I'm thinking the BIOR swing hubs are smaller bore, but just in case:
Almost done ultimate curb hopper! - pics
Almost done ultimate curb hopper! - pics
Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter REZARF
- Start date
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If you decide to get in the market for them, the owner of the company is (at least was when I organized one) willing to give group buy pricing. I think after shipping my pair was $950ish USD.
Great build and usage updates also by the way!
Great thread man. Thanks for all the wonderful posts filled with info.
Question: How is the spacer lift holding up with stock springs and all the additional weight?
Question: How is the spacer lift holding up with stock springs and all the additional weight?
- Thread starter
- #204
Thank you for the kind words, I bet I lost an inch or so with the rear bumper and hi-lift mounted up. I adjusted the front TB's to compensate. I'm likely back to just over stock height.
Drew,
I have a similar configuration for my Yaesu radio but I just changed the terminal connectors and have a dual battery system.
Do you mind sharing a photo of how you connected the power for the radio to the battery terminal? I know it's simple but I want to see if Im missing something important
Thanks in advance!
C
I have a similar configuration for my Yaesu radio but I just changed the terminal connectors and have a dual battery system.
Do you mind sharing a photo of how you connected the power for the radio to the battery terminal? I know it's simple but I want to see if Im missing something important
Thanks in advance!
C
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- Thread starter
- #207
Sorry man, I am just checking in on this, I haven't been working on the 100 much, just using it during our wheeling season. I also bought a mill and I am refurbishing that.
Here is how I connected to the battery for my HAM radio.
ATC Style Fuse Holder 10 GA with Ring Terminals and Powerpole Connectors | Powerwerx
Here is how I connected to the battery for my HAM radio.
ATC Style Fuse Holder 10 GA with Ring Terminals and Powerpole Connectors | Powerwerx
- Thread starter
- #208
Learned a rule last week, don't use the FJ40 on 35's to access the trail that you will take the 100 on to. 
Got out last week to prerun a trail for our clubs upcoming FJ40's Only Run here in Colorado. I decided to run Middle St. Vrain and Coney Flats in our Rocky Mountain high country. The trail was great, I had great company and we got to head out midweek so we only saw one other rig. My buddy just bought a really clean 100 series and I think this trail made him nervous to use it, however, I reassured him this was a little "tougher than I remembered."
The rocks were relentless and I tested all the new armor I put on... it all passed with flying colors.
Having a fun day off!
Some of the trail that was tougher than I remembered. I actually made my buddy drive it so I could spot him through the gnarly stuff, I think it stressed him out to hear the sliders working
I managed to rip my Comet SBB-5 Antenna off the mount. It pulled off the base, but as luck would have it, it threaded right back on and is working again. Jackpot!
Got out last week to prerun a trail for our clubs upcoming FJ40's Only Run here in Colorado. I decided to run Middle St. Vrain and Coney Flats in our Rocky Mountain high country. The trail was great, I had great company and we got to head out midweek so we only saw one other rig. My buddy just bought a really clean 100 series and I think this trail made him nervous to use it, however, I reassured him this was a little "tougher than I remembered."
The rocks were relentless and I tested all the new armor I put on... it all passed with flying colors.
Having a fun day off!
Some of the trail that was tougher than I remembered. I actually made my buddy drive it so I could spot him through the gnarly stuff, I think it stressed him out to hear the sliders working
I managed to rip my Comet SBB-5 Antenna off the mount. It pulled off the base, but as luck would have it, it threaded right back on and is working again. Jackpot!
- Thread starter
- #209
Next up... Dual Battery's.
I plan on fitting two Optima 27's into the factory spot, I think I can make it work. I picked up a Blue Sea system to manage it and just scored 2/0 wire from my local metal recycler the other day to complete the main components to install it. I just gotta find the time to make it happen.
I plan on fitting two Optima 27's into the factory spot, I think I can make it work. I picked up a Blue Sea system to manage it and just scored 2/0 wire from my local metal recycler the other day to complete the main components to install it. I just gotta find the time to make it happen.
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Sorry Stupid question, but I was drill since my early days, that covering/impeding the radiator airflow will increase the engine temperature for obvious reasons.. ??
If not, I have a pair of Hella 3000 HID's, waiting for a space on the bumper of the Polar bear truck..
- Thread starter
- #211
I ended up with the two lamps on the ends, I would imagine you could block some air flow at higher speeds but I would think its no issue going slower. Fwiw, I have had no rise in temperature since installing the Hellas (Scangauge II confirmed). I chose not to add the center cornering light as I felt it cluttered the front end aesthetics.
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
- Thread starter
- #213
3/10ths of the way there... JACKPOT!
- Thread starter
- #214
Also, snuck in a quick mod... I finally got around to popping in my PFRAN LED kit for the 100 series. They work REALLY well. I am stoked for using them on our next camp out as they really light things up well. I am hoping to pick up an OEM rear dome light and install it into the rear hatch to throw a little more light over the tailgate area. I'll get some pics up soon.
iPhone pics but the amount of light is awesome over the facotry lights.
The light is overwhelming, it is awesome! I am considering adding a third dome light onto the rear hatch to light up the tailgate fully when camping or rooting around in the back of the cruiser grabbing kiddo gear, camping gear etc.
This is one of the most inexpensive, least difficult mods to do that makes a HUGE difference in the amount of usable light at night. What to go PFran!
iPhone pics but the amount of light is awesome over the facotry lights.
The light is overwhelming, it is awesome! I am considering adding a third dome light onto the rear hatch to light up the tailgate fully when camping or rooting around in the back of the cruiser grabbing kiddo gear, camping gear etc.
This is one of the most inexpensive, least difficult mods to do that makes a HUGE difference in the amount of usable light at night. What to go PFran!
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- Thread starter
- #215
Fan clutched locked up. Got the new clutch in. Look for a write up soon.
- Thread starter
- #216
I've been enjoying the 100 and just rolled 300k. The other day my fan clutch seized up. Motor just got LOUDER, like a small plane taking off, it was most noticeable when starting or downshifting in the mountains. I poked around on Amazon (where I seem to find all my OEM parts these days) and found a factory Aisin fan clutch which was indistinguishable from the factory unit.
Aisin FCT-021$80.87 at the time of writing this.
Amazon.com: Aisin FCT-021 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch: Automotive
This was a
job at most.
My steps to swap this out were as follows...
While I was in there I tossed in a new OEM air filter. Should breath nice and clean now. It was amazing how much this quieted the cruiser back down. Now I need to figure out which of the bearings is whining I have a hunch its the idler bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner.
Aisin FCT-021$80.87 at the time of writing this.
Amazon.com: Aisin FCT-021 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch: Automotive
This was a
job at most.My steps to swap this out were as follows...
- Remove the plastic engine cover (4 10mm bolts)
- Remove air intake hose at the air cleaner and the at the throttle body (10mm or phillips).
- Remove the 4 air lines on the air intake from the manifold.
- Set the air intake hose aside.
- One quick layer of Duct tape over the throttle body so nothing can get inside.
- Loosen the top two fan shroud bolts (12mm) enough to slip some card board between the fan and radiator so you can flatten any fins.
- Use two 12mm wrenches to remove the fan clutch hub bolts. (I used one as a wedge at the 9 O'clock position when facing the front of the engine and it would bind on one of the pulleys so I could remove the nut without spinning.
- I unclipped the PS radiator hose from the clip on the fan shroud and pushed it towards the engine.
- I needed to use a pry bar to get my fan clutch hub off the studs YMMV.
- Once free I rocked the top fan blade towards the rear of the truck and started wiggling it out.
- Once the top three blades were out I rotated the fan counter clockwise freeing one fan blade at a time as I pulled it up and out.
- I had to pull the skid plate to get the wrench and 4 nuts that fell during the removal process
While I was in there I tossed in a new OEM air filter. Should breath nice and clean now. It was amazing how much this quieted the cruiser back down. Now I need to figure out which of the bearings is whining I have a hunch its the idler bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner.
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Snuck a little time on the cruiser and Installed a set of new gas hood struts... if you are waiting, don't. Best $30 bucks spent on the 100 yet. Makes working under the hood so much easier than the broom handle I was using
Up next, ARB Bumper, Winch, Off road lights. Just needing a warm day to line up with my day off.
Which shocks did you end up going with for $30?
- Thread starter
- #218
Amazon specials... just searched gas struts for my 1999. Easy peasy.
- Thread starter
- #219
We had a few nice days of weather during my days off the past two days, so I spent a little time getting back into projects on the 100. First up, I have had the fire extinguisher rolling around in the back of my 100 since the wheeling season and I decided to give it a place to live. I didn't like the idea of having it in the back as there are way too many things to open, move, swing etc to get to it. It didn't fit between the seat and door, but I wanted it out of the way but remain accessible. Onto the tire carrier it went.
I mounted it up with the little mount it came with, now before the safety police come out and start to grill me please know I have had the same fire extinguisher in the same mount screwed onto my roll bar of my 40 for over 17 years...bouncing, wheeling, freeways, no top... no issues, nada, zip, zero... I have confidence this isn't coming free. The pic makes it look like its sitting on the bottom tube but its about 1.5" off the lower tube.
Quick and easy, and now its out of the way and accessible.
I mounted it up with the little mount it came with, now before the safety police come out and start to grill me please know I have had the same fire extinguisher in the same mount screwed onto my roll bar of my 40 for over 17 years...bouncing, wheeling, freeways, no top... no issues, nada, zip, zero... I have confidence this isn't coming free. The pic makes it look like its sitting on the bottom tube but its about 1.5" off the lower tube.
Quick and easy, and now its out of the way and accessible.
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- Thread starter
- #220
Next up, I had to remount my ScanGauge II as it was blocking the factory warning lights when it was mounted on top of the steering wheel. When I had an igniter go out I couldn't see the idiot light on the dash, nor can I see the 4x4 light etc. I decided to move it up and onto a RAM Mount suction cup. I picked up about 4 of these mounts at a local sporting goods store that is going out of business for less than $5 bucks a piece. If you haven't tried a RAM Mount, you're missing out, they are rock solid.
First I pulled the OBD2 cable up through the dash and between the A-Pillar trim and the dash. The neon yellow wire is my fishing line to yank on to pull the cable through.
I used the same stuff I did to mount my HAM Radio to the ash tray (which is holding amazingly BTW) it is 3M Dual Lock. It is really good stuff and for what it is worth the old mount on top of the steering wheel was mounted using this stuff and it pulled away clean with no damage or residue left behind. It's about $4 for 6 square inches but its amazing stuff and I'll keep using it for these kinds of applications.
Here is where I applied the Dual Lock...
Simple and clean, this is roughly the view from the drivers seat.
I love how the dual ball and sockets give you infinite adjustments and I can tuck the unit really close to the dash and A-Pillar and still not touch either. The suction cups I have used from RAM in the past have never let go, they clamp down tight and won't rattle off even off road.
First I pulled the OBD2 cable up through the dash and between the A-Pillar trim and the dash. The neon yellow wire is my fishing line to yank on to pull the cable through.
I used the same stuff I did to mount my HAM Radio to the ash tray (which is holding amazingly BTW) it is 3M Dual Lock. It is really good stuff and for what it is worth the old mount on top of the steering wheel was mounted using this stuff and it pulled away clean with no damage or residue left behind. It's about $4 for 6 square inches but its amazing stuff and I'll keep using it for these kinds of applications.
Here is where I applied the Dual Lock...
Simple and clean, this is roughly the view from the drivers seat.
I love how the dual ball and sockets give you infinite adjustments and I can tuck the unit really close to the dash and A-Pillar and still not touch either. The suction cups I have used from RAM in the past have never let go, they clamp down tight and won't rattle off even off road.
