4.88s for better MPG??? (Is there any hope?) (1 Viewer)

[Markuson]

2011 LC with 80k-110k miles, measured with separate GPS
19 mpg: Bone stock (80 mph, west Texas hills and wind)
16 mpg: Added ARB winch bar, Front runner rack, and BP 51 set to 20mm preload with rear 2722 springs, and STOCK wheels and tires:
11.5 mpg: Added 295/70r17 STT Pro tires with RWs
13 mpg: Added 4.88s
11 mpg: Modded with 6,500 pound towing in mountains
8 mpg: Modded with 9,400 pound towing in mountains

This was measures with three cross country trips, and a lot of tanks of gas to find the average.

Putting the 5.7 in the right power band is what helps lower drivetrain load, and that, uses less fuel to do the same amount of work.

Looks like you saw significantly less impact on mpg with mods...but it’s pretty unique that you had stock tires at that stage.

Wonder what I’d get RIGHT NOW if a threw a set of stock tires on...

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Looks like you saw significantly less impact on mpg with mods...but it’s pretty unique that you had stock tires at that stage.

Wonder what I’d get RIGHT NOW if a threw a set of stock tires on...

Yeah, I did that on purpose. I had all the parts on hand, and as you know, I do all my own work. So when I knew I could do everything other than wheels and tires, then do a 3,000 mile trip. I took the opportunity to real world test. 66 pound muds that require constant, inefficient T/C unlocking and full downshifting for little inclines on the highway is what kills MPG.

 

[mcgaskins]

Looks like you saw significantly less impact on mpg with mods...but it’s pretty unique that you had stock tires at that stage.

Wonder what I’d get RIGHT NOW if a threw a set of stock tires on...

Get some cheap stock base Tundra wheels and tires off CL and find out

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Get some cheap stock base Tundra wheels and tires off CL and find out

Wait, you gave me an idea! As most know, I love to test, not just speculate.

Do 2016+ wheel fit on 2008-2015 trucks?

 

[mcgaskins]

Wait, you gave me an idea! As most know, I love to test, not just speculate.

Do 2016+ wheel fit on 2008-2015 trucks?

Yes they do! Only difference is 4mm of offset IIRC.

 

[Markuson]

I'm running 35s. stock front bumper, roof rack. with the stock gears I was seeing 10.5-11 around town, and right around 12 on the highway.
most highway driving here is 75-83...
I swapped to 4.30 gears. picked up .5-.8 mpg. nothing to write home about.
what did change dramatically, is the handling of the truck. the motor/trans isn't struggling as much. Breaking actually feels a lot better.
The entire drivetrain just seems to operate a lot smoother.
Towing with the gears is definitely better.

Curious about your 4.30s (vs. 4.88).
Were you looking for lower highway RPMs in particular?
Or maybe you had smaller tires at the time?
Just wondering...

 

[M1911]

Wait, you gave me an idea! As most know, I love to test, not just speculate.

Do 2016+ wheel fit on 2008-2015 trucks?

Yup.

 

[ToyotaTrk]

Fuel light comes on when you still have about 4 or 5 gallons in the tank.

The 200 does have a range screen, but it is the range until the light comes on...not range to true empty.

Gear will add power and easier use of 6th gear on the highway...but not likely to change mpg.

In my experience, the biggest hit to MPG comes from additional drag of bumpers, tire swingout a, ladders, etc more than simply weight. Also...from larger heavier tires.

This drag theory comes, in part, from recognizing that I stilll got 18-19mpg on the highway even when my rig was packed to the gills with gear and people...and 33’s...but before I had added external drag items.

Once bumpers and winch...swingout, fuels cans etc went on...even unladen...mpg went in the toilette.

Regearing to 4.88s will be better for your rig in other ways due to less heat and reduced reliance on your torque converter, but I wouldn’t expect a big change in mpg.

yep - coincidently, yesterday my low fuel light came on at about 11 miles to empty. But when I filled up I could only get 20.6 gal in. FYI. Tks

 

[TexAZ]

Curious about your 4.30s (vs. 4.88).
Were you looking for lower highway RPMs in particular?
Or maybe you had smaller tires at the time?
Just wondering...

Cost savings.....
Nitro gear set $1700
installation and break in time $500

Used Sequoia front diff: $300
Used 1999 LC rear axle $700
sold axle shafts -$100
brakes still on classifieds further potential of -$100

for $1100 I got factory gears with rear locker and no break in time.
the factory electronic locker actuator will not fit with the rear sway bar. I had to fab an air actuator (still in progress)

 

[Markuson]

Cost savings.....
Nitro gear set $1700
installation and break in time $500

Used Sequoia front diff: $300
Used 1999 LC rear axle $700
sold axle shafts -$100
brakes still on classifieds further potential of -$100

for $1100 I got factory gears with rear locker and no break in time.
the factory electronic locker actuator will not fit with the rear sway bar. I had to fab an air actuator (still in progress)

Man, you are a skilled scrambler!

My 100 was a 99...the last year that came with a rear locker IIRC. No issues with the actuator in 16 years. Hope your custom figment solution works out. Take some photos...