2fe build questions

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landcruiser80

landcruiser80

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Please excuse me if some of these are dumb.:doh:

1. What does it cost approximately to build a 2fe, assuming a person doesn't go overboard?
2. To those that have done this build, what do you think are must have upgrades?
3. If I were to do a basically stock build, would it really be an worthwhile improvement over the 3fe?
4. Are you guys burning standard fuel?

The reason I am asking this is my 3fe may need a rebuild/replacement in the future and a 2fe looks like it might be a worthwhile endeavor if I have to rebuild my 3fe anyway. I am not looking for tons of power, a little more torque would be nice though. I don't want to spend too much $$$ on this but I also don't want to cheap out and not do things right. In the end I want a good reliable engine that will take my cruiser another couple hundred thousand miles.
:cheers:
 
Do yourself a favor and do some searching. @RockDoc did a sweet 2FE build with factory components (among others) and @mtweller did a 2FE build with a megasquirt system. Both methods of building a 3FE seem to have significant advantages over the 2F and 3FE.
 
Here's my 2FE build:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-me-plan-for-a-2fe.277349/

1: The minimum cost if you have a good top end and a good bottom end to start with would be the cost of a gasket kit, some belts and hoses and fresh fluids. Add to that the cost of any freshening or "building" you want to do. The fact that it is a 2FE really doesn't add much cost beyond working with a 3FE. Since it is going into a 62, you won't have any wiring to work out.

2: That's open to your wishes. Doing another one, I would likely do some cleaning up of the ports in the head, change in some Chevy valves if it needs valves. On another one I might not drop in a reground cam right of the bat, it would be interesting to see the difference with a stock cam (though I do like the regrind and would likely end up doing it later). Definitely balance the bottom end parts if you disassemble it. I wouldn't do an over-bored throttle body again.

3: Can't really say, I suspect it would be a notable improvement, and certainly won't be much more effort than rebuilding the 3FE.

4: Mine has only rattled once on regular gas.

I estimated that I gained about 30% over the 3FE in terms of power to the rear wheels.

*DISCLAIMER ADDED* 30% came from much more that just bolting together a 2FE. My build included air flow work in the head and manifolds, a warmer cam, chevy valves, thermal and slickening coatings, .........

HTH
 
Last edited:
30% is HUGE. might have to get in that water...does it rev up faster than the 2F?
 
I haven't owned a carbed 2F, but it was a pretty transparent change from the 3FE other than the butt dyno readings.

I should make it clear that my 2FE build was quite a bit more that a "stock" bolt-up.
 
RockDoc, you've mentioned a couple of times that the throttle body bore is something you wouldn't do again. I don't remember your timing for this procedure - done in conjunction with your rebuild or done later? When I had the 3FE rebuilt in my 62 I waited to do the TB overbore about a year later and I have to say that the overbore added considerably to the gains having a fresh 3FE brought. I stuck with all OEM parts including the cam plus milling the head .060" and porting it and the manifolds. What, if any, changes did you notice with the overbore?
 
Hmm... I had it done while building my engine, so it was done in conjunction with all of the other changes. When I dropped in the 2FE I found that throttle was noticeably more "off or on" with less finesse at low/part throttle than I was used to with the 3FE. I reasoned that this was from air flow at the throttle body ramping up quicker with the larger diameter.

That said, as my experience wasn't a direct comparison between stock and overbore your experience is likely more valid on the overbore itself. I could be mis-attributing the loss of finesse. Originally I was thinking of swapping back to a stock TB to see what difference it makes. But I soon forgot about it, other than when threads like this pop up.

Maybe I should go dig out a TB from my parts stash and put it in the truck to swap out when I have some time to kill....
 
I added a little disclaimer in my first post....

Is it an 80 you are considering the 2FE for? There is a link in the first post of my build thread to a discussion on a 2FE into an 80 which ended up hosting some details from a member who did a 2FE FJ80 build.
 
Yeppers, it would be going into a 92' fj80. I have read that thread as well and have been in contact with motorsargeT who put a 2fe into a fj80 to get some info about his swap.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
30% is HUGE. might have to get in that water...does it rev up faster than the 2F?
Click to expand...
RockDoc said:
I haven't owned a carbed 2F, but it was a pretty transparent change from the 3FE other than the butt dyno readings.

I should make it clear that my 2FE build was quite a bit more that a "stock" bolt-up.
Click to expand...


so, you're sayin the 2FE is about 5% more beef than a 2f...
 
I'm saying it has the powerband of a 3FE and behaves similarly, but with much more go. It comes alive at ~2500 rpm and pulls good to 4000 rpm, like the 3FE does. Looking back through the build thread, with the totality of what I put into my build the initial "speed run" comparison indicated 20% more jam from 0-100km/h (torque converter mostly free) and 38% more jam from 80-120km/h (converter locked up and running in the powerband of a xFE).
 
I just got my 2FE dyno tuned and it puts out 143/207 at the rear wheels (DynoJet) with a super flat torque curve starting at 2k RPM. I had mine internally balanced and I think th at is the real advantage on these things. She spins up real quick and feels so strong from right off idle.

In retrospect, the way the Holley dominator stuff is coming along, I might do an aggressive cut on the 2f head and run that TBI system, since is so simple and about the same cost. But, Im a dork and love the tunaibllity of the Megasquirt. I'm really happy.
 
If I have the free time, I'll do it pretty much the same again. If I don't, I'll lighten up on the head porting work and skip the internal coatings, especially if I know I have a solid bottom end with no need to tear it apart to inspect / refresh.

As I mentioned above, I'm curious what the engine would be like with a stock cam, but I suppose it makes more sense to install a warmer cam while it's all apart rather than swap it later.
 
I did a TB overboard on my stock 3FE and ran it on my 2FE as well, both with the stock AFM and a Splitsecond MAF conversion. My 2FE was balanced and I ran a custom ground cam (nothing special) and head porting. I ran it with a modified A440 and an H55F. Also a hot ignition and a J&S Safeguard. I never noticed any problems or drivability issues with the ported TB.

Things I would do again, in order: balancing, cam, head porting, ignition, TB, Splitsecond MAF.
 
So what I am thinking is if I get a higher mile block I will take it apart, balance it, camshaft, etc. As for the head, well, if I end up refreshing the block I may as well tackle the top end as well...
 
top can be done anytime...
 
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