2f Cam/Crank Gear Questions

[weigellj]

I think I have found out the answer on my own, but I figured I would post up here to see what the experts think.

I just bought a 1975 fj-40 with a 2f in it. PO of the PO told him that the engine was rebuilt about 200 miles ago, which I believe to be true.

The engine will start cold and run/sounds excellent/No smoke or noise's. When it starts to warm up about 2 min after running it starts to squeel/whine from the front crank area and will shut off on its own. The engine is then impossible to turn over by hand and turns super slow with the starter.

I let it sit (cool down) for about 45 min and it did the same thing:

The engine will start cold and run/sounds excellent/No smoke or noise's. When it starts to warm up about 2 min after running it starts to squeel/whine from the front crank area and will shut off on its own. The engine is then impossible to turn over by hand and turns super slow with the starter.

Kinda at a point of where do I start with the troubleshooting, what could it be.

1. I am thinking either the cam gear/crank gear were not replaced and are binding or bad.

2. The oil lubricator in the repair book that shoots oil onto the 2 gears is gone or improperly installed.

3. Improper valve adjustments (this is kinda the last thing I think it could be)

4. Engine is just fubar

One thing I do know is that it is definatly not a metalic rod knocking sound. Any imput would be great.

Also if anyone has a gear for the cam/crank they want to sell to help in the troubleshooting, that would be cool also.
Thanks

 

[folsom50]

I can't help with parts, but you are describing a problem I had shortly after my rebuild. You've described it perfectly! I never did figure out exactly what was wrong, that caused the squeeling and killing of the motor. The best I could come up with when talking with the machinists that put the bottom of my 2f together was a worn bushing in the dizzy, or the cam/crank gear you talk about (my own thoughts suggested it) The problem went away really fairly quick and I haven't had a problem since.

I also had alot of metal in the few first oil filters (I opened them myself) and got to wondering about the thrust bearing wear due to misaligned gears. But like I said, the problem went away quick and hasn't seemed to cause any problems. I run 33-9.5's at 65 mph with tons of power left over, and have put 7,000 miles on since the last squeel episode.

I believe you are looking in the right area that's causing the problem.

 

[65swb45]

That sounds really scary! I'd be more worried about main bearings myself. Of course at the first sign of trouble, I usually drop the pan to have a look around. The alternative is just too expensive not to.

Prolly have an extra timing gear I could send you for the cost of shipping.

Mark

 

[Ian Rogers]

you can get the cam gear at your local auto parts store, for about $80. to change the gear you have to pull the cam, and will need a 6" gear puller(can rent at auto parts store). instaling it all agin make sure to get the dist lined up on the compression stroke, or it will back fire like no other. dont ask how i know this one.

 

[weigellj]

Thanks for all the info, I am going to replace the gears when I get home from vacation (sitting in florida right now)

I called my parts store, but no one has it. Anywere else I can source on without paying an arm/leg. Thanks

Lee

 

[woody]

http://www.ih8mud.com/ads.php American Toyota, or PM cruiserdan on the forum...good discounts for 'MUD peeps.

Florida...ya bastage....get back up here in crappy WI!!

 

[petescoffee]

I'm with 65swb45 drop the pan. It's easy to see alot of what is going on. If no metal I would loosen and retorque your main bearings. Keeo in mind the rear main has a different torque than the others, See the service manual. Did the machine shop plastiguage the crankshaft bearings? Try and find out who rebuilt and Ask them.

Do you have lubrication at your valve train? Pull cover to see if you already haven't. Does your oil pressure guage change at all while the motor is running?
Just a few thoughts
Good Luck

 

[weigellj]

Folsom

So did you replace anything or did you just continue running it? Thinking I might pull the pan after I get in the front area, depending on what things look like. Thanks

Lee

 

[folsom50]

Nope, I didn't replace anything. If you do go through the work of pulling the front end apart, then by all means drop the pan. I am NOT an expert, but if you can't find any heavy wear in the front (cam/crank gear), then look at the front main and the front cam bearing, and feel free too PM me with what you found.

 

[60wag]

I'd be surprised if its actually the gears. I'd check the main and rod bearings. A bearing installed backwards will block the oil hole and cause big problems. Another possible problem is the wrist pins. When you're checking the rod bearings, push each piston up so that the rod is away from the crank. Move the rod side to side to check for binding.

 

[weigellj]

Well after some more checking it appears the PO's PO didn't seat the distributor all the way in causing No oil pressure uppon the rebuild. I pulled the oil filter and it looked pretty dry. I pulled the dist and did the drill/screwdriver trick. Got oil up to the filter. Reinstalled the Dist and 2f runs like a champ now. Changed the oil and everything looks/sounds good. I will be impressed if in the long run there are not problems with the engine.