2f motor issues

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May 9, 2019
medford oregon
Hey there all I joined the fj40 club with the purchase of a 1974 and can't be more happy. It has been parked or over 12 years and is a pretty straight project but isnt running. The guy who sold it to me said his brother had messed with the distributor and that somehow he didnt have it in right and it blew the motor up. This is totally going off what he said and it might not even be true, might even run ? My question is what do you think I should do before putting power to it and seeing is she starts ? anything is helpful thanks a ton !!
see if the motor turns over.

check to see if there is oil in it.
take the spark plugs out and put a bit of marvels mystery oil in each cylinder.
manually (with a wrench) try and turn the engine by the big nut on the front of the crankshaft.

if it turns over by hand, you have a chance.

if it doesn't, look for big holes in the block to see what they meant by "blew the motor up"
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Also, post as many pics as possible...The knowledgeable individuals in here can diagnose many issues just thru pics.
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Thank you both for the reply ! I have poked around a bit and haven't seen any sign of damage to the block. I will do exactly that and see if I can get her to turn over manually Ill keep you posted thanks again !
The distributor can be installed improperly where the engine will run, but the oil pump doesn't pump oil and the result can be major damage withing a very short time. Probably what the seller was eluding too. Good advise above. ^^^
The distributor can be installed improperly where the engine will run, but the oil pump doesn't pump oil and the result can be major damage withing a very short time. Probably what the seller was eluding too. Good advise above. ^^^
I’m thinking the same would that just burn up some bearings most likely or could it be really bad ?

Also, some pics of your new rig would be nice when ya get the time. Engine too!
Ah, ya beet me too it. I believe you have the transition F and not the 2F. Often called the F.5. Same bore and stroke as the F but with the 2F type oil system.
74 was a transition year. They went from 3 speed to 4 speed. And from F to F.5. Where your oil filter is shows it's not an F. And the 2Fs had aluminum valve covers. You can ID the engine by a stamp on flat spot on the block behind the dip stick and just below the side cover.
Yikes! Just noticed you're missing the side cover and the push rods are exposed. Not good.
I have it in the truck I think the guy that had it pulled it off to see if he could diagnose it lol good eye ! And thanks for the history on it. Is there anything with that configuration I should keep and eye out for problems etc. ?
The engine may be seized. The advise above is a good first step. Since the side cover is off you might as well hit the lifters with the Mystery oil as well. You could lift the valve cover and douse down the rockers also.
another way to turn the motor is: put the trans in the highest gear(3rd or 4th), push the rig and the motor should turn. The fan blade should turn. If you pull the valve cover, you should also see the rocker arms move.

you could also use another rig to give a nudge.
To all on this thread if indeed I do have the F.5 motor in my cruiser, If I was going to oreder a rebuild kit would it be a F kit or F2 ? Ill check my engine serial but didnt know how much they changed internal parts at that between year ? Thanks so much
F.5 is a popular nickname but in parts listings I’ve only seen F or 2F.
1974 can be a confusing year for some parts suppliers. I've gotten wrong head and manifold gaskets before when ordering from supply houses. You'd do well to deal with one of the vendors here on Mud. They will know that engine well and won't have any confusion.

Did you get the engine to rotate yet?

Here's what my May, 1974 F.5 engine stamp/serial # looks like.

Engine Stamp.jpg
Well all the advice worked, I got the motor moving and doesn't seem to be any major grinding or parts not wanting to move throughout the entire stroke of the pistons. What would you guys recommend for a rebuild kit or would you just recommend buying the pieces separate ? Thanks a bunch !!
Because the oil was a result of the distributor not running the oil pump, it probably seized within a gallon of gas after that. I bet that you need main and crank bearings addressed, at a minimum. I can recall a '73 that also had distributor/oil pump installation issues, personally. but, as with most repairs, there are usually other issues that surface as well.

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