- Thread starter
- #21
Template is a good idea, I don't think I can make it that pretty. Thanks again I post on the progress.
350/ Overheating
- Thread starter Black Dog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Depending on your skills it's really not that hard....and very forgiving. Try it, it's only paper, a box cuttter, straight edge, a sharpie, some masking tape and time. Finding one in a boneyard is, well, like finding a needle in a haystack and always a compromise.
I've had electric and a shroud
The only thing that has made me happy is my Be Cool radiator with standard clutch fan. I got mine from summit (#bci-62167) with the 1-ton trannny cooler built in. I tried to reuse my shroud but wouldn't work. Have been running the unit for the past 6 months and have yet to see my temp gauge surpass 200. Regular driving it never gets past 180. I can actually watch the gauge when the termosat opens and see the temps back down. Pricey but I'm thrilled. anyone want a 2 piece shroud? you pay freight.
The only thing that has made me happy is my Be Cool radiator with standard clutch fan. I got mine from summit (#bci-62167) with the 1-ton trannny cooler built in. I tried to reuse my shroud but wouldn't work. Have been running the unit for the past 6 months and have yet to see my temp gauge surpass 200. Regular driving it never gets past 180. I can actually watch the gauge when the termosat opens and see the temps back down. Pricey but I'm thrilled. anyone want a 2 piece shroud? you pay freight.
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm a little confused on this? Once the therm. opens, it's opened. I'm not disagreeing I just don't understand?
Howdy! Any good radiator shop can fix that problem. I had my lower outlet moved from the back of the lower tank to the bottom, and replaced it with a 90 degree turn. It is now about 5" from stock. I can run 20+ inch fan with no clearance issues. JohnI tried a big mechanical fan from a caddy, and it hit my lower radiator hose
Personally, I'd rather run the mechanical fan...is there a little smaller one that might work? or a reason why that fan would interfere with my lower hose? I currently run the Taurus fan.
I'm using the AA mounts.
Hope this clears the confusion
Black Dog here's a good explanation of what's happening with the thermostat.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm
Black Dog here's a good explanation of what's happening with the thermostat.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question248.htm
Here is a major part of why a lot of you, including myself are experienceing overheating, the Camshaft. What you say? It is true if you have a stock or small duration cam your motor will overheat a lot faster that a motor with a bigger cam. Heres why. A stock or small cam has less duration and valve overlap which causes higher cylinder pressures, this in turn causes more heat to build up in the engine rather than expelling the pressure, aka compression letoff. A bigger cam will bleed ogff more cylinder pressure therefore allow your engine to run cooler.
You dont have to run a rattle the windows saturday night drag cam but a cam with a little more duration and overlap will let a lot of the hot gasses out.
I know this because i have experienced it in case some of you are wondering.
You dont have to run a rattle the windows saturday night drag cam but a cam with a little more duration and overlap will let a lot of the hot gasses out.
I know this because i have experienced it in case some of you are wondering.
I have had mild to wild cams in 350 & 400- powered SBC in FJ40's and all have run hot...230+ with an inadequate radiator/fan/shroud. I have not personally experienced of which you speak. It sounds a little pie-in-the-sky.
In my experience cooling a Chevota has everything to do primarily with radiator size and air movement. I put Water Wetter, oil coolers, Motor Honey, Slick 50, snake oil and prayer all in the same category.
In my experience cooling a Chevota has everything to do primarily with radiator size and air movement. I put Water Wetter, oil coolers, Motor Honey, Slick 50, snake oil and prayer all in the same category.
- Thread starter
- #30
The way it was explained to me by a mechanic was after the engine heats up the thermostat opens. The hot water in the engine gets pushed into the rad and the cooler water get pushed into the engine. Since the cooler water is cooler than the rating of the thermostat, the thermostat closes. Therefore the hot water stays in the rad and cools down. Once the cooler water in the engine heats up, the process starts over. So therefore you need the right thermostat and the capacity to cool the hot water.
HTH,
HTH,
The thing about 40s is that you are limited on radiator size so every bit of advantage you can gain will help.
Lets get back to basics, Question? What makes heat? Compression. If you let off some of the compression off whether it be by head chamber size, camshaft, or whatever less heat will be produced, making it easier for a 40 radiator to cool.
Lets get back to basics, Question? What makes heat? Compression. If you let off some of the compression off whether it be by head chamber size, camshaft, or whatever less heat will be produced, making it easier for a 40 radiator to cool.
Hey I am not going to argue with your theory some one told me that you could turn water into gas and get better mileage and i laughed. Of course i tried it and now i get 6 miles to gallon better??????? So now i am starting to wonder if pigs can fly ;p
i agree.. my cruiser ran hot with the combination of several things.
1. the carb was running pretty lean, which is a no-no.
2. the spark plug gap was incorrect.
3. and worst of all, my timing would shift while driving.
The distributor hold down was an aftermarket chrome POS that wouldnt actually hold down the distributor once the engine was in time. Any hard acceleration would cause a moment on the distributor shaft causing it to tweak out of timing. i figured it out because of when this would happen, my cruiser would be a pain in the butt to start, and ran rough until higher RPMs, and got extremely hot really fast.
FWIW I am running 383 mild cam (approx 300HP), a generic 427 in^2 AL radiator(similar to Summit unit) with MK VIII fan, hi-flow H2O pump, hi-flow 180' thermostat with three 1/16" holes drilled into the thermostat (not by me-came from MFR that way). The fan is set to turn on at 190' and has not gotten above 195 in stop and go traffic with 100' Florida heat.
I went with the more air to absorb the heat, more water circulation to move the heat (especially at low RPM's) and remove the heat. I would think that under normal use it would be hard to push so much water through a radiator it wouldn't cool. But I've been wrong before...
Would a blockage in the water jacket cause this? water pump not pushing water to both sides evenly?
You might try putting a thermocouple/thermometer on the hot side of the radiator by the inlet and get some temperature measurements around the radiator, see if your getting flow everywhere, then see what the temp drops to at the outlet going back to the block with and without the fan. Might tell you if you need more water flow, more air flow, or more even flow.
Might be cool to take a picture with a thermal camera of the radiator as the thermostat opens up and when the fan kicks on. I will see if there is one at work.
I went with the more air to absorb the heat, more water circulation to move the heat (especially at low RPM's) and remove the heat. I would think that under normal use it would be hard to push so much water through a radiator it wouldn't cool. But I've been wrong before...
Would a blockage in the water jacket cause this? water pump not pushing water to both sides evenly?
You might try putting a thermocouple/thermometer on the hot side of the radiator by the inlet and get some temperature measurements around the radiator, see if your getting flow everywhere, then see what the temp drops to at the outlet going back to the block with and without the fan. Might tell you if you need more water flow, more air flow, or more even flow.
Might be cool to take a picture with a thermal camera of the radiator as the thermostat opens up and when the fan kicks on. I will see if there is one at work.