Builds 2005 Sequoia Limited Build Thread (17 Viewers)

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I'll be surprised if you don't have to cut most or all of the cams/bolts out. I'd pre-buy the parts from your local Toyota dealer and take them back if you don't need them.
You cursed me.... Did the drivers side in 30 minutes without issue. Then came the passenger side.... Had to cut both out, not sure why that side was stuck. Toyota had one sleeve in stock and had to order the other, supposed to be here tomorrow so I'll get it finished up.
 
You cursed me.... Did the drivers side in 30 minutes without issue. Then came the passenger side.... Had to cut both out, not sure why that side was stuck. Toyota had one sleeve in stock and had to order the other, supposed to be here tomorrow so I'll get it finished up.
Went through the same ordeal with my buddy's first gen Tundra. The rig was even rust-free! With a good coating of anti- sieze they should stay free in the future.
 
Well about got everything wrapped up. Just finished the fuel pump replacement. Was having a hesitation randomly, almost felt like the wind blowing it was so slight, but I knew it was there. Took about an hour on the garage floor with my sons assistance and an empty tank. Seems to have been the issue. With 186k that's about when everyone I've seen with a bad pump says it starts to go. For some reason my shifting has also improved with the fuel pump change, not sure why. It used to hold shifts ridiculously long before it would shift, sometimes I would have to press the overdrive button on and off to get it to go into overdrive. It does not do that anymore.

I replaced the rear control arms top and bottom as well so have fresh bushings all around except track bar and sway bar links. Driving much more solid and have enjoyed it all over again

Still have the timing belt, water pump, and belt tensioner to do, but that will probably be in the next 6 months.
 
Finally got the intermittent horn fixed. So research says the ground is maintained through dialectric grease in the column bearing. My horn would work randomly depending on the wheel turn. I found a post on stealing a ground from the cruise control. So took out the two bolts t27 on the side of the steering wheel and removed the air bag. I unplugged the cruise plug, 3 wires, black red and white. The cruise shares a ground at the main connector with the radio controls if you have them. I T tapped it and grounded a screw at the top of the steering wheel mount. Reinstalled the air bag and done.

Going to harbor freight tomorrow to pick up their Hella knock of horns to try them out.
 
Do NOT stand in front of the truck and tell your son to test the horn.... These are loud, seriously, don't do that

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Didn't know HF had those and they are so cheap! I'll have to pick up a set. The OEM horns of most Japanese cars suck in both tone/volume, including Toyota/Lexus SUVs.

Did you wire in the relay or just connect them to the OEM horn wires and ground them? Looks like these draw ~5-6 amps and the OEM horn circuit (at least in my GX) has a 10A fuse. I'd like to skip the relay if possible.
 
Didn't know HF had those and they are so cheap! I'll have to pick up a set. The OEM horns of most Japanese cars suck in both tone/volume, including Toyota/Lexus SUVs.

Did you wire in the relay or just connect them to the OEM horn wires and ground them? Looks like these draw ~5-6 amps and the OEM horn circuit (at least in my GX) has a 10A fuse. I'd like to skip the relay if possible.
Just grounded them to the mounting screw and used the stock wiring harness, it's just a glorified female spade connector. There are 2 male spades in the horns, neither is labeled
 
Just grounded them to the mounting screw and used the stock wiring harness, it's just a glorified female spade connector. There are 2 male spades in the horns, neither is labeled
Great! I'll pick up a set. Still have bad memories of nearly getting ran off the road by a Cummins while my weak OEM horns were trying to blare...
 
What size are the tires? I know they are 34s, but are they 285/75-17s or what? I’m going to ditch the Falken (phuh-king) AT3s asap and go back to Toyo MTs. I’m sort of stuck with 18s as the PO decided to put 18” Methods on mine. Likely go 285/70-18, but if someone were to offer me enough, I’d get a set of the TRD 17s like you’re running…
 
What size are the tires? I know they are 34s, but are they 285/75-17s or what? I’m going to ditch the Falken (phuh-king) AT3s asap and go back to Toyo MTs. I’m sort of stuck with 18s as the PO decided to put 18” Methods on mine. Likely go 285/70-18, but if someone were to offer me enough, I’d get a set of the TRD 17s like you’re running…
Yes, 285/75/17
 
Are you running spacers? Looks good man....really good. I am adding hood lights to mine as well as soon as my brackets come in.
 
I must be getting old. I don’t get the point of the lights in the grill.:meh:
 
I must be getting old. I don’t get the point of the lights in the grill.:meh:
Yes, you must be getting old, probably tell kids to get off your lawn too. 😂

I don't see the point in doing anything to any of the vehicles that I have owned, but I do them because I enjoy working with my hands and customizing vehicles to my liking. 🧑‍🔧
 
Think I forgot to post that I replaced the hatch latch as well. Found an oem on ebay for $65 with new cable as well. I used to have to slam it to get it to shut, now I can just push it closed like new. Now I don't mind opening the hatch. While I was at it I put on another set of HD struts to open the rear door. Last set lasted about 5 years.

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Built a new rack over the holidays while home. Took the factory rack off and welded a quick unistrut frame with a plate fairing and moved the expanded sheet over. Used the 10 factory locations with some 10.5 hardware. Sits a half inch off the roof at the highest part in the middle. About 3 inches more clearance now going into the garage. I found an 8' awning on marketplace for $100 new, think I will try and make some mounts for that. Not sure if I'll keep it permanently on there or not

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