2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (1 Viewer)

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TexAZ said:
swapping out the radiator can be done in as little as an hour. There are some tricks that will help.
Remove the skid plate and drain the radiator, while it is draining, on the new radiator, take off the passenger's side plastic mounting piece.
back to the truck, disconnect the hoses. disconnect the trans cooler lines.
take out the screws/nuts that hold the fan shroud. remove the passenger's side radiator mount bolts from the radiator. leave the mount in place.
on the driver's side, use the holes in the grill to remove the radiator mount bolts (leave this piece on the radiator)
View attachment 1297891
driver's side Radiator mounting bolt as seen through the grill

From below, slide the radiator up. Once it is about half way out, you can pull it out from the top. having an assistant at this point will help greatly.
slide in the new radiator and reconnect in opposite order.
Click to expand...
thanks for this..mine just failed at 167k time to order up a new rad
 
alexinWC said:
*Extreme Conjecture Below*

I wanted to see if I could ballpark the failure rate of the radiator through the use of the information on this forum and the internet as well as narrow down the timing of the failures. On this thread alone, the following users have had radiator failures/ cracking (complete with model year and miles listed are as of the event date):
@jclarke450 - 08 at 166K miles
@INTP - 08 at 143K
@NetJunky - 09 at 135k
@BTUMAN - 08 at 94K
@MEMCruiser - 08 at 185K
@Softride62 - 08 at 110K
@DSallean - 08 at 129K
@thechief24 - 08 at 112K
@Markuson - 08 at 81K
@mreedbmwm3 - 139K
@TexAZ - 08 -
@ranma21 - 11 at 82k

I was able to find two additional cases of radiator failure in another 200 section thread.
@Utahsteve - 08 at 100k
@Fahad -

Number of Failures:
14 total failures, 10 were 2008 model, 1 was 2009, 1 was 2011, and 2 unknown. All are Land Cruisers except for the 2011 LX 570 despite them using the same radiator. This could be because the 200 section is mainly LC owners. I checked the 3rd gen LX 570 section on clublexus but wasn't able to find any failures.

Mileage of Failures:
Failures occurred at an average of ~123,000 miles with a standard deviation of ~31,000 miles (numbers only take into account vehicles who's mileage at the failure was recorded). All are believed to have occurred within the last two years.

Failure Rate:
There is no way a good baseline for failure rate. The MUD population is too small and there is no way to accurately count the number of owners of the 08-11 model year. This thread shows 71 currently owned from 2008-2011 (How many 200's on ih8mud). Assuming all MUD owners input their info (which didn't happen and is a bad assumption), this puts the failure rate at ~20% (take with a Land Cruiser-sized grain of salt)
Click to expand...

2008 LC with 167k

radiator.jpg
 
I just posted this on another thread... but probably more pertinent here. So sorry for the double post:

I just replaced my radiator, upper and lower hoses, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, serpentine belt, tensioner, pulley, and flushed my coolant this past weekend. My 2010 has 162k on it and the radiator was leaking. Everything else I replaced actually looked like they were still in really good shape considering the mileage.... at least no visual damage or extra play that I could tell....

I also ended up cleaning out my throttle body... which wasn't part of my plan but after putting everything together i started getting P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open. I must have dislodged some soot when I stuck a rag in there while working on everything else. The throttle body was extremely dirty! BTW, when you get the P2111 error... the vehicle goes into extreme limp mode. Depressing the accelerator only raised my RPMs by 100 or 200 over idle... so not a fun one to have pop up on me when I was a mile away from the house when testing out all the stuff I just replaced.

I purchased all four oxygen sensors and a new MAF sensor as well... but decided to make sure everything was running okay with all the parts I replaced before messing with anything else.

I did a lot of research on the parts and tried to figure out the OEM manufacturer for all the parts so I could purchase them from Rock Auto for a fraction of the OEM price. The only parts I probably would have done differently are the hoses and pulley. I knew the hoses I purchased weren't the OEM manufacturer but I figured they were rubber so who gives... but they seemed significantly thinner than the OEM hoses I removed. Also the idler pulley I put on immediately threw white grease after running it for 10 mins. I'm not sure if that is normal or not, but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Here are the part numbers I got from Rock Auto:

View attachment 1663678

I also bought these on Amazon as it was a better price:
View attachment 1663679

I picked up all the coolant at my local dealership with my TLCA 15% discount.

I followed the advice to reuse the passenger side radiator mount off the old radiator so I didn't have to remove the bumper and grill and that worked really well. The one thing that I did get caught up on was draining coolant from the engine block. It took me forever to find the cylinder block drain cock plugs as shown in the diagram below. The driver's side was almost impossible to see... and incredibly hard to reach. You can see the passenger side plug through the wheel well fairly easily... but the driver's side isn't in the same spot... I jacked the car up, stuck my head between the tire and fender and closed one eye and could just make it out (would have been slightly easier without the tire on). I had to use about 16" of extensions and and pivoting socket to reach it... luckily you just need to loosen the nut to drain it otherwise I never would have attempted as I doubt I could have gotten it back on without pulling the whole engine. If anyone needs any help finding these I can go out and take a picture.
View attachment 1663680
 
My radiator did not fail yet, but I dont want to be stranded in the middle of no where if it DOES fail, trying to eliminate this failure mode as a weakness of the URJ200's design.
Replaced radiator, idler pulley, tensioner, thermostat, PCV valve, water pump and upper/lower hoses. 141k. 2008 MY URJ200.
 
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I read the first 8 pages of this thread and now the last two pages and it seems to me the radiator issue has only surfaced on the 08-11 model year 200. Is that correct? If so, how do we explain this considering the part no for the 2013+ are the same for the radiator.
 
Coupedncal said:
I read the first 8 pages of this thread and now the last two pages and it seems to me the radiator issue has only surfaced on the 08-11 model year 200. Is that correct? If so, how do we explain this considering the part no for the 2013+ are the same for the radiator.
Click to expand...

They are different, maybe the uprevs in PN means the failure issues have been mitigated, hopefully.

16400-50380 (09/2007-09/2009)
16400-50381 (09/2009-01/2012)
16400-50382 (01/2012-01/2013)
16400-50384 (01/2013+)
 
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Ok. I'm using Partsouq, but it looks like I have Production dates instead of application dates. My fault.

edit: actually, maybe "Production date" means model year (MY) production dates, not radiator production dates. confused.
 
1HaytchZed said:
Ok. I'm using Partsouq, but it looks like I have Production dates instead of application dates. My fault.

edit: actually, maybe "Production date" means model year (MY) production dates, not radiator production dates. confused.
Click to expand...

Those dates are the production date for the Land Cruiser. However, your part numbers are most probably the original part number fitted to those vehicles. My point is, those old part numbers (16400-50381, 16400-50382 and 16400-50383) have been replaced with a new part number 16400-50384.

So, today, if you go to a Toyota dealer and order a new radiator for a 2010 Model Year Land Cruiser, which was originally equipped with radiator part number 16400-50381, they will order a new radiator part number 16400-50384 for that 2010 LC.

Clear as mud, right?

HTH
 
gaijin said:
Those dates are the production date for the Land Cruiser. However, your part numbers are most probably the original part number fitted to those vehicles. My point is, those old part numbers (16400-50381, 16400-50382 and 16400-50383) have been replaced with a new part number 16400-50384.

So, today, if you go to a Toyota dealer and order a new radiator for a 2010 Model Year Land Cruiser, which was originally equipped with radiator part number 16400-50381, they will order a new radiator part number 16400-50384 for that 2010 LC.

Clear as mud, right?

HTH
Click to expand...


Right. That makes sense. Which also supports the theory that these failure issues would have been mitigated if they want all URJ200 to be using the new PN.
 
1HaytchZed said:
Right. That makes sense. Which also supports the theory that these failure issues would have been mitigated if they want all URJ200 to be using the new PN.
Click to expand...

Yes, EXCEPT, the 2008 and 2009 Model Year Land Cruisers still require the original radiator part number 16400-50380. That original part number has not been replaced. So, if you walk into a Toyota dealer and order a new radiator for a 2008LC, you will get the original part number 16400-50380.

I have no explanation as to why that is the case.

HTH
 
1HaytchZed said:
They are different, maybe the uprevs in PN means the failure issues have been mitigated, hopefully.

16400-50380 (09/2007-09/2009)
16400-50381 (09/2009-01/2012)
16400-50382 (01/2012-01/2013)
16400-50384 (01/2013+)
Click to expand...
Failure issues have not been mitigated. My ‘13 rad just went with 94k on it. Hairline cracked n the usual spot
 
So we're forced with replacing a faulty part with catastrophic consequences with another with no remedy. Toyota quality is heading in the wrong direction.
 
1HaytchZed said:
So we're forced with replacing a faulty part with catastrophic consequences with another with no remedy. Toyota quality is heading in the wrong direction.
Click to expand...
This is what I was worried about. I see everyone replacing their radiators but no one knows if they are putting in the same (expensive) defective part that's just gonna blow again one day.
I may try the Fiberglass patch and wait for a deal on a KOYORAD.
 
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