78 FJ40 - Clutch slave cylinder failure

[70fj40]

If you don’t already have the tools to fix this yourself you can probably call cruisermatt above and buy a new hardline with the proper fitting already on it for your master. Quick easy and probably cheaper than buying the tools and making your own flare although cutting it and fixing it is easy too.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Next time you change the master cylinder - cut a screw driver slot in the bolt that hides behind the brake booster. A while back I bought the master and slave plus a braded stainless steel brake hose for my 72 from joetlc on ebbay for $150. The hose was long but it was $50 cheaper than the shorter correct length hose. Been working very well. With this system screw the hose into the slave first then mount it, route the hose and then connect to the master.

 

[pb4ugo]

If the line doesnt tighten up when the nut is tight something is wrong with the nut, flare, or the threads in the master. Always double flare or find someone to do it for you.

 

[rlong]

It looks like the last threads on the end of the tube nut are stripped off.
Something is wrong with your line/flare/tube nut/threads. Most likely preventing the flare from fully seating when the tube nut is fully tightened.

You can buy all the correct parts but care and attention during assembly is even more important.

I think the master is likely bored/threaded for one of the flare nuts with the narrower unthreaded protrusion like on some of the brake cylinders. Solution is likely get one of those flare nuts, confirm it seats fully in the master then cut off old flare and install new flare nut. I have a different inverted flare tool than you show but that would probably work (only with the right nut in your case).

 

[cmcmill01]

I think the master is likely bored/threaded for one of the flare nuts with the narrower unthreaded protrusion like on some of the brake cylinders. Solution is likely get one of those flare nuts, confirm it seats fully in the master then cut off old flare and install new flare nut. I have a different inverted flare tool than you show but that would probably work (only with the right nut in your case).

A bit like this??

 

[cruisermatt]

I have had to exchange one or two MC’s in the last year for the threads not being fully machined, as if they were set up for a DIN fitting.
If that is the case contact me and we can get you squared away with another unit Craig.

 

[cmcmill01]

I have had to exchange one or two MC’s in the last year for the threads not being fully machined, as if they were set up for a DIN fitting.
If that is the case contact me and we can get you squared away with another unit Craig.

Cheers, Let me remove the MC and have a look, hope I haven’t damaged the nut trying to stop the leak.

 

[cruisermatt]

Cheers, Let me remove the MC and have a look, hope I haven’t damaged the nut trying to stop the leak.

this is what I noticed.

 

[peesalot]

FWIW I have used the 3/16 line with the oem metric ends. Orielly's has the metric & sae hard lines.