Its time for me to fix the long non working Ebrake, I put the 2f and 4sp in with out changing the crossmember a real PIA. I know I have to cut it to get the e brake drum off and would like to hear and see how others have done this change so any trans / tc work can be done. Thanks Myrle
4 spd cross member mods ?
- Thread starter mallred
- Start date
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Take off rear engine mounts, support tcase with floorjack, let it drop just enough to get ebrake drum off.
This is one reason I hate working on 350 swaps. This fact plus two mistakes of mine made fixing a leak a 2 day ordeal instead of a 1 hr job.
This is one reason I hate working on 350 swaps. This fact plus two mistakes of mine made fixing a leak a 2 day ordeal instead of a 1 hr job.
You could pull the rear rubber motor mounts out and lower the back to work on the e-brake. I sure wouldn't go and chop it out now that you got everything in there without cutting it.
If you're set on cutting you can make a couple of straight cuts right next to the frame. Then relocate the cut section toward the rear of the truck a few inches. Mark and drill holes through the frame big enough for a piece of pipe or tube to slide through the frame and into or over the old, relocated crossmember. Weld back together. Paint and have a
!
Nick Jennings
If you're set on cutting you can make a couple of straight cuts right next to the frame. Then relocate the cut section toward the rear of the truck a few inches. Mark and drill holes through the frame big enough for a piece of pipe or tube to slide through the frame and into or over the old, relocated crossmember. Weld back together. Paint and have a
! Nick Jennings
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2004
- Threads
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crossmember mods
Mine was cut leaving a couple inch stub sticking out of each side of the frame with a piece of plate welded on. 6inches of plate to the rear. Crossmember has same size rectangular plate welded on each end but the 6inches to the front. Whole thing is moved to the rear 5 or 6 inches and bolted together. Allows tranny and transfer to come out as a unit--slick.
Mine was cut leaving a couple inch stub sticking out of each side of the frame with a piece of plate welded on. 6inches of plate to the rear. Crossmember has same size rectangular plate welded on each end but the 6inches to the front. Whole thing is moved to the rear 5 or 6 inches and bolted together. Allows tranny and transfer to come out as a unit--slick.
When I cut mine in the 68, I cut it flush to the frame and paid a shop to weld gussetted plates onto the ends of the tube, along with a little bit of extension so I could move the tube back and bolt it in.
Years later, when I had my own shop and a welder and had to do one for a customer, I went a step further with his and made mating plates for the crossmember out of 1/2" steel, drilled and tapped them, and then used the crossmember as the jig to align the plates in the frame before I welded them in.
Hope this makes sense.
Years later, when I had my own shop and a welder and had to do one for a customer, I went a step further with his and made mating plates for the crossmember out of 1/2" steel, drilled and tapped them, and then used the crossmember as the jig to align the plates in the frame before I welded them in.
Hope this makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #6
Cross member
1. First I will try the taking out the rubber and if that works I will put off the mod.
2. If that does not work I like Marks flanges it sould like you use the exisiting pipe that goes threw the frame if I am reading it right and that would be a lot more sanitary.
Thank, Myrle
1. First I will try the taking out the rubber and if that works I will put off the mod.
2. If that does not work I like Marks flanges it sould like you use the exisiting pipe that goes threw the frame if I am reading it right and that would be a lot more sanitary.
Thank, Myrle