster on my 200 is still not enough and handles worse than my 80 with 0 deg caster because I haven’t put the bushings/plates in yet.)

 

[Rigger]

I replaced my radiator as a PM item. I had a power steering line fail. Other than that, no issues in 3-1/2 years of ownership.

Mine is an ‘08 which I bought at 89k miles.

 

[linuxgod]

@DocuDude here is a similar thread:

An 80 guy considers a 200

I just made the jump from an 80 (and a 100) to a 200 a few months ago. My transition has hit a few bumps, but I hope finish working through the issues in the next week or two and join the chorus of happy 200 owners.

Persistent check engine lights can put you in limp mode stealing low range and traction control from you, that’s annoying! The answer seems to be get an OBD2 reader that works with your phone and clear them fast. (It’s my wife’s daily so codes didn’t get cleared fast/often enough).

It was also my introduction to IFS, which seems to me to be far more touchy about alignment than an 80. (2 deg caster on my 200 is still not enough and handles worse than my 80 with 0 deg caster because I haven’t put the bushings/plates in yet.)

Front caster should be at least 3 degrees, max it out around 3.5 degrees if you can. If you're on 34s, don't go much over the limit or your PS tire will rub on the sway bar and your DS will rub the KDSS. I'm lifted 2" and I tow a 25' trailer and getting caster maxed out made a HUGE difference in the truck's handing - I get far less wandering on the highway now than I did with stock tires and stock suspension.

Most of us haven't had persistent check engine lights. It seems like a number of people who wheeled in Moab last year ended up with them though. Plenty of guys did the same trails this year and didn't have issues. I think once you get the check engine light sorted out and the alignment re-done you'll be happy with the 200. The only other semi-regular electronics issue I've seen (and experienced) in the forums is the dreaded flashing CDL light, which seems to happen in cooler temps. It doesn't put the truck in limp mode (4Hi still works fine), but 4Lo and the CDL won't work when this happens. Warm up the transfer case and restart the engine and it seems to go away though (others have said regularly exercising the CDL and 4Lo seem to help, but in my experience I still get the light once in a while).

As others have said, radiator, starter, and water pump are known to give out around 100k. I did my radiator at 78k due to a crack starting to form at the top. I suspect the radiator is limited by the number of heating/cooling cycles, the water pump is mileage based and the starter is based on start cycles.

 

[HDJdreams]

@linuxgod Thanks for the tip on the alignment. I am on 34s (285/75R17 on RWs and 1.25” spacers) I am not sure what you mean by limit and 34s, should I go to 3.5 deg or stop at 3.0 deg?

I am down from 4-5 persistent (and “permanent”) codes to 1, hope to have that fixed in the next week or so.

 

[linuxgod]

What I mean by limit is stick to the Toyota specs for the alignment, but go as far positive as they permit. I think the spec maxes out at 3.7 degrees positive caster. My guy went a bit over 4 degrees which makes the steering very stable but I rub the passenger side sway bar at full left lock, enough that my wife notices when driving. I'm going to have him back it off to about 3.7 degrees which should do away with the rubbing without too negatively impacting handling. I have 34s (might be the same tire... Nitto RG) and +25 offset wheels (which is only slightly more offset as +50 RWs - 1.25" should put you around +18 offset)

I'm pretty sure TonyP's rig had adjustable UCAs, so if the cam bolts alone won't get you to 3.7 then have the alignment tech loosen the UCA bolt and add +1 degree, then retorque to ~150#/ft. Use the cam bolts to fine tune. SPC has an instruction sheet available online if you need it. I'm at +2deg on the UCA and ~2.3 on the cam bolts - the "default" SPC UCA setting is +1deg out of the box. If it doesn't have adjustable UCAs you're likely going to struggle to get to or above 3 degrees.