25 years later

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Sep 30, 2005
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I almost sold the 80 and ended up starting a new chapter. What can I stuff under her that would fit with trimming.
 
Love the Tan 80... Congrats on the 200

Same boat here... I just don't think I'm capable of managing two ladies in my life at the same time, but would love that mindset :)
 
Loving the 80. What size tires do you have under her?

35s can be done on the 200-series with a little work. 37s have been done too with more drastic efforts.
 
Love the Tan 80... Congrats on the 200

Same boat here... I just don't think I'm capable of managing two ladies in my life at the same time, but would love that mindset :)
Thank you! I have had so many good memories and still making more with the 80 that I just could not do it!
 
Loving the 80. What size tires do you have under her?

35s can be done on the 200-series with a little work. 37s have been done too with more drastic efforts.
38 Toyos MTs! Those are my 4th set for her. Just awesome! What brand 35s would work? And, when you say little work, trimming or other stuff? Thank you!
 
38 Toyos MTs! Those are my 4th set for her. Just awesome! What brand 35s would work? And, when you say little work, trimming or other stuff? Thank you!
For 35's - either tundra front end swap or Slee KDSS swaybar relocation bracket, a lift, uca’s, correct offset wheels and fender liner trimming.
theres lots of threads on this info buried in here
 
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38s! Beefy.

There's several different strategies to fit 35s. Probably the most important thing is to use the right offset. Too little, and you rub the KDSS bar. Too much, and the additional swing of the tire as it steers, creates issues itself. Narrower 35s will give more leeway. For a full 35x12.5, you really want an offset of ~30-40mm.

That offset (pushing tires out) can be achieved with wheels, wheel spacers, or the tundra swap mentioned.

One thing that is different between the SFA 80 and IFS 200, is that lift in an IFS doesn't really add clearance. This is because the suspension stroke in an IFS is the same regardless of lift. Lift only changes the neutral/at rest point. It will still travel the same stroke when compressed, and so one therefore still needs the tire to clear when articulating.

A common strategy to fit the 35 is via upper control arms. To fix the alignment due to larger lifts, and potentially to move the tire a bit forward in the wheel well to maximize clearance at the aft part of the wheel well. There, it requires some plastic trimming. Another strategy for clearance at the rear is a body mount chop. Just the very non-structural corner where it might contact the tire, if not pulling forward aggressively with the UCA.
 
I just dropped 7k on parts to do the Tundra front end swap with Kings. Are you telling me all I need to do is run 30mm off set wheels? Also, I do not believe it is possible to run 35x12.5s with out going full blown Artic truck style and cutting out fenders
 
Oh man, one of my favorite 80’s! Save the 80, add the 200:D well that’s what we decided at least, so that’s a good decision :cheers:
 
I just dropped 7k on parts to do the Tundra front end swap with Kings. Are you telling me all I need to do is run 30mm off set wheels? Also, I do not believe it is possible to run 35x12.5s with out going full blown Artic truck style and cutting out fenders

Fender liners yes probably don’t need flares though. I don’t have the setup so could be wrong.
 
For 35's - either tundra front end swap or Slee KDSS swaybar relocation bracket, a lift, uca’s, correct offset wheels and fender liner trimming.
theres lots of threads on this info buried in here

38s! Beefy.

There's several different strategies to fit 35s. Probably the most important thing is to use the right offset. Too little, and you rub the KDSS bar. Too much, and the additional swing of the tire as it steers, creates issues itself. Narrower 35s will give more leeway. For a full 35x12.5, you really want an offset of ~30-40mm.

That offset (pushing tires out) can be achieved with wheels, wheel spacers, or the tundra swap mentioned.

One thing that is different between the SFA 80 and IFS 200, is that lift in an IFS doesn't really add clearance. This is because the suspension stroke in an IFS is the same regardless of lift. Lift only changes the neutral/at rest point. It will still travel the same stroke when compressed, and so one therefore still needs the tire to clear when articulating.

A common strategy to fit the 35 is via upper control arms. To fix the alignment due to larger lifts, and potentially to move the tire a bit forward in the wheel well to maximize clearance at the aft part of the wheel well. There, it requires some plastic trimming. Another strategy for clearance at the rear is a body mount chop. Just the very non-structural corner where it might contact the tire, if not pulling forward aggressively with the UCA.

Thank you guys! So, I ordered 1.25 spacers. It sounds like I should be able to run close to 35s with no issue and some trimming? Right? Thank you again.
 
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