2003 LX Steering Rack - same as LC?
- Thread starter rohitash
- Start date
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So I found a leak in my PS rack, best I can tell it at or near the input shaft. I haven't had the truck for that long bit the steering feels fine. I put some of the lucas in and it hasn't slowed the leak. How long should it take to work and/or should I try and do another flush and refill? Also does anyone know if a rack for a 2000 LC will work in a LX, I hate having a leaky car...
I just successfully put an LC rack in a 2003 LX. There might be a very minor change in steering ratio, but I can't feel it. Other wise it's a direct swap and a nice way to save $300 over the LX rack.
This thread was very helpful for me changing bushings on a 2003. A couple things I will add:
It's not necessary to remove the tires or drain the oil. You will lose a few ounces of oil when the filter comes off, but that is all.
I was successful with 2 cold chisels: a small one about 3/8" wide with a fairly fine edge and a thicker one about 3/4" or 1" wide. Air hammer was not necessary for the top bushing on driver side (YMMV).
I found it helpful to clamp the rack to the crossmember to minimize movement while beating them out. Sometimes with a socket extension underneath as a spacer.
The new bushings go in easily. On passenger side, install both bushings then use a QuickGrip clamp or similar to press in the spacer. On driver side, get top bushing partly in with the spacer, then the bottom bushing (I did the driver side first since it's the hardest). I used a combination of clamps and a pry bar to get them all into place.
I probably finished this in 4 hours.
It's not necessary to remove the tires or drain the oil. You will lose a few ounces of oil when the filter comes off, but that is all.
I was successful with 2 cold chisels: a small one about 3/8" wide with a fairly fine edge and a thicker one about 3/4" or 1" wide. Air hammer was not necessary for the top bushing on driver side (YMMV).
I found it helpful to clamp the rack to the crossmember to minimize movement while beating them out. Sometimes with a socket extension underneath as a spacer.
The new bushings go in easily. On passenger side, install both bushings then use a QuickGrip clamp or similar to press in the spacer. On driver side, get top bushing partly in with the spacer, then the bottom bushing (I did the driver side first since it's the hardest). I used a combination of clamps and a pry bar to get them all into place.
I probably finished this in 4 hours.
So you just took out the oil filter? Interesting and will certainly consider your method. How about the two front wheels - did you have to remove those too?
I just ordered mine and will be doing this very soon.
I also just did my upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. My objective is to eliminate that floaty type of steering wheel feel on open roads and bring it back to tight feel again like new. In that process now to refreshing steering and suspension system components that wear over time.
I did not remove the wheels, but did jack it up. It was helpful to have the wheels on, as I could push/pull to move the rack around a little bit. Good luck!
Got it thank you very much.
The steering rack itself has a good 1/4” lateral movement that is not good. I will definitely do the bushings first before I get it computer aligned.
Ordered it Friday evening and Sunday afternoon it was already here. Can’t wait to get this done.
To those who have done this, how were you able to take off the binded rubber of the old worn out OE bushings on the steering rack mount?
@OEMGUY0720 I'm running into this problem now...What did you end up doing to remove all the rubber?
Getting the rubber off is nearly impossible. That rubber is heat pressed on that metal sleeve. So the key is to remove the metal oval sleeve rather than the rubber (bushing). Hope this helps.
@OEMGUY0720 Thanks. Guess I'll get after the sleeves. Any tips?
The new steering rack bushing set if it’s oem should have its own metal sleeve. If it’s an aftermarket polyurethane one like I used, it doesn’t require a metal sleeve anymore since it is stiff enough to handle the twists and torsion movement of the steering rack. The only way you can get that metal sleeve out (anyone pls correct me if I’m wrong) is by using a cold chisel and sledgehammer therefore destroying it in the process.
@OEMGUY0720 got through it! Thanks for your insight...Love The Mud
You’re welcome sir. Good times @landshark9 !
Where did you Source them from and how much were they?