31's + Stock Birfield + Lockers =?

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liljlandon

liljlandon

10 Year 15 Year
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Feb 21, 2008
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SW MO, NE OK, and NW AR
Ive got enough money saved up for two Aussie Lockers, front and rear in my 84 Hilux 5spd. Dad says I am digging my grave by running a locker with my stock birfields and i should buy a rear aussie, and save money for an ARB or Longs and a lockright or aussie. As much as i like ARBS and Longs I just cant justify my breaking birfields especially aftering seeing what my uncle did to his the other day (fj40 with 36's and sbc 350). I also thought about just leaving one side locked in and putting the other side in when I needed to have that much traction. I figure the cheaper (short) side to replace because in theory that would be the strongest.

Will stock birfields hold up to a 31 locker and maybe a 4.7 kit from MC?

Better to get longs or arb?

Note: Im cheap, so the cheapest route would be the best!.
thanks!
 
with ltd slips they will last allot longer. You are effectively putting a spool in your front diff since the only way it will unlock is in a decelerated turn. So instead of saying "Birfields + Locker" you might get a better idea if you ask "Birfields + spool"

Birfs are ok but not the best joint out there. Where you will get into the most trouble out of them is with what I call a "hash" type of traction aid. A ltd slip or selectable would be what I call "soft".

What pops Birfs the most IMO is turning, (which is the worst thing for any joint) and your wheels cannot allow for differentiation.

Weather or not you're most often on a hard surface or soft will also be important and naturally take more from one side of the equation and allow for more leniency on the other.



Cheap? Rear locker and front either TRD or TrueTrack
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Run it! Just stay off the gas, and drive smart. They will last fine, as long as there isn't a problem with them already.....
Click to expand...


Actually, those are words to live by even with an open diffed rig, THX for bringing this up 2ndGen..:cheers:


I drive my trucks in 4WD like the axles are made of egg shells...WHY?

Because I feel that the more stress I can save the DT, is the more that will be there if I'm ever in need of it, or an emergency situation.


I feel like if I go around fast wearing my parts, the one time I need it and it's REALLY important could be the time it breaks.


Just preach'n :flipoff2:
 
What are you going through i.e. what type of terrain?

Just don't get more than you need. You can do a lot of stuff with open diffs, good tires and a good line/driving technique.

With 31"s, you must not be doing rocks. So, what is the need for a completely locked vehicle?
 
run it.

think of it this way. you will never ever be done with this truck. Infact these cottin pickin yotas will probably be the death of all of us. :doh: no matter what you will always find another thing to add, mod, fix, replace. Its the joy of running the most capable stout truck ever built., i suppose. And soon enuff you will find those weenie 31's aint gonna get you no where but stuck behind guys runnin 40's :flipoff2: heck, Im even sketched about runnin my weenie 35's :eek:
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Actually I'd just get a locker for the rear, and see how you like it. A rear locker will blow your mind, you may not have a desire for the front after that.....
Click to expand...

then once you get to where you couldnt get to before, once your mind has been blown. you can then proceed to blow the mind of some helpless pumpkins! :D :lol:

Aaronspix070.jpg
 
The more you guys talk the more im thinkiing selectable, why?

My parents do the one hub locked till you need the other in there scrambler, I personally hate to drive it. Everytime you hit the gas it pulls to the side of the locked hub.

Along with my parents stupid pull to one side ive noticed when they need to lock it to get out of something they can never unlock the hubs without lifting the front end up.

I dont really like the fact I would need Hydro assist atleast to get my wheels to turn.

And I think the sounds ARBs make are awesome.

So maybe Ill get longs,
or Maybe just get the rear and a 4.7 kit?

Aussie vs. Lockright?
 
On my truck, only the rear is locked... gets me plenty of places. I would do gearing before a front locker for the type of wheeling I do.

But then I have a FJ40 to work on as well, so I don't see any large upgrades for the truck in the near future.
 
you never did say what kind of wheeling you plan on doing?

On 31's I can't imagine you are getting into anything nasty enough to need an ARB, and it's a loot of maoney so your truck makes a cool sound. Get a Detroit for the back and see how you like it, then worry about the front when you get bigger tires.
 
31's will get me ALOT of places, but its because of a good spotter that i get there, and a lift is the last thing i need if i do a either a drivetrain lift or clock the case. But heres one pic, sorry but this does no justice to the real trouble i get myself into, by then dads pissed off or laughing so hard he forgets to get pictures... And the bottom one is the thing i have to follow around, and yes its my moms...

Here you go...
1011421cn8.jpg

1011409fi3.jpg
 
I'd go rear locker or selectable/ front selectable or Truetrac, WAY before I ever thought about a front locker...but that's just me...
 
31's you will be fine.

I have lockers front and rear.

33's you might break one if you bounce or get bound up. I have dual cases and did just fine with 33's never broke a birf..


NOW.. when you go to 36's. you will break them. I broke my last one with the tire side ways against a rock. I could not turn. tried back... got tighter. tried forward and heard the boom.. not even pushing it.

toyota in the past, I checked at the dealer and the largest tire they said you could run was a 33. after many years of wheeling toyota's I think that they are correct..

Now I have the 30 spline longs, I have put them through 10 times what would have broke a stock birfield. I still carry complet axles for right and left. but only one set for my wife's and my truck. she is also running 36s now with 5.29 gears, welded rear and detroit in the front.

now with a locker in the front, steering, (stock) sucks, we have cross over and hydro assist.

so in closing with your 31 inch tires, lock it up, by all means carry a spare and know how to field change an axle. but I would not worry to much about it.

If you want to know how to field change an axle just ask.. or look up the camo method of axle changing.
 
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Im pretty sure I know how, or is there an easier way than tearing it all down?

Im pretty set on this order:
Rear Aussie
4.7 or Duals (still deciding)
Crossover + Hydro assist (OVerkill, :))
Longs
Front Aussie

Some where they may be 4.3 swap or supra, still iffy though.

I want to make the ultimate sleeper rig :flipoff2:
So when i get to school in the winter I plan on using it as a 'class' project. Thinking 33' with some really absorbent Air shocks with a 4 link so i can jump it!

How does a stock toy Jump?
 
if you jump a toyota you will bend the front axle.

camo method.

take off tire set beside brake rotor
take off tie rod end
take off the seal and dust cover on back of knuckle.
take off lock out hub dial and axle clip that is behind it.
take off upper steering arm.
have a small screw driver or something to push upper bearing down. (DO NOT USE YOUR THUMB) it hurts like heck and almost cut the end of my thumb off.

lift the whole thing brakes and all up and off the knuckle ball and set it on the tire. you have to turn it towards the back of the truck to slide it off the axle.

it is also heavy and hard to hang onto.
don't let it just hang by the brake line.

reverse order to put it back together.
that upper bearing can be a pain to keep in place while you lift it back on.

no messing with wheel bearing or brakes when you do it this way.
do not for get the axle clip as you put it back together.
and buy a new inner axle seal and keep it in the glove box.

you need a 10mm
17 mm or are the steering arms a 19mm?
snap ring tool for inner snap ring.
 
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