2008 LX570 with 177k mi pre purchase questions

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41togo

41togo

Joined
Jun 22, 2022
Threads
26
Messages
128
Location
Los Angeles
Currently long term owner of a 02 LC100 195k mi during my ownership replaced brakes, starter, alternator, timing belt, fuse box, all suspension bushings, shocks, radiator, door locks, and the expensive master cylinder. The 100 is super reliable, no cheap but reasonable but expecting a higher maintenance cost on the 200.
Recently looking for something more comfortable and learning about the LX570 is something special where wasn’t considering before. And the common issues like coolant valley leak, cam leaks, and chain noise ant higher mileage. Appears desirable year is 14 and 15 with the improvement on head gasket. But they are also my max budget. I found this ad appears accident free and clean inside out. I plan to have a Lexus dealer to do a PPI, would an Indy shop be better option as I really like to have the valley coolant borescope etc what are the findings would be a no go to walk away ? Are these early 200 needing head gasket ie pre 2013? Asking price $22k with 177k miles no accidents 2 owners but little maintenance history… oh yeah no rust. I’m in So Cal and the seller in Sacramento. Thanks!



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It’s hard to say what would be a go-no-go PPI result up front. If you like the vehicle and price, get the PPI at a place you trust and post back here with any specifics. And realize any 18 year old will need something.
 
Best advice secondary to an inspection is to buy from a long-term owner private party.
 
Also a note on your ‘200 maintenance more expensive’ comment. I have owned a 100 and 200 since new. The 100 is definitely more expensive for routine maintenance than the 200. By a lot. The 100 has a timing belt that needs replaced every 90k. The 200 uses timing chains that do not. It also has things like greasable wheel bearings that require manual regreasing ( very messy) whereas the 200 uses sealed bearings.

I have found the 100 to cost 2x the 200 cost so far.
 
@stonepa that’s encouraging news! I’ve always thought the -200 maintenance would be much more than the -100. I’m little OCD on maintenance but the -100 kept me very busy on just the known issues…and quite expensive without going into the engine. Never got stuck or let me down except an intermittent starting contributed to the fuse box. My occasional camping trip with grandkids doesn’t not require to have a LC so I looked into the LX. Appears better ride and build quality, there’s seems to have more choices in So Cal. I recently bid on a 14 LC but got outbid at $32k, then noticed more LX available. With the discussion on coolant valley, cam leaks, and head gasket kind of making me stay away but I think most are reliable to 250k miles. I prefer the simpler look of the earlier 08 LX but appears the years preferable are 14/15. Thanks
 
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41togo said:
My occasional camping trip with grandkids doesn’t not require to have a LC so I looked into the LX.
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Welcome and good luck on your search.

FYSA, this sentiment couldn't be more wrong. The LX is every bit an LC and then some. Some of the more extreme builds on the boards are of LX flavor.
 
I was in your shoes two weeks ago. Have a 2002 lx470 with 300k miles. Private seller 2013 lx570 with 200k miles came up for a sweet deal so I jumped on it knowing the potential head gasket issues.

I’d run a car fax and punch in the vin (if you can get it) to the Lexus site and pull as much history as possible. One I bought had a clean title and 5k oil changes. No accidents disclosed but car fax noted selling dealer (was originally a lease) reported structural damage. Went into deep due diligence looking for bondo, looking a bumper/rad supports, body panels replacement, paint, calling the dealer that reported it in 2017. Found nothing so didn’t scare me off. Otherwise I would’ve walked. Undercarriage is like my lx470 that lived in California. Huge for me since I’ve done everything on my 100 series myself.

Radiator replaced two/three years ago. New 2018 design. Old unit had an hairline crack and was losing fluid. After hearing this I was worried the engine already had an overheating event and the head gasket was leaking. Almost walked but no history of coolant being topped off since then. Was seller’s wife’s car and she put like 40k miles since. I figured it it was gonna go, it would’ve gone by now. Took the rad cap off and it was full and the reservoir still had fluid.

No codes. No valley leak. No cam tower leak. Nothing besides the car fax flag and rad replacement which was still throwing all sorts of alarm bells for me. Given the price, I closed the deal.

Once I got it home, I confirmed radiator didn’t accept any more fluid when filling from the cap, but maybe it’s drawing from the reservoir. I marked the reservoir and levels are consistent the past two weeks. I let it sit for a week and no white smoke or misfires on startup. Going to send oil to the lab. Maybe I’ll pressurize the cooling system for a while and check each cylinder with a boroscope to see if there’s a head gasket leak. For now, I figure I’m good and if it does spring a leak, hopefully I catch it soon enough to avoid warping the block and heads. Then I’ll take on the head gasket replacement myself.

No idea what the frequency is but it doesn’t seem like every 200 series pops a head gasket. Is it time? Milage? Heat cycles? HG issues in 3URs seem worryingly high but I do hang out on these forums. On the other hand, there are plenty of people who’ve driven pre 2015 rigs 300k miles without blowing a head gasket. I’m going to be vigilant but keep my fingers crossed I can get many more trouble free miles.

If the seller accommodates, I’d do everything to rule out a head gasket leak. It’s a massive undertaking diy and will nuke the expected value of a deal if you need to have it done at a shop. If you need to pay someone to do the head gasket, a donor engine might make more economic sense. I moved a bit too quickly to have the luxury of doing a lot of these checks to rule out head gasket issues before buying. I might’ve gotten away with it this time but I don’t plan to test my luck again. If I could see even a hint of hg issue, I’d have listed the rig back out there immediately. I didn’t pay much so I think risk of taking a bath on the rig was low
 
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One other thing, be extra careful with cars from Sacramento area. Rebuilding cars is a big business there. I recently came across this "clean title" listing (see below), come to find out it's a salvage title vehicle. In fact one of the members on here ran a Carfax and then found photos of the same vehicle after the accident.

Facebook

www.facebook.com www.facebook.com
 
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2002LX said:
I was in your shoes two weeks ago. Have a 2002 lx470 with 300k miles. Private seller 2013 lx570 with 200k miles came up for a sweet deal so I jumped on it knowing the potential head gasket issues.

I’d run a car fax and punch in the vin (if you can get it) to the Lexus site and pull as much history as possible. One I bought had a clean title and 5k oil changes. No accidents disclosed but car fax noted selling dealer (was originally a lease) reported structural damage. Went into deep due diligence looking for bondo, looking a bumper/rad supports, body panels replacement, paint, calling the dealer that reported it in 2017. Found nothing so didn’t scare me off. Otherwise I would’ve walked. Undercarriage is like my lx470 that lived in California. Huge for me since I’ve done everything on my 100 series myself.

Radiator replaced two/three years ago. New 2018 design. Old unit had an hairline crack and was losing fluid. After hearing this I was worried the engine already had an overheating event and the head gasket was leaking. Almost walked but no history of coolant being topped off since then. Was seller’s wife’s car and she put like 40k miles since. I figured it it was gonna go, it would’ve gone by now. Took the rad cap off and it was full and the reservoir still had fluid.

No codes. No valley leak. No cam tower leak. Nothing besides the car fax flag and rad replacement which was still throwing all sorts of alarm bells for me. Given the price, I closed the deal.

Once I got it home, I confirmed radiator didn’t accept any more fluid when filling from the cap, but maybe it’s drawing from the reservoir. I marked the reservoir and levels are consistent the past two weeks. I let it sit for a week and no white smoke or misfires on startup. Going to send oil to the lab. Maybe I’ll pressurize the cooling system for a while and check each cylinder with a boroscope to see if there’s a head gasket leak. For now, I figure I’m good and if it does spring a leak, hopefully I catch it soon enough to avoid warping the block and heads. Then I’ll take on the head gasket replacement myself.

No idea what the frequency is but it doesn’t seem like every 200 series pops a head gasket. Is it time? Milage? Heat cycles? HG issues in 3URs seem worryingly high but I do hang out on these forums. On the other hand, there are plenty of people who’ve driven pre 2015 rigs 300k miles without blowing a head gasket. I’m going to be vigilant but keep my fingers crossed I can get many more trouble free miles.

If the seller accommodates, I’d do everything to rule out a head gasket leak. It’s a massive undertaking diy and will nuke the expected value of a deal if you need to have it done at a shop. If you need to pay someone to do the head gasket, a donor engine might make more economic sense. I moved a bit too quickly to have the luxury of doing a lot of these checks to rule out head gasket issues before buying. I might’ve gotten away with it this time but I don’t plan to test my luck again. If I could see even a hint of hg issue, I’d have listed the rig back out there immediately. I didn’t pay much so I think risk of taking a bath on the rig was low
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It's not a 1fz or a 3vz. You're definitely worrying too much about the head gaskets :D
 
So an update… and thank you for all the info. I contacted the dealer appears they are not very eager to entertain dropping it off to the Lexus dealer for PPI even I offered to pay for the inspection. They suggest they have a more economical tech or shop. Given the distances, I’m looking for other LXs. As I getting more educated on the topic, I’m convinced that the LX570 definitely less maintenance related cost than the LC100. When I adding up my ownership in the last 12 years, from 130k to now 195k so about 7k a year although most are age, mileage related but it’s over $15k in addition to almost $4k for the new master booster cylinder and labor. Small items like door lock actuators to problematic CD changers are replaced more than once. Super reliable and excellent truck, but not cheap. Bulletproof engine with perfect Blackstone report. I think the 5.7 engine may be less robust than the 4.7? Based on YTube car care guy. What scares me is that few shops including the dealership got the technical expertise on engines. But overall the LX570 is a better vehicle. Now I’m search for a 14/15 model year or even a 16. I think the newer the LX the better ? I personally prefer the older model less fancy as a second car, I have too many cars already with a 996, SC, M5, Macan, but getting older so the LC ending up the vehicle of choice going out. So now I’ll have to increase my budget, new question would be whether the 16 model year worth the extra $10k and are they basically same vehicle with improved electronics. Again thank you !
 
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16+ 200 series have better brakes, different (8 speed) transmissions, and a few other things I’m forgetting. But yes, different electronics suite too iirc.
 
They look pretty good on 35's too
2026-08-16 16.59.31.webp
 
You'll have to double your budget if you want 16+, almost tripple if it's an LC. I just picked up a 16 LC and had to fight 60 other potential buyers for it. Clean low mile LCs are hard to find.
 
Heckraiser said:
It's not a 1fz or a 3vz. You're definitely worrying too much about the head gaskets :D
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Statistically you’re probably right but it would suck to draw the short straw! There’s that thread about sample size where things got a little heated and based on that it doesn’t even sound like a 1/100 occurrence. But downside is catastrophic so I’m going to be a freak out it. That said, I’m putting miles on it with no worries. Zero change in coolant levels. Lucked out with zero leaks except for when the PO changed the radiator due to it cracking
 
Putting budget aside, I kind of prefer the pre 2016 model better, not as fancy although higher mileage and less robust than the 16 and up. 5k miles max annually an upgrade on ride and performance over my 02 LC. I know my truck inside out very reliable hate to part with it but if a good one comes along. I found this one cars n bids. If stays in the mid twenties.

carsandbids.com

2013 Lexus LX 570 - 3UR-FE 5.7L V8, Full-Time 4WD, 1 Owner Since 2014, Luxury Package, Unmodified

This 2013 Lexus LX 570 is for sale on Cars & Bids! Auction ends August 28 2026.
carsandbids.com carsandbids.com
 
41togo said:
What do you guys think about the steering rack replacement eventually? $5k or more?
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L

Thread 'Removing steering rack'

Before writing this post I have searched the internet for days and ih8mud site deeply for any technical reviews of how to remove the steering rack on 200 series with a 2uz v8 engine. I have seen some comments where people say that in the Toyota manual the first step is to remove the engine!!!!

Linuxgod has gratefully supported me by sending me the link to the 40GB repair manual bit I tried more than once and it didn't work for me.

I have spent the whole weekend and still no luck on getting the rack out.

What I have done:

1.Remove the tierod end bolts to the knuckels
2.Unbolted the 3...

@linuxgod paid $2800 paid at Toyota dealership. Toyota dealership have a special tool that makes it easier. The part is in thread above.
 
32cls6speedmt said:
L

Thread 'Removing steering rack'

Before writing this post I have searched the internet for days and ih8mud site deeply for any technical reviews of how to remove the steering rack on 200 series with a 2uz v8 engine. I have seen some comments where people say that in the Toyota manual the first step is to remove the engine!!!!

Linuxgod has gratefully supported me by sending me the link to the 40GB repair manual bit I tried more than once and it didn't work for me.

I have spent the whole weekend and still no luck on getting the rack out.

What I have done:

1.Remove the tierod end bolts to the knuckels
2.Unbolted the 3...

@linuxgod paid $2800 paid at Toyota dealership. Toyota dealership have a special tool that makes it easier. The part is in thread above.
Click to expand...
Yep. Mine was finally leaking enough to require filling monthly.
 
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