Build $500 1992 FJ80 Rebuild: LS Swap in Progress!
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You may want to pull the front coils out so it sits on the bump stops for engine mockup to make sure everything clears.
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- #163
That's the plan once we have the engine in & figure out placement. It needs new bump stops anyway. So I ordered a pair of -1" up-travel bump stops from Perry Parts. Those should help give additional clearance.
More progress over the last week. Not as far as originally planned, but we've been busy with work, our garden, and starting a new business on the side.
Engine mounts, plates, and bracing got the last coating of Steel-It. That stuff is fantastic and highly recommended as a weldable paint. It also has a nice finish if you don't plan to paint over it.
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- #164
This past weekend we finished cleaning & prepping the firewall & transmission tunnel for ceramic paint. I also found one more spot on the driver's side frame rail that the leaky master cylinder affected. Fortunately it was like the rest & just caused the paint to peel. So that was cleaned up and hit with rust converter.
Husband also topped off the passenger inner fender clean up with silver engine bay paint. It turned out brighter than the original finish and has a few runs, but that will be hidden by the battery box.
Husband also topped off the passenger inner fender clean up with silver engine bay paint. It turned out brighter than the original finish and has a few runs, but that will be hidden by the battery box.
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- #165
Progress doesn't feel as fast lately, but we're making headway. Thermal paint has been applied & dried. Not bad for husband's first time using a paint gun! We agreed on two thick coats of paint to help reduce as much heat as possible (in addition to the plans for insulating the interior). I'm hopeful this will help to reduce the previous issue of heat from the transmission tunnel roasting the center console and passenger area.
This dust seal was installed two years ago.
I'm looking for alternatives and have narrowed it down to the metal bearing version from Bryke Racing and SolveFunction's two-piece version.
This dust seal was installed two years ago.
I'm looking for alternatives and have narrowed it down to the metal bearing version from Bryke Racing and SolveFunction's two-piece version.
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- Thread starter
- #166
Engine assembly continues as well. The crank pulley was pretty rusty, so it got a rust converter treatment before being installed (no pics). Next up was installing the starter: oops, guess not. I forgot the solenoid housing broke when it was removed. So new starter & aluminum-bodied brake master cylinder are enroute.
This $70 booster has survived a lot since we installed it back in 2022. The latest was a replacement master cylinder that instantly flash rusted & started leaking, which resulted in peeling paint and surface rust. So it was cleaned up, rust converted, and painted. Husband also topped off the driver's side shock tower & spring mount area with the same high-temp glossy paint. We'll probably do the same to the passenger side so it matches.
This $70 booster has survived a lot since we installed it back in 2022. The latest was a replacement master cylinder that instantly flash rusted & started leaking, which resulted in peeling paint and surface rust. So it was cleaned up, rust converted, and painted. Husband also topped off the driver's side shock tower & spring mount area with the same high-temp glossy paint. We'll probably do the same to the passenger side so it matches.
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- Thread starter
- #167
I initially ordered the wrong power steering pump. It was supposed to be the type that uses a remote reservoir for added clearance, but it had a reservoir mount on the backside. So that didn't work.
We opted for this version instead and paired it with a smaller 5" pulley. I still have concerns about the inlet and outlet tubes clearing the steering box, frame, and engine block. But we'll address that when checking fitment in the engine bay.
We should have more parts coming in later this week: extended bump stops from Perry Parts, new starter & brake master cylinder, fuel fitting adapters, and a C10 Gen 3 DBW pedal & subharness from PSI Conversion. After looking at the Suburban's stock pedal angle, it wasn't going to fit in the pedal box area. And unfortunately the stock subharness doesn't work with the aftermarket pedal.
I also ordered an OEM oil pressure sending unit & adapter, GM brake booster port & hose kit, 80/LS water temp sender, DBW pedal mounting kit, and NSS/reverse light harness modification from Cruiser Matt. Looking forward to getting those in & installed.
We opted for this version instead and paired it with a smaller 5" pulley. I still have concerns about the inlet and outlet tubes clearing the steering box, frame, and engine block. But we'll address that when checking fitment in the engine bay.
We should have more parts coming in later this week: extended bump stops from Perry Parts, new starter & brake master cylinder, fuel fitting adapters, and a C10 Gen 3 DBW pedal & subharness from PSI Conversion. After looking at the Suburban's stock pedal angle, it wasn't going to fit in the pedal box area. And unfortunately the stock subharness doesn't work with the aftermarket pedal.
I also ordered an OEM oil pressure sending unit & adapter, GM brake booster port & hose kit, 80/LS water temp sender, DBW pedal mounting kit, and NSS/reverse light harness modification from Cruiser Matt. Looking forward to getting those in & installed.
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- Thread starter
- #168
More slow but steady work this past weekend.
We got the dash apart & swapped out the tachometer for a later style version from a '95-97 80 series. This not only allows for a Dakota Digital converter box to work with the tachometer, but has the benefit of a slightly higher RPM redline. Husband quickly swapped out the later orange needle for the white one from the FJ80 tachometer so it matches.
Reassembly of the dash will include new center vents, repair bushings for the broken driver's side air vent, a new cigarette lighter (if I can find it), and unbroken dash bezel upper/lower trim.
Lastly was replacing the torn lower dust seal with a metal bearing version from Bryke Racing. The metal bracket had to be trimmed slightly to fit in the firewall, but it seems to support the steering shaft better than the OEM version.
Instrument panel torn apart:
FJ80 vs FZJ80 tachometers (with needles swapped):
FZJ80 tachometer installed in FJ80 instrument cluster (or "combo meter" as Toyota calls it):
New metal bearing dust seal installed (with part of the old dust seal boot still on the steering shaft):
We got the dash apart & swapped out the tachometer for a later style version from a '95-97 80 series. This not only allows for a Dakota Digital converter box to work with the tachometer, but has the benefit of a slightly higher RPM redline. Husband quickly swapped out the later orange needle for the white one from the FJ80 tachometer so it matches.
Reassembly of the dash will include new center vents, repair bushings for the broken driver's side air vent, a new cigarette lighter (if I can find it), and unbroken dash bezel upper/lower trim.
Lastly was replacing the torn lower dust seal with a metal bearing version from Bryke Racing. The metal bracket had to be trimmed slightly to fit in the firewall, but it seems to support the steering shaft better than the OEM version.
Instrument panel torn apart:
FJ80 vs FZJ80 tachometers (with needles swapped):
FZJ80 tachometer installed in FJ80 instrument cluster (or "combo meter" as Toyota calls it):
New metal bearing dust seal installed (with part of the old dust seal boot still on the steering shaft):
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- Thread starter
- #169
Steering box, aluminum-bodied brake master cylinder, & the repainted brake booster installed.
New (unbroken) starter was installed on the LS:
We finished cleaning the build-up of grime (mix of mud, oil, and dust) off the transfer case. This was one of those times it would've been nice to have a water source for a pressure washer. But I'll take a climate controlled work space in the 100* weather over that.
I cleaned the layer of grime off the transfer case wiring as well. Just like the transfer case, there are signs of poor repair attempts from someone. If someone has an extra FJ80 or FZJ80 transfer case wiring harness sitting around, please DM me. Husband can work his magic on this if needed, but we would rather have a harness without broken connectors.
Pic of the passenger side shock tower with a coat of glossy high-temp paint to match the driver's side:
Next few steps will be installing the new torque converter in the transmission & mating up the engine, transmission, adapter, & transfer case. Our goal is to get the drivetrain the car & mock up the engine mounts.
New (unbroken) starter was installed on the LS:
We finished cleaning the build-up of grime (mix of mud, oil, and dust) off the transfer case. This was one of those times it would've been nice to have a water source for a pressure washer. But I'll take a climate controlled work space in the 100* weather over that.
I cleaned the layer of grime off the transfer case wiring as well. Just like the transfer case, there are signs of poor repair attempts from someone. If someone has an extra FJ80 or FZJ80 transfer case wiring harness sitting around, please DM me. Husband can work his magic on this if needed, but we would rather have a harness without broken connectors.
Pic of the passenger side shock tower with a coat of glossy high-temp paint to match the driver's side:
Next few steps will be installing the new torque converter in the transmission & mating up the engine, transmission, adapter, & transfer case. Our goal is to get the drivetrain the car & mock up the engine mounts.
- Thread starter
- #170
Big steps this past weekend.
Thursday husband got the new tensioner installed, removed the front springs & dropped the front axle, and repainted the flaking factory paint on the transmission crossmember. He also fed the new [unbroken] speedo cable through the body and back into the dash behind the gauge cluster.
Thursday husband got the new tensioner installed, removed the front springs & dropped the front axle, and repainted the flaking factory paint on the transmission crossmember. He also fed the new [unbroken] speedo cable through the body and back into the dash behind the gauge cluster.
- Thread starter
- #171
Friday night we got the new torque converter in the 4L80E & installed the transfer case adapter. From there the transfer case was installed & everything matched up to the engine. We got it all torqued, loctite'd, and ready for install on Saturday morning.
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- #172
Saturday's install was relatively smooth. With the help of two friends, the drivetrain was in & clearances checked within an hour. The transmission crossmember only needed to be slotted by approx 3/4" to get things in place. The cylinder heads are close to the firewall, but look doable.
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- #173
More pics. I took a lot for reference on certain areas. The engine brackets are loosely bolted to the mounts for minor adjustment before we get them tacked on. As you can see, the power steering pump outlet is resting against the steering box. I'm going to carefully try to heat that up and bend it upward for additional space.
We also jacked up the front axle to measure clearance between the engine's oil pan & tie rod bar. With the addition of Perry Parts' -1" travel bump stops, we have between 2.5-3" of clearance once the body started lifting. I know it will have less clearance on a sudden bump, but we're happy with the results.
We also jacked up the front axle to measure clearance between the engine's oil pan & tie rod bar. With the addition of Perry Parts' -1" travel bump stops, we have between 2.5-3" of clearance once the body started lifting. I know it will have less clearance on a sudden bump, but we're happy with the results.
- Thread starter
- #174
Last few pics for now.
We tried to check clearance between the front driveshaft & transmission pan, but it turns out the body of the driveshaft has a sizeable dent that limits its compression. So the driveshaft is now too long to fit back on the car with the transfer case moved 3/4" forward. Boo. I suspected a 2" diameter double cardon Tom Woods unit would be a possible need with this swap, and that confirmed it. We're going to wait until the engine brackets are tacked in before measuring & ordering a new one. That will also let us verify driveline angle.
Two other things we need to check on:
1. Exhaust clearance on the driver side. Is the engine too far over on the driver's side?
2. That center bolt on the driver's engine mount is going to be interesting. Even once we get the brackets straightened out, it may not fit. We've removed it in the meantime.
Our friend is coming back with his welder to tack the engine brackets on Thursday. So we've got some time to find answers to these questions & straighten out the brackets.
We tried to check clearance between the front driveshaft & transmission pan, but it turns out the body of the driveshaft has a sizeable dent that limits its compression. So the driveshaft is now too long to fit back on the car with the transfer case moved 3/4" forward. Boo. I suspected a 2" diameter double cardon Tom Woods unit would be a possible need with this swap, and that confirmed it. We're going to wait until the engine brackets are tacked in before measuring & ordering a new one. That will also let us verify driveline angle.
Two other things we need to check on:
1. Exhaust clearance on the driver side. Is the engine too far over on the driver's side?
2. That center bolt on the driver's engine mount is going to be interesting. Even once we get the brackets straightened out, it may not fit. We've removed it in the meantime.
Our friend is coming back with his welder to tack the engine brackets on Thursday. So we've got some time to find answers to these questions & straighten out the brackets.