2006 LX Transmission Issues (1 Viewer)

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I send in oil analysis on our cars about once a year. I've done ATF as well, just write in that its ATF. Best if you know what type of ATF was used. That being said, obviously there is no ATF that comes with wear metals in it so it will serve your purposes.

I have paid between $25-30 for those tests each. Think its like $28 now and they pay shipping. Test Kits are free and they mail to you.
 
Typically revving and not moving is a burnt 1st clutch. This is very rare anymore on Toyotas, but I have seen it on a LX470 (2001 I think??) with no previous signs of wear. I work at a Toyota dealer and to my knowledge we have had only a couple come in like that across all Toyota/Lexus models. It doesn't happen very often, but it can.
 
Typically revving and not moving is a burnt 1st clutch. This is very rare anymore on Toyotas, but I have seen it on a LX470 (2001 I think??) with no previous signs of wear. I work at a Toyota dealer and to my knowledge we have had only a couple come in like that across all Toyota/Lexus models. It doesn't happen very often, but it can.
Thanks. How do you diagnose that?
 
Check out Blackstone Laboratories.

I send in oil analysis on our cars about once a year. I've done ATF as well, just write in that its ATF. Best if you know what type of ATF was used. That being said, obviously there is no ATF that comes with wear metals in it so it will serve your purposes.

I have paid between $25-30 for those tests each. Think its like $28 now and they pay shipping. Test Kits are free and they mail to you.
Appreciate the scoop.
 
Thanks. What might have the revving and not moving be?

Low fluid.

From a stop it won't engage drive at all, or engages but then revs and barely moves/revving when you accelerate = torque converter low on fluid, can't build pressure. Likely will slip under loads.

Revving during/between shifts or wont shift into gear at all: solenoid can't get band/clutch packs to engage because not enough hydraulic pressure in system to engage next gear set.

Adding fluid back into the system after fixing the leak will correct all these issues and if caught early it can be mostly fine. That being said, its on the second owner and how long and how hard was the vehicle driven with low fluid is unknown (or you have to take the current owner's word for it).

The slipping in and of itself isn't bad, its the heat and wear from not having enough fluid to cool and lubricate components, or slamming when the clutch pack engages the next gear set that can be rough.

Disclaimer: I'm not a transmission guy, but have pulled and installed a few.
 
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Low fluid.

From a stop it won't engage drive at all, or engages but then revs and barely moves/revving when you accelerate = torque converter low on fluid, can't build pressure. Can also slip under loads.

Between shifts or wont shift into gear at all: solenoid can't get band/clutch pack to engage because not enough hydraulic pressure in system to engage next gear set.

Adding fluid back into the system after fixing the leak will correct all these issues and if caught early it can be mostly fine. That being said, its on the second owner and how long and how hard was the vehicle driven with low fluid is unknown (or you have to take the current owner's word for it).

The slipping in and of itself isn't bad, its the heat and wear from not having enough fluid to cool and lubricate components, or slamming when the clutch pack engages the next gear set that can be rough.

My thoughts.
Great info thanks.

Looking back through the records she had an unexplained leak that they couldn't find the source of and the Lexus tech said maybe the evaporator. That was at 119k.

Then the transmission issues started 7 months later at 137k for the next few months up to 146k (about 28k miles and 10 months later) before they identified the leaking tranny pan gasket at 151k yet another 3 months and 5k miles later.
 
Great info thanks.

Looking back through the records she had an unexplained leak that they couldn't find the source of and the Lexus tech said maybe the evaporator. That was at 119k.

Then the transmission issues started 7 months later at 137k for the next few months up to 146k (about 28k miles and 10 months later) before they identified the leaking tranny pan gasket at 151k yet another 3 months and 5k miles later.

To quote my Scandanavian relatives. "Uffda"
 
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Thanks.... Yeh I am.... but thinking that you guys would know way more about the potential pitfalls and possible inspection to validate issues. It was owned by a lady 1st owner until fairly recently (trying to find out when ownership changed hands) then bought by a guy who's now trying to sell it. He's asking $10,500 I believe which is a good price looking at NADA, KBB and Black Book prices esp with 100 series which in my experience typically go for like 20 - 40 % over book.

$10,500 for an 06 LX is seriously cheap if it's clean and complete. More typical pricing is ~$17-22k, even with 200k miles.

The trans issue wouldn't scare me in the slightest at that price point. Dealer pricing is apparently $5k for a reman trans installed. Probably far, far less if you find a good indy shop and have yours rebuilt. Normally an auto trans rebuild is around $1k, plus R&R labor.

If it's clean and rust free I'd go for it and just keep $5k stashed away in a mutual fund in case the trans fails.
 

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