66 hj45lv*t build

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yeah, but drivetrain doesn't get swapped till i get all the rust patched up and the sliders in, so alot of work to do before i get to all the good stuff. the axles are from a 60 series, so the front frame hangers will be outboarded to accomodate the factory spring perches. the rear perches will be moved inward to the stock spring hanger locations. never considered putting coils up front. i thought about doing that in the back, since i wouldn't have to mess with steering geometry, but i think that may be more involved than i want to go with the suspension. it's something to research a little more for sure.
 
started tearing her down. drivetrain is coming out. then rust patching, firewall swap, sliders and por 15.
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got the drivetrain out. front spring hangers are outboarded(no it's not crooked). ordered my dakar springs today and have some por 15 on the way. hopefully the frontend will be finished by next weekend and i can test fit the new drivetrain so i can figure out my rear crossmember mount. been trying to get the axles sandblasted so i can paint em, but my compressor in no way comes close to keeping up. have been going back in forth between doing a saginaw or mini truck. right now i'm leaning towards the mini truck cuz i'm only running 33's and it's less overall work. plus, i'm not sure i would be able to fit the pump to the engine. opinions on the power steering are welcome.
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i sandblasted, coated with por15 and mounted the 60series axle with ome 2.5 springs. also got the firewall and front of the frame cleaned and put a coat of por15 on it. got my bracket from b dorrey and a minitruck box, so next i'll finish the power steering mods. i've got the bushing and firewall plate to keep the original steering column and wheel. i hope the steering rod that runs from the box to the center arm will fit behind the shock. it looks tight, so i may have to outboard the shock a little. if i finish the power steering this week, hopefully i can drop the engine in next week and get my rear crossmember figured out. then i can finish cleaning up the frame and underside and coat it with por15.
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Chef said:
signed on to see how you do the steering.
curious about the firewall plate and such to keep the stock column...?
Click to expand...

i'll be sure and take some good pics. basically it's a plate that bolts to the firewall and i'll weld the steering column tube to it. there is then a bushing that sits inside the column tube to hold the shaft in place. the end of the shaft goes into a borgeson joint that fits on the end of the minitruck box. the rest you probably know.
 
wow, that looks thick!
kurt's great to deal with eh?

I don't like the idea of welding it for the degree of difficulty added for serviceing it later if needed; or just removing it. I guess I'd be ok with a couple of small strategically placed tack welds...I sure wouldn't run a bead all the way around it!
 
Chef said:
wow, that looks thick!
kurt's great to deal with eh?

I don't like the idea of welding it for the degree of difficulty added for serviceing it later if needed; or just removing it. I guess I'd be ok with a couple of small strategically placed tack welds...I sure wouldn't run a bead all the way around it!
Click to expand...

yes, he is.

and i agree with you there, but i think there should be something to keep the tube from turning. since it's been cut free from the steering box it is just floating in there.
 
i have the power steering pump. i think i can see it in the back of the picture on post #38. i'm definately using the stock pump. i've got a resevoir off of a 60 series.

i was just reading somewhere else where people questioned the strength of the early style center arm with power steering. i'm not planning on wheeling this baby real hard. but i'ld hate for the frame rail to bend on me. what do you guys think about that? anybody even have the early style center arm with power steering?
 
i did a little more work on the power steering. i had to drill out the bushing slightly and i had to open up the firewall plate a little also. i "machined" a double d on the end of the steering shaft and drilled 4 holes to bolt the fire wall plate to the firewall. it's kind of ugly because this truck used to be right hand drive. right now the steering shaft tube is just floating in there, so it will definitely be welded to the firewall plate. also, it makes me a little nervous that the only thing holding the steering shaft in the tube are the little set screws in the borgeson joint. i believe i will drill a hole in the shaft right by the bronze bushing and put a roll pin through it to keep the bushing from working its way out and also to keep the shaft from being pulled out through the cab. if there is a better way to handle this, i'm all ears.
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Going with the 2H's stock p/s pump will likely mean that the lower inlet neck of the radiator will need to be re-angled to clear the vane pump pulley. I had mine angled out about 40˚, oriented to the 2:00 position, when i had the re-core done, and it took a couple of attempts before the neck was positioned where it needed to be. That is going with the stock 47 series radiator, which is a couple of inches wider than the FJ or BJ 40 series rads.

I found an HJ60 series power steering hi-pressure line could be rebent to fit on a 40 chassis, so that's what I did, as it made connecting to the pump quite simple. I located my p/s reservoir on the driver's side inner fender (LHD, that is)

Which rad are you planning to use?
 
boy, i am slowwwwwwwwwwwwwww..........

got the 2h in. motor mounts fit nicely. the big auto will require cutting the floor to allow me to mount it high enough. i have the stock crossmember, so i'm gonna use it as a guide for height placement. gonna mount it right close to the frame.
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