2F oil pressure at 60 pounds???

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S

Sloan

Joined
Apr 17, 2002
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On start up it is at 30 pounds and once it got warmed up it stayed at 60 pounds and would creep up 5 ish pounds with increased rpms. I started testing because my gauge suddenly would just peg at the high mark while idling. Then when I would drive it around the block the oil pressure was reading all over the place. I have a stock 2F that just had the oil pan gasket replaced, radiator replaced and new filter. Is this pressure normal or do I have a more serious problem than gauge/electrical? Thanks in advance. :D
 
Is that weird that mine just stays at 60 pounds even after warmed up? Is this something that I need to worry about/ fix?
 
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Sloan said:
Is that weird that mine just stays at 60 pounds even after warmed up? Is this something that I need to worry about/ fix?
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No, it is fine. Oil thins out a bit as it warms up - so a small drop is normal. That said, if you have around 60psi consistently, it is okay as well. Oil pressure shouldn't jump around though - if it does either the gauge is squirrelly or there is a problem with the oiling system - possibly the pump or pressure regulator. My guess is oiling system is fine and you need a new gauge or sender. You can pick up an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure gauge and it will be far more accurate than the factory gauge. If pressure looks good troubleshoot the OE gauge and sender.
 
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re

Dirty pump or pressure regulator? pull it clean it replace?

:meh:
 
I have the same problem but I replaced my sender and it still stays up really high on the gauge even after warmed up and driven for a while..i pulled off the wire that goes the sending unit to see if the gauge was bad and it wasnt..so i dont know..the wire goin the unit is not on very tight and is kinda loose but still stays on...im afraid to drive it cuz driving around with high oil pressure might blow a head gasket right?
 
Per the mechanic that just replaced the oil pan gasket for me I just checked the relief valve under the oil filter. Of course no change! I think fate wants me to change that gasket myself. I have a sneaking suspicion that he left me a present behind that is clogging the oil pump.
 
ttahara said:
...im afraid to drive it cuz driving around with high oil pressure might blow a head gasket right?
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Define "high" oil pressure? Have you connected a mechanical gauge up to verify actual pressure? If you are running 90+ psi - yes there may be a problem - if it is around 60 it should be fine. Let us know what you find.
 
The problem that I'm having is that my idle pressure is 60 pounds. FSM says that idle oil pressure should be around 4.3 pounds, 2500 rpm pressure should be 37-71 pounds.
 
Minimum idle pressure is 4.3 PSI. Higher is better. The stock pressure relief valve usually blows off at 50-60PSI.

Get a different cheapo mechanical gage and screw into the engine to verify what's going on.
 
I did verify the oil pressure with a Sunpro dash type pressure gauge and the MAC tools pressure gauge that I borrowed from a friend. So I talked to three different sources her in LA today, Rich @ K&H, Curt @ Spectre and the guys over at TLC. Rich and the guys at TLC both agreed that there is a problem and that the 2Fs oil pressure should fluctuate and that a 60 pound constant pressure is too high. Curt disagrees and maintains that the pressure SHOULD be a constant and that I am chasing a ghost. I am at a loss.
 
Was your oil pressure fluctuating before you had the work done? If something was left in the pan and was clogging the pump you would have low oil pressure not high. You can also put the wire that connects to the sending unit straight to ground and your gauge should peg out on the high side. If it does you will know your gauge and wiring are good. Replace the sending unit.
 
Replaced the sending unit, changed the oil filter and grounded out the gauge to make sure it was okay. I pulled the gauge cluster again to drop it off at an electrical shop up the street to have them go through it. am going to pull the oil pump and check it out over the next few days. No the oil pressure wasn't a problem before I had the oil pan gasket replaced but it didn't start pegging until about 2 weeks after. This is why I am stumped, I have checked everything and I figure it has to be something really simple that I have missed out of my inexperience. Please keep the suggestions coming.
 
Since I couldn't locate a oil pressure tester to it..I just used my oil sending unit and seems to work fine now..the sending unit was a aftermarket from SOR. They didn't have the original and that was the only one they had.
 
Went to see the mechanic yesterday and he took one look at my gauge and said it was no good since the needle was al the way to the left. I got another gauge from him, popped it in, reassembled the motor and fired it up. The new gauge read no oil pressure! I pulled the valve cover to verify that there was oil pumping up and there is. I am going to try to get the new gauge to the electrical shop b my house tomorrow to see if it's the gauge or something else. Cash for clunkers is looking better and better. :D
 
Sloan said:
I did verify the oil pressure with a Sunpro dash type pressure gauge and the MAC tools pressure gauge that I borrowed from a friend.
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Sloan said:
Went to see the mechanic yesterday and he took one look at my gauge and said it was no good since the needle was al the way to the left. I got another gauge from him, popped it in, reassembled the motor and fired it up. The new gauge read no oil pressure! I pulled the valve cover to verify that there was oil pumping up and there is.
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Are these mechanical gauges?



Where, specifically, are you connecting the gauge on the engine?



The OEM oil sender thread size is 1/8"-28 BSP (British Standard Pipe)
Most aftermarket gauges are threaded with 1/8"-27 NPTF (National Pipe Thread Fuel)
Are you running an adapter with the test gauges - how are you connecting the test gauges?
 
Yep, both mechanical and I pulled the factory sending unit to connect them into the oil cooler. The Sunpro had an adapter and the Mac gauge I borrowed form a Toyota mechanic and it was set up with no adapters.
 
Sloan said:
Yep, both mechanical and I pulled the factory sending unit to connect them into the oil cooler. The Sunpro had an adapter and the Mac gauge I borrowed form a Toyota mechanic and it was set up with no adapters.
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From the sound of it, the gauges are installed correctly. What are the odds of 3 bad mechanical gauges - not very good, I would think. That said, one thing that is odd to me is that they all didn't give consistent pressure readings. So at this point we still don't really know if you truly have a true 30psi at idle - 60psi warm situation or not. We almost need a KNOWN good gauge to clear this up at this point. The good news is that you DO have some oil pressure as indicated by the valves getting oil.
 
At this point I would believe anything! Also the only time that I got the 30 pounds at idle was with the Mac the first reading I did, the other two times I tried it the readings were 60 pounds at idle and revved up.
 
Sloan said:
the only time that I got the 30 pounds at idle was with the Mac the first reading I did, the other two times I tried it the readings were 60 pounds at idle and revved up.
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That said, your oil pressure appears to be good and should be safe to run. If there are no other related issues, I would drive it. I would also bet that the oil pressure drops a bit once it gets hot - i.e. driven around for more than 30mins - not merely idling.
 
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