2F Distributor Differences/Guide: Do I need a Ballast (1 Viewer)

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J

JAH FJ55

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Jul 31, 2011
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1. Id like to know if I need a ballast for this original setup that I have?

I believe its a distributor for 79-80 with the igniter mounted on the coil. however there is no ballast mounted on the coil. The truck is a 1969 fj55 with a transplanted late 70s early 80s engine with power steering and NO dented push rod cover. (I DON'T recommend the cheap ($90) HEI distributor on ebay (blue). It lasted a few months and no I have no spark from the dizzy)

2.Did toyota ever have a setup with a ballast mounted separate from the igniter/coil, somewhere on the firewall?

Id love a picture guide to the ignition components and their details explained. I know that it's not the big dizzy and will work with my non-dented push rod cover.

I'd also like to know:

3.what do all the wires coming off the igniter/coil do since ive never had the original parts on this truck.

THX
 
In a 69 you will need a separate ballast resistor or a coil with internal ballast.

78+ the ballast resistor can be found spliced in the wiring harness between the passenger firewall and ignition switch, the resistor wire is several feet long.
 
Curt said:
In a 69 you will need a separate ballast resistor or a coil with internal ballast.

78+ the ballast resistor can be found spliced in the wiring harness between the passenger firewall and ignition switch, the resistor wire is several feet long.
Click to expand...


Curt,
Since im not sure what wiring harness is in this truck (im guessing '69) should install a ballast resistor and what ohms would that unit be? Do you know what color the wire is under there so I can look for it or any description of it?

igniter 78-80 landcuiser.JPG
 
As @Curt said, my '78 has the ballast resistor internal to the main wiring harness... It's a large PINK wire labeled Yazaki Resistor. By, "large", it's about the diameter of a 6ga wire.

Edit: BTW It would be spliced into a BY switched ignition wire near the fuse block and goes to close to where the rear chassis wires exit theharness where it's spliced to another BY wire that goes on to the igniter.
 
It sounds like I need some resistance. Does anyone know the ohms for that wire or a ballast equivalent?
 
I thought the 78 and newer coil/igniter was internally resisted. Electronic Dizzy. I put the same set up in a 74 and didn't need a ballast resistor.
 
Thx Pin_Head

Here's the guide for the distributor igniter differences. Note what he says about not needing the ballast resistor for 79-80. im gonna put one anyway just cause these igniters aren't cheap these days.

Dizzy FAQ
 
79 and up, the resistance it built into the wire, so you do not need another one.

The only point of using an external ballast resistor is to improve cold weather starts by using a coil that will run at 6V. In cold weather, the battery voltage drops to about 6V during engine cranking, so a normal 12V coil won't make a spark. If you have a 6V coil, you need a ballast resistor to run at 12V or it may burn out.
 
Hey JAH,
My 68 FJ40 had an external ballast resistor attached to the firewall that was not hooked up and it was broken.. I had a setup that the PO had hooked up a mile master electronic ignition setup that I removed. It had the same wires and clamps as your box of distributor, wires and coil has. I thought it had the original coil with it. Long story short, I had a really hard time getting the truck to run after I removed it and finally got it when I went with a new coil, I believe the new one has an internal ballast so you would not need an external one. With that distributor when you have the coin I recommend the pertronix. Mark on the forum here is a distributor and can help you out.
 
Last edited:
dlzadl said:
Ok so a quick question, I switched my dec 68 40 to a pertronix and a new coil. took the old ballast resistor out and off. Have not run in cold weather am I gonna have problems? I think my new coil has an internal ballast
Click to expand...

I have disconnected my ballast bypass wire and have no problems starting in 0*C weather.

If your coil is internally ballast you should be fine.
 
Jim C has stated many times that the 78 and up igniters will run fine with the full +12V applied to them, ie with no ballast resistor installed.

However to set your mind at rest, I would do this: Get the ballast resistor and hook it up. If the truck is happy while starting and running, leave it installed. It was designed to have the ballast resistor installed, though it will work without it.
 
Been running one, 79 igniter, in that original 74 harness for about 5 years. No problems yet. Probably dodging bullets but my original install was based on a deep thread where Jim C said it would work.
On my Blue 74 it does have a 78 harness.
On my Gray 70 it has a 79 harness with a 82 big cap and igniter.
 
From the really bad pic it does look to be a stock hold down clamp.
 
Can anyone tell me why there is a gap when the distributor is seated as far down as I can get it. The brass hold down clamp will not travel that far down without passing into a more narrow portion of the distributor and thus not clamp. There was this makeshift washer involved before as seen in the pic. And you can also see the aftermarket distributor is longer than the Toyota model in the other pic. Should I use this makeshift washer? Is it seated into the oil pump?

IMG_2210.JPG


IMG_2211.JPG


IMG_2212.JPG


IMG_2213.JPG


IMG_2214.JPG
 
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