3.0 not starting.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

HJ-45CrewCab

HJ-45CrewCab

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 5, 2007
Threads
45
Messages
831
Location
New Hampshire
My 4runner has been acting up lately. I think its getting back at me for letting it sit for 6 months while I replaced the transmission. Anyway, once the transmission changeout was complete, I started using the truck again as a daily driver and it has continually let me down. (1) in November, stranded the wife at work..solenoid click..so, I replaced the starter and has been fine. (2) two weeks later, the truck stranded me at work (wont start)..found the positive battery cable lead clamp was broke and not making good contact. Fixed that. (3) two days later, the truck wont start in my driveway..starter turns over but engine wont fire.
I have the FSM and verified all the fuses in the engine bay and drivers kick panel are good. I have verified fuel at the cold start injector and LH delivery pipe by loosening the fittings and shorting FP and +B terminals. That is all so far.
1995 4runner, 3.0 auto converted to 5spd. batt volts is 11.9 with ignition off... no CEL...

Any help is much appreciated. I hope to get this figured out before Monday. Ill keep going by following the FSM for electrical.

Thanks
 
Checked igniter primary and secondary coil resistances - in spec
Cold start injector resistance - in spec

I dont think I have spark. The FSM says to disconnect the high tension cord from the distributor and place the end 1/2" from engine ground while cranking. I got no spark.

Verified 12v to the ignition coil positive terminal.
Measure resistance of cable to distributor - in spec 5.9K

Everything checks out.. maybe change the igniter anyway?
 
Before you do anyting, I woudl have your battery checked out and your main ground strap.

I am assuming you are NH and that it is cold.

Have you tried to measure spark at the plug wire? Pretty simple to do with a spark tester.
 
Oh yeah its cold. Single digits recently and I did suspect the battery since it is a 7 year old Sears DieHard Gold. I put jumper cables on it and the truck still did the same, only spinned the starter a little faster. I will put the charger on it tonight and try tomorrow to make sure. I also have a new Die Hard Platinum I can put in and try.

Never used a spark tester. I will pull a plug and see if it sparks.
 
Last edited:
Ernie:

You around this weekend? I can swing by, we can take a look at it. I have a spare coil, I'll bring it with me. Tomorrow looks to be warmer than today.
 
Hey Ken,

Sunday is perfect. I sent you a PM with the number at the house if you want to give me a call.
I pulled a spark plug wire, put a spark plug wire, held it on the block and no spark while cranking. It will be nice to know its the igniter before I buy a new one. Also, Sheri has a YT calendar for you since you missed the FG.
Thanks.

Ernie
 
Last edited:
HJ-45CrewCab said:
Oh yeah its cold. Single digits recently and I did suspect the battery since it is a 7 year old Sears DieHard Gold. I put jumper cables on it and the truck still did the same, only spinned the starter a little faster. I will put the charger on it tonight and try tomorrow to make sure. I also have a new Die Hard Platinum I can put in and try.

Never used a spark tester. I will pull a plug and see if it sparks.
Click to expand...

Jumpering does not always indicate a good/bad battery. If you have cell issues, two batteries might not overcome it. The explanation to this is rather long but there is physical phenomenon in batteries where an actual dead battery will minimalize or even neutralize the effectiveness of a new bateery IF they are placed in parallel wiring.

Maybe it is an igniter but I you still may want to throw in a new battery (since you already have one) and see.
 
Did some troubleshooting with the service manual. Verified rotor is turning when engine is cranked. All wiring is secure. Verified the pickup coil resistances in spec. On the step now that says just to replace the igniter. 95% sure it is the igniter which may be around $400.:eek: A little frustrating that there is no way to actually test/verify this part without swapping.

Found this document which explains igniter / coil function in Toyota EFI. Good stuff.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf
 
Last edited:
This truck is still down. I have replaced the battery with new Die Hard Platinum and no change. The igniter from ebay was similar, but not exactly the same. I tried it anyway and no change. Just noticed today there is no Malfunction Indicator Lamp on the dash. That should be on with the ignition ON and the engine off. I have no light at all, so now I am investigating the ECM, and EFI relay.

Update: Followed a flowchart starting with no malfunction indicator lamp. Comes on when pin 'W' is grounded, so know bulb is good. Verified 12v and ground to ECM connectors. FSM says to try another ECM. Going to look at salvage yards.
 
Last edited:
Good to go!

Picked up a used and tested ECM from a local salvage yard for $65. Truck started right up. I noticed I didnt have a CEL, but even after driving this truck for 12 years, I didn't pick up that the CEL should be on as a normal condition for ignition ON and engine not running. Just missed it. Anyway, hope this thread can help others in the future.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom