2015 200 door lock actuators

[roessletb]

A few weeks ago, the front, passenger-side door began failing to unlock with the key fob. After two attempts, it was repaired by the dealer for....ahem....right around $700. A month has passed since that repair, and starting last week I'm seeing similar behavior on the driver's door. When I attempt to unlock with the fob in proximity, I get ten beeps and no unlock. Likewise, when I push the lock button on the exterior or fob, I don't get the beep to indicate all doors locked.

I'm not a huge believer in coincidences. Is it really possible that both actuators have failed within a couple months of each other?

I'm not mechanically inclined, so self-repair is not an option. I'm open to thoughts of the community on how I should proceed, with my thanks in advance.

 

[UVNH]

1. Pay the dealer

2. Buy a Dorman $200 actuator and replace yourself- it's not hard

3. Buy a $5 motor, split actuator and replace motor

Plenty of threads here and youtube videos.

I went with option 2

 

[Hatteras]

I'm not a huge believer in coincidences. Is it really possible that both actuators have failed within a couple months of each other?

Regretfully both my drivers side and passenger locks failed within 2-3 months as well. @UVNH listed the options.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

The previous owner of my 2013 lx also had passenger and driver door actuators replaced. Seems like about six months apart. I think it is pretty common on Toyota.

 

[terdrocket]

I had two of mine go out within weeks of each other. I ordered the parts online and replaced them myself. Not a hard job, just fiddly. Take photos of the old installed before removal for reference in installing the new.

 

[SCDerby]

1. Pay the dealer

2. Buy a Dorman $200 actuator and replace yourself- it's not hard

3. Buy a $5 motor, split actuator and replace motor

Plenty of threads here and youtube videos.

I went with option 2

I did option 3 when my driver lock began to fail. Bought the 5 motors from Amazon and did the job myself. It was really easy as well as super cheap.

 

[adriannyc]

HI all,

Both my rear went and I'm definitely going for option 3. Can anyone tell me which size or length actuator to get for my 2010 LX570? With or without the collar?
Thanks a bunch!

 

[SCDerby]

HI all,

Both my rear went and I'm definitely going for option 3. Can anyone tell me which size or length actuator to get for my 2010 LX570? With or without the collar?
Thanks a bunch!

These are the motors that I used:
4 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central... Amazon product ASIN B01CDIFLAK
You will take out the actual actuator and split it open to replace the motor. There is a good guide linked here if you do a search.

 

[adriannyc]

Thanks for the info!

 

[Recon Aircrew]

A few weeks ago, the front, passenger-side door began failing to unlock with the key fob. After two attempts, it was repaired by the dealer for....ahem....right around $700. A month has passed since that repair, and starting last week I'm seeing similar behavior on the driver's door. When I attempt to unlock with the fob in proximity, I get ten beeps and no unlock. Likewise, when I push the lock button on the exterior or fob, I don't get the beep to indicate all doors locked.

I'm not a huge believer in coincidences. Is it really possible that both actuators have failed within a couple months of each other?

I'm not mechanically inclined, so self-repair is not an option. I'm open to thoughts of the community on how I should proceed, with my thanks in advance.

Same thing happened to me. One failed shortly after the other. Both fronts replaced. Now one of the rear actuators is out.

 

[aljogav]

These are the motors that I used:
4 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central... Amazon product ASIN B01CDIFLAK
You will take out the actual actuator and split it open to replace the motor. There is a good guide linked here if you do a search.

Was the 10 mm shaft long enough or did you have to JB Weld or extend it? Does anybody know if 100 and 200 Series use the same motors? Thanks.

 

[ArnieC]

My good ol WRX had a weak door lock on the hatch, instead of fixing it or buying a new one, I took it apart, hosed the motor itself out with motor contact cleaner and reassembled. On the Subaru I had to drill two small 1/8" holes in the plastic lock assy, it was plastic welded together and I didnt want to risk damage at disassembly. I drilled one hole above the motor and one hole below, flushed it out. Then sealed the holes with a dab of RTV.

Worked fine for the 2 more years I had it and probably still going today.

Those little motors have soft brushes that get the armatures all gunked up. A little contact cleaner got it back into business.

 

[bloc]

Like the OP this is really bothering me that it seems so common to happen in pairs. And yet most of our trucks haven't had the problem at all.

Could it be something wrong with a central control module sending too much or too little voltage or something? I might have to do some digging into a wiring diagram to look for commonalities.

 

[Markuson]

Like the OP this is really bothering me that it seems so common to happen in pairs. And yet most of our trucks haven't had the problem at all.

Could it be something wrong with a central control module sending too much or too little voltage or something? I might have to do some digging into a wiring diagram to look for commonalities.

Weird possible factor & possible solution.
Bear with me. It’s weird and requires explanation:

I had a very interesting results after noticing similar failures in my door handle sensors and also the ability of my remote to unlock the doors at all by pressing the button. I replaced the batteries in the fobs and it did no good. It was so bad that even touching my key Farb to the start button sometimes failed. But...they did work...just with terribly bad range.

Then something interesting happened:

-Two days ago I noticed that my seat driver position programming buttons had lost their settings and needed to be reprogrammed. **This only happens when all battery power is lost or disconnected in the truck.**

The reason I think this might possibly be relevant to the key FOB failure is...
...that from the moment my drivers seat position programming buttons had to be reprogrammed… (or lost power via reset?)...
...**My key FOBs suddenly work PERFECTLY again ever since...with full range, handle sensors working, proximity lighting coming on when nearing the locked truck etc.

This leaves me wondering if there is any possibility that the key fob sensors might somehow have the ability to **reset connectivity… after a power loss.

I have nothing to prove it with, the miraculous fix happened at the same time.

No promise or basis to assume it will work, but try disconnecting a battery terminal, which does reset some other things. Who know? In teestablishing fob connection...MAYBE you’ll find a similar result.
Or not.

Can’t hurt to try tho.
If it doesn’t work...no harm done.
But if it does, we will have discovered something new.

 

[Markuson]

PS. To the above possibility...

In trying to troubleshoot using the service manual (not owner manual but actual service manual), it went into a more detailed description (for service techs) of the whole wireless entry, start, proximity, door handle, FOB system. There is a lot more going on within the system than meets the eye.

Each of the many sensors (there are at least 5...) have to communicate with the main system. There’s a sensor with the cushion of the driver seat...more sensors for each door...and a main processor near the driver side dash. Then there is a pretty extensive list of possible culprits in the even of various failures or loss of calibration.

Whatever happened in my truck upon reset as described above...I’m wondering if the main processor that handles the various sensors did some sort of reset just as the seat position buttons reset (blank the 3 memory buttons) did.

Again... I don’t know.
I just know my FOBs both work as well or better than ever...after going nearly two weeks barely working at all.

All of that leads me to wonder if some sort of reset happened...