5MPG Gain Possilbe?
- Thread starter Radd Cruisers
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wow............ that's more than my fj40 on "propaine" (lpg) which uses more than petrol...
and about twice as much as my hj45 fully loaded with 5 people and gear for a week camping, and the 60l water tank full.......
i think we should start a diesel exchange program for you guys in the states
and about twice as much as my hj45 fully loaded with 5 people and gear for a week camping, and the 60l water tank full.......
i think we should start a diesel exchange program for you guys in the states
not sure how easy it is going to be to improve on the OEM ignition components
here is my old rotor and new rotor side by side interesting looking coating. I went through the receipts I cannot find where it has ever been changed so that may be what the original rotor looks liek after 100k miles. the wires were original (dated 1996)
here is my old rotor and new rotor side by side interesting looking coating. I went through the receipts I cannot find where it has ever been changed so that may be what the original rotor looks liek after 100k miles. the wires were original (dated 1996)
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[quote author=bad_religion_au link=board=2;threadid=11597;start=msg105902#msg105902 date=1076981108]
and quit talking in old speak, quote consumption in internationally recognised jargon, number of Litres per 100km
[/quote]
Generally, I love metric (I'm in the generations where metric was just being put into place in Canada), although I've always found the l/100KM to be strange ???. It may be great re consumption, but it does very little to tell me when I'm going to run out of gas (vs. I have a tank that hold x litres and I get ykm/litre, so....).
I installed a 'flexible' trip computer on my motorcycle that (to the last drop as it takes a signal from the fuel injectors) tells me when I'm out of gas. This has the ability to report all standard fuel consumption data as well as KM/Litre
Cheers, Hugh
and quit talking in old speak, quote consumption in internationally recognised jargon, number of Litres per 100km
[/quote]
Generally, I love metric (I'm in the generations where metric was just being put into place in Canada), although I've always found the l/100KM to be strange ???. It may be great re consumption, but it does very little to tell me when I'm going to run out of gas (vs. I have a tank that hold x litres and I get ykm/litre, so....).
I installed a 'flexible' trip computer on my motorcycle that (to the last drop as it takes a signal from the fuel injectors) tells me when I'm out of gas. This has the ability to report all standard fuel consumption data as well as KM/Litre
Cheers, Hugh
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- #27
Now thats what I am talking about, worn ignition parts.
There was a product a couple years ago that you could attach too the coil and it would control how long the spark was produced and increased the voltage for a better spark.
Now I think the product was developed for the older cars and not sure of the implicatins of the ECU and how it would work on a cruiser. They were claiming a good 3 plus MPG and crisper throttle respones.,
I will start the iginition change and if I find something to run on the ignition to help I will follow up later with a little blurb. We will also have the injectors cleaned by reputable shop.
Hmmm, I have a CT26 on the shelf off a Supra that is rebuilt and ready to install. Originally it was for my BJ42 then my BJ60 and I have heard mixed results, sounds like the design of the wheel on that unit is better suited to higher reving engines. Maybe it would be a good fit for the wifes 80?
Thanks
Rob
There was a product a couple years ago that you could attach too the coil and it would control how long the spark was produced and increased the voltage for a better spark.
Now I think the product was developed for the older cars and not sure of the implicatins of the ECU and how it would work on a cruiser. They were claiming a good 3 plus MPG and crisper throttle respones.,
I will start the iginition change and if I find something to run on the ignition to help I will follow up later with a little blurb. We will also have the injectors cleaned by reputable shop.
Hmmm, I have a CT26 on the shelf off a Supra that is rebuilt and ready to install. Originally it was for my BJ42 then my BJ60 and I have heard mixed results, sounds like the design of the wheel on that unit is better suited to higher reving engines. Maybe it would be a good fit for the wifes 80?
Thanks
Rob
[quote author=raventai link=board=2;threadid=11597;start=msg106813#msg106813 date=1077122430]
not sure how easy it is going to be to improve on the OEM ignition components
here is my old rotor and new rotor side by side interesting looking coating. I went through the receipts I cannot find where it has ever been changed so that may be what the original rotor looks liek after 100k miles. the wires were original (dated 1996)
[/quote]
The OEM distributor rotor is coated from the factory with a supression goop of some kind, it is normal.
not sure how easy it is going to be to improve on the OEM ignition components
here is my old rotor and new rotor side by side interesting looking coating. I went through the receipts I cannot find where it has ever been changed so that may be what the original rotor looks liek after 100k miles. the wires were original (dated 1996)
[/quote]
The OEM distributor rotor is coated from the factory with a supression goop of some kind, it is normal.
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I have heard C-Dans pricing is some of the best, not sure if it would be a good purchase with duties, brokerage fees etc.
We do however need a Chasis and Engine manual along with the ignition parts, what do ya say Dan.
Rob
We do however need a Chasis and Engine manual along with the ignition parts, what do ya say Dan.
Rob
My '97 was rated at 15mpg highway when new. I think that's at 55mph on level track, lightly loaded, fairly ideal mechanical and environmental conditions. Mpg was a big concern to Toy when they built it, and they didn't skimp on quality components. Jumping your rig from 12 to 17mpg sounds unlikely or at least difficult and expensive. I've calculated over 16 on long trips, heavily loaded with a big roof carrier. I doubt that was true, but I sure want to believe it. You'll probably get some improvement with tuning, but it's still shaped like a brick. Lowering and adding ground effects will get more mileage per dollar than engine enhancements, but then why own a cruiser?
I lost 10mpg from my Audi to this. It's kind of a chunk of money, but it's worth it! I hit my fifth deer in it, drove through dangerous snowstorms, slept and camped in it, my wife's been rear-ended twice in hers, my family has been kept safe in both. A kid in a suburban was just killed by a hummer here, our odds are better than in a Neon, and I'm paying for it. I have a big bumper for deer, wish I had big tires, but try to stay practical.
I lost 10mpg from my Audi to this. It's kind of a chunk of money, but it's worth it! I hit my fifth deer in it, drove through dangerous snowstorms, slept and camped in it, my wife's been rear-ended twice in hers, my family has been kept safe in both. A kid in a suburban was just killed by a hummer here, our odds are better than in a Neon, and I'm paying for it. I have a big bumper for deer, wish I had big tires, but try to stay practical.
I get 12 mpg at betwen 80 and 85, and I get 15 to 16 with the cruise control set at 75. One time, driving about 60 on an icy road with a 30 mph tail wind, I got 21 mpg. Serious.
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how about everytime i run in reverse, my fuel tank fills up. but it only works if i reverse down a road i have driven before
Steve,
Have you factored in the 6% difference in the odo? You actually travelled farther than your odo measured unless you've recently installed the correction gear in the transfer case.
-B-
Have you factored in the 6% difference in the odo? You actually travelled farther than your odo measured unless you've recently installed the correction gear in the transfer case.
-B-
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=11597;start=msg106846#msg106846 date=1077125704]
The OEM distributor rotor is coated from the factory with a supression goop of some kind, it is normal.
[/quote]
sory did not mean to imply it was not normal, what ever that stuff it it looks like it works,
The OEM distributor rotor is coated from the factory with a supression goop of some kind, it is normal.
[/quote]
sory did not mean to imply it was not normal, what ever that stuff it it looks like it works,
Our typical hwy MPG is 16-17 MPG with one 4000 mile trip averaging 16.7 strictly highway miles. That was w/o a roof box, however. We run 5mph above the speed limits out west here, so probably average speed just under 75mph.
Stuff that would impact this strong MPG:
Stock LTX tires at 35psi
Mobil 1 in the engine
Mobil 1 synthetic in all three diffs
Mobil 1 synth grease in driveshafts and F/R wheel bearings
Use Premium gas for freeway trips
Regularly clean and replace my air filters w/ OEM
Stuff that would reduce MPG:
Our lights are always on
Thule roof rack always on
I've never really focused on MPG, just a maintenance freak with a nasty synthetic habit and it's a byproduct.
DougM
Stuff that would impact this strong MPG:
Stock LTX tires at 35psi
Mobil 1 in the engine
Mobil 1 synthetic in all three diffs
Mobil 1 synth grease in driveshafts and F/R wheel bearings
Use Premium gas for freeway trips
Regularly clean and replace my air filters w/ OEM
Stuff that would reduce MPG:
Our lights are always on
Thule roof rack always on
I've never really focused on MPG, just a maintenance freak with a nasty synthetic habit and it's a byproduct.
DougM
We're getting about 14 to 16 miles per gallon (converted to US gallons) but that was before the OME lift. That's a combination of my wife driving (light foot) and rarely me driving (heavy foot). Mostly country roads and light city driving.
I'll need to recheck to see if the lift has had any effect. All dino in my rig at the moment. :-[
One day I'll spend the extra $$ for synth all around after everything has been serviced (birfs and rear seals ect...)
I'll need to recheck to see if the lift has had any effect. All dino in my rig at the moment. :-[
One day I'll spend the extra $$ for synth all around after everything has been serviced (birfs and rear seals ect...)
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- #39
I was running at about 68MPH and very gentle on the gas peddle, still made no difference. We were hoping to squeeze out a couple more MPG.
Lets see what happens this month after a few changes, I will do iginition, gear oils to synthetic and draft as many semi`s as possible.
My guess is the turbo would be no help, I am sure my wife would just drive it harder.
Rob
Lets see what happens this month after a few changes, I will do iginition, gear oils to synthetic and draft as many semi`s as possible.
My guess is the turbo would be no help, I am sure my wife would just drive it harder.
Rob
[quote author=Scott M. link=board=2;threadid=11597;start=msg107079#msg107079 date=1077156393]
My '97 was rated at 15mpg highway when new. I think that's at 55mph on level track, lightly loaded, fairly ideal mechanical and environmental conditions. Mpg was a big concern to Toy when they built it, and they didn't skimp on quality components. Jumping your rig from 12 to 17mpg sounds unlikely or at least difficult and expensive. I've calculated over 16 on long trips, heavily loaded with a big roof carrier. I doubt that was true, but I sure want to believe it. You'll probably get some improvement with tuning, but it's still shaped like a brick. Lowering and adding ground effects will get more mileage per dollar than engine enhancements, but then why own a cruiser?
[/quote]
Buddy of mine w/ a 100 (CA) consistently gets 15mpg in a mix of city/hwy driving. I think the 2UZ is more efficient (especially given the extra horses) due to the modern electronics, but part of it is your 1FZ is aging. Newer V6 engines get about the same fuel econony as a 15 yr old 4-banger.
My '97 was rated at 15mpg highway when new. I think that's at 55mph on level track, lightly loaded, fairly ideal mechanical and environmental conditions. Mpg was a big concern to Toy when they built it, and they didn't skimp on quality components. Jumping your rig from 12 to 17mpg sounds unlikely or at least difficult and expensive. I've calculated over 16 on long trips, heavily loaded with a big roof carrier. I doubt that was true, but I sure want to believe it. You'll probably get some improvement with tuning, but it's still shaped like a brick. Lowering and adding ground effects will get more mileage per dollar than engine enhancements, but then why own a cruiser?
[/quote]
Buddy of mine w/ a 100 (CA) consistently gets 15mpg in a mix of city/hwy driving. I think the 2UZ is more efficient (especially given the extra horses) due to the modern electronics, but part of it is your 1FZ is aging. Newer V6 engines get about the same fuel econony as a 15 yr old 4-banger.