2018 Rubithon Wagon Run

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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Mar 15, 2003
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I think the GOAT is getting them Hellfire knuckles err sumthin, isnt he??

Yes-a major build underway. Hopefully @MountNGoat will share progress pictures. But I think the knuckles are fabricated, not cast like the Hellfires. Maybe Front Range Offroad.

And @PabloVTA I have a spare set of 80 knuckle housings if you need to borrow. I know you'll be checking your nuts more often!:D
 

MountNGoat

KK6WRY. Always Learning
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Yes-a major build underway. Hopefully @MountNGoat will share progress pictures. But I think the knuckles are fabricated, not cast like the Hellfires. Maybe Front Range Offroad.

And @PabloVTA I have a spare set of 80 knuckle housings if you need to borrow. I know you'll be checking your nuts more often!:D
Yeah, Front Range 80-width front axle housing and their knuckles with keyed steering arms, RCV’s front and upgraded rear too in an 80 housing, and upgraded brakes so I can stop those 37’s. Also switching to an 80 series PS box with a 105 series sector shaft inside. So hopefully less chance of issues from said bigger tires!
 
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Albuquerque, NM
For those that have done it, would you recommend against a RTT. Not sure if this creates additional clearance issues, or specific obstacles that would make it more tippy? Trying to decide between the RTT or just a normal tent.

This will be on 100 series, with 35"s, and 2.5" lift.

Thanks
 
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I have never been through the rubicon but my plan for running it is to take my RTT off my 80. I just don’t like how too heavy my truck feels with it. My RTT stays on my rig full time but coming off for RUBITHON
 

JohnnyOshow22

KK0TEQ
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Apr 27, 2014
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Bozeman
For those that have done it, would you recommend against a RTT. Not sure if this creates additional clearance issues, or specific obstacles that would make it more tippy? Trying to decide between the RTT or just a normal tent.

This will be on 100 series, with 35"s, and 2.5" lift.

Thanks
I ran a Tepui Kukeman rugidized last year on my 80 for rubithon and while it was cool and made sleeping comfortable I will never put a roof top tent on my truck again. Way to tippy for my liking
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
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San Clemente
The very first time I did the trail it was spring under on 33s. No lockers so I suffered all weekend.

Do you have lower gearing? That helps a lot
I’d like to regear. My original plan was spring over on 35s with 4.88s. If I can find 4.56s for a good price I’ll throw them in. I think those will go well with 33s. I’m currently in Okinawa and due to work I haven’t done as much research as I hoped I would do as far as looking for good deals, what’s good and whats not good, etc. thankfully I have a great LC mentor, Mr. Rob Tygart who has been babysitting my 60 until I come home to knock this build out haha.
 

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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I’d like to regear. My original plan was spring over on 35s with 4.88s. If I can find 4.56s for a good price I’ll throw them in. I think those will go well with 33s. I’m currently in Okinawa and due to work I haven’t done as much research as I hoped I would do as far as looking for good deals, what’s good and whats not good, etc. thankfully I have a great LC mentor, Mr. Rob Tygart who has been babysitting my 60 until I come home to knock this build out haha.
Transfer case gearing would get you more for less. You should do both, but if time/money is short, the t-case 4:1 gears are more bang for the buck. Unfortunately, going slow, or going locked are both expensive, but both are really needed to do this with comfort and control. Hope to see you there.

Edit: One other thing. I run 4.56s with 37s. The gears would be ideal with 35s. But due to a historical accident and very low gears, they work great in my 60 with 37s.

If Rob is helping you, you'll do fine, but it's still going to be more $$ than you think. This is a normal state of affairs with Land Cruisers.
 
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Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
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San Clemente
Transfer case gearing would get you more for less. You should do both, but if time/money is short, the t-case 4:1 gears are more bang for the buck. Unfortunately, going slow, or going locked are both expensive, but both are really needed to do this with comfort and control. Hope to see you there.

Edit: One other thing. I run 4.56s with 37s. The gears would be ideal with 35s. But due to a historical accident and very low gears, they work great in my 60 with 37s.

If Rob is helping you, you'll do fine, but it's still going to be more $$ than you think. This is a normal state of affairs with Land Cruisers.
So regear the transfer case before regearing the axles since I’ll just be on 33s? Sorry for all the questions haha. I’m coming over from the mini truck world as far as crawling goes. I had a SAS’d 86 xtra cab on 35s with 5.29s that was a beast on the trail, but I’m super stoked to have crossed over to the cruiser world!
 

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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Since you're on 33s and likely headed bigger, do the transfer case or a doubler first. Changing differential gears can come later.

In an ideal world of unlimited cash, you would always match the gearing to the tires first, and the transfer case to how slow you want to go. But it's all a compromise.

Gearing the differentials is a 10-20% difference
Gearing the transfer case is an 85%-100% difference
Adding a compound reduction box like toy box or black box is a 300-400% difference.
Just pick what you need and what you can afford.

So you just need to decide how slow you need to go, for where you want to go. The Rubicon trail, rewards low gears, everything else being equal. Dusy Ershim or Fordyce even more so.

Let's talk more about this over a beer at Buck Island. Steve @MountNGoat may have some ideas about this as well since he's the 33 inch trail expert.
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
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Location
San Clemente
Since you're on 33s and likely headed bigger, do the transfer case or a doubler first. Changing differential gears can come later.

In an ideal world of unlimited cash, you would always match the gearing to the tires first, and the transfer case to how slow you want to go. But it's all a compromise.

Gearing the differentials is a 10-20% difference
Gearing the transfer case is an 85%-100% difference
Adding a compound reduction box like toy box or black box is a 300-400% difference.
Just pick what you need and what you can afford.

So you just need to decide how slow you need to go, for where you want to go. The Rubicon trail, rewards low gears, everything else being equal. Dusy Ershim or Fordyce even more so.

Let's talk more about this over a beer at Buck Island. Steve @MountNGoat may have some ideas about this as well since he's the 33 inch trail expert.
Greatly appreciated! Looking forward to meeting y’all!
 

Jetboy

 
Joined
Sep 16, 2004
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@Jetboy Thank you so much for your detailed response! We have 285/70r17 Duratracs on the stock TE wheels (no spacers), Icon Stage 2 suspension set at 3" front/2" rear lift, stock skids, MetalTech front bumper, MetalTech rear bumper, and MetalTech sliders. Sounds like some good skidplates and some good spotters will be required if I have to take my 5th Gen. The goal is to have my 2nd Gen 4Runner ready and take that. It has a 3.4l swap, dual cases, tons, 40's, etc. I just am not sure what run to sign up for! I'm worried that I may be forced to take the 5th Gen.
It sounds like the 5th gen is pretty close to what you'd need for a fun trip. I think the only "must have" to add to your list would be a skids for the transmission section and transfer case section plus the fuel tank. I spent a lot of time on the fuel tank - and oddly not a scratch on the unprotected muffler directly on the other side in the same position. The OEM front engine skid took a beating - but it also worked - no damage other than dents to the skid. I think the OEM fuel tank skid would have dented enough to cause problems. I took the OEM fuel tank skid and cut a matched pattern of the bottom from something like 11ga steel and welded it to the OEM fuel tank skid. It was intended to just be a temporary skid for that trip that I threw together the weekend before, and it's still on there. It worked just fine that way. Just need to spread the load out a bit. I also bent one of my rear lower control arms slightly. Maybe 1/2" bend over the length of it. Some reinforcement there would be worth while. My plan for this year is to reinforce those a bit or possibly just swap to some heavier duty ones. IIRC Dobinsons has a pretty decent set for about $250 if you don't have fab equipment or time. I'm usually short on time. Or just take the risk and replace when you're done with OEM style. I think a new OEM style one is only about $50.

Jeep claims they ran through with a stock Cherokee. I would love to see how that went.

This was the extent of the body damage other than the front bumper. This happened on the first really tight turn up Cadillac Hill. Sliders with a bit of bump out would have been helpful. ( - I dented the bumper cover after stopping for lunch - forgot there was a big boulder right in front and just literally drove forward right into it.) The second pic is my OEM front skids. The big dent was still a few inches from the components above it. I don't want to undersell that there is a real risk with OEM skids that you could do some damage if you're not gentle with your driving. I would suggest better ones. I replaced them with some stronger ones now.
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Jetboy

 
Joined
Sep 16, 2004
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1,350
Signed up today! Wish I had any chance of getting time to bring the FJ40, but it'll be the 4runner again.

Also -barring unforeseen problems I'll be heading from SLC, UT. I have a small flatbed trailer that I could haul small loads down if someone needs something. It's only 4x8 deck with a 3500lb axle, so unless you're bringing a Samurai - not ideal for vehicles.
 
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