2003 100LC Oil Pump/Oil leak - TB Advice

[Gunner56]

Morning all,

Just picked up a 100 series and looking for some guidance. I knew the TB was going to need to be done when purchased and am confident I can do. I did a fair amount of wrenching on my 80 when I had. However, I took into a local shop to get a baseline post buy inspection and they came back with the following notes and recommendations. Plus, a $7K estimated tag for this. Looking for guidance. My options are below. Appreciate the help in advance, Im addicted to the immense amount of knowledge found on the pages of these forums.

Option A: Have shop do the work. Supposedly end up with a fully resealed engine ready to tackle another 1/4 of a million miles. I lean towards doing things myself, but wouldn't have the ability/space to pull engine. If engine was pulled, what would other items be to tackle at this point? Manifolds, Starter, Alt, hoses, ETC. If this was the option is that price legit or out of bounds. Is Trollhole still doing work on cruisers? Im not too far from them and dont know if that would be a better option.

Option B: Pull apart timing cover and assess where leak is coming from. Do TB service, and either leave leak as is or tear in further. (PO stated that the valve covers leaked and he had those done recently. Dont suppose that build up could be coming left over from that??) I have been reading into the oil pump Oring that requires either removing the engine or pulling the diff. Im a big fan of do once cry once, but is there any amount of oil leak that would be acceptable in that area?

Note: a few other factors are that steering rack could stand to be replaced, suspension will be getting done, and I need to replace one CV axle. So I will be into the vehicle pretty good anyways doing those things. I plan on doing all this myself, the only thing that cause me pause is the oil pump scenario.

Thanks ALL!!

Pic of area where leak is suspected.

Pic of Description of work/area:

Pic of all included in Engine reseal(**what would these items be for??
TOYOTA CAM GEAR 13050-0F011
2.0
$1,211.22)

 

[awesomeissquid]

My first step would be to clean everything up really well and then run the engine and monitor it to find exactly what is leaking.

There are a few potential sources for that area and I would want to confirm that before blindly replacing anything.

Worst case would be replacing some things and it doesn’t stop the leak because it was coming from somewhere else.

 

[Gunner56]

My first step would be to clean everything up really well and then run the engine and monitor it to find exactly what is leaking.

There are a few potential sources for that area and I would want to confirm that before blindly replacing anything.

Worst case would be replacing some things and it doesn’t stop the leak because it was coming from somewhere else.

Thank you for that. Would you think I would be able to narrow it down without pulling covers for TB? Other than the tensioner bolt and the oil pump Oring, what are other common leaks in that area?

 

[2001LC]

A very common leak. Is from, not sealing threads of tensioner pulley (1# timing belt idler sub-assembly) bolt. The leak will first appear on and near tensioner. Which tensioner is the cylinder, held on by two 12mm bolts, seen in your picture.

Most oil pump O-rings. Are weeping, by 180K miles. It's such a minor oil weep. We only see when oil pump exposed, while doing a timing belt service.

We can remove the RH No.3 timing cover easiest. To take a peak, with bore scope. At top of oil pump, where O-ring leaks would be.
Yellow circle, is top of oil. Where oil pump to oil galley O-ring is. Notice the minor oil seepage, belt dust has stuck to. If it was a "leak", we'd see wet oil, running down pump.

When an oil pump leaks. We'll see on both side of block and coming out weep hold in lower timing cover.

 

[Gunner56]

Thanks for the detail there. I think my best course of action is to clean everything up, confirm area, and proceed with TB service.
I’m assuming the “weep” status of the oil pump Oring, is an acceptable weep and not worth pulling engine/pulling diff to replace?

 

[2001LC]

You're welcome!

A weep of oil pump O-ring, is acceptable IMHO. They take, ~100K miles to just see any residue of oil around O-ring area.

When engine has leaks other than head covers and tensioner bolt. I'll for one, refresh PCV system if hasn't been done. I'll also often, flush engine oil with 2 cans of BG EPR, to clean seals. Than add 10.5 oz of AT-205 to fresh oil. Run engine 5 hours or more if engine. Then clean all oily areas of engine oil, spotless taking pictures after clean. Then watch and then

Cleaning and watching very closely, for first appearance of oil leak:
When cleaning, I'll be very careful, to not spray water/soap into alternator. I'll start and run the cold engine, as I wash in area near alternator, intake manifold and head covers.

When doing timing belt service. By studying (taking pictures) of area, very closes, as I disassemble. I can evaluate the 5 points of potential leaks. i.e. cam seals, oil pump O-ring, tensioner bolt and or crank seal.
Notes:

• As water pump pulled, area below it, become wet. Which will make, pin-pointing oil leaks, that more difficult. So getting pictures before, is very valuable.
• I do not replace cam or crank seals, that aren't leaking or weeping. I've yet to see these, that are factory installed seals leaking on the 98-05. But often see replacement leaking.

I do on occasion, see oil weep at #2 idler pulley bolt threads. This is from weep at FIPG seal of oil pump, and or from O-ring.
The #1 idler (tensioner) pulley, bolts capture nut. Is open (circled in yellow) to crank case. The #2 idler pulley bolts capture (red arrow) nut, is exposed to block. Sometimes the FIPG seal around oil pump, weeps after #2 idler bolt removed for the first time. The on next T-belt service, we may see a weep. I've seen in one of the 98-07 FSM, it recommended sealing these threads also. These capture nuts, seem casting the same. So if sealing #2 bolt threads. I don't reduce torque for lubing of #2 pulley threads. Note: As a rule, reduce torque 20% to 30%. When threads lubed, that specs do not state to lube.

 

[Gunner56]

You're welcome!

A weep of oil pump O-ring, is acceptable IMHO. They take, ~100K miles to just see any residue of oil around O-ring area.

When engine has leaks other than head covers and tensioner bolt. I'll for one, refresh PCV system if hasn't been done. I'll also often, flush engine oil with 2 cans of BG EPR, to clean seals. Than add 10.5 oz of AT-205 to fresh oil. Run engine 5 hours or more if engine. Then clean all oily areas of engine oil, spotless taking pictures after clean. Then watch and then

Cleaning and watching very closely, for first appearance of oil leak:
When cleaning, I'll be very careful, to not spray water/soap into alternator. I'll start and run the cold engine, as I wash in area near alternator, intake manifold and head covers.

When doing timing belt service. By studying (taking pictures) of area, very closes, as I disassemble. I can evaluate the 5 points of potential leaks. i.e. cam seals, oil pump O-ring, tensioner bolt and or crank seal.
Notes:

• As water pump pulled, area below it, become wet. Which will make, pin-pointing oil leaks, that more difficult. So getting pictures before, is very valuable.
• I do not replace cam or crank seals, that aren't leaking or weeping. I've yet to see these, that are factory installed seals leaking on the 98-05. But often see replacement leaking.

I do on occasion, see oil weep at #2 idler pulley bolt threads. This is from weep at FIPG seal of oil pump, and or from O-ring.
The #1 idler (tensioner) pulley, bolts capture nut. Is open (circled in yellow) to crank case. The #2 idler pulley bolts capture (red arrow) nut, is exposed to block. Sometimes the FIPG seal around oil pump, weeps after #2 idler bolt removed for the first time. The on next T-belt service, we may see a weep. I've seen in one of the 98-07 FSM, it recommended sealing these threads also. These capture nuts, seem casting the same. So if sealing #2 bolt threads. I don't reduce torque for lubing of #2 pulley threads. Note: As a rule, reduce torque 20% to 30%. When threads lubed, that specs do not state to lube.
View attachment 4149384

Thanks for the detailed info. This will prove extremely helpful as I start working on it. Man I wish you were closer, I’d just bring her over to you! Appreciate all the help and I’ll keep the thread posted as I work. Do you have a thread or guide for your PCV refresh/ EPR process? Thanks again!

 

[2001LC]

You'll find tons of info in my master link. The 2000 LX w/577K KM (Emerald), would be a good read for you. See master link in signature line.

PCV:
R&R the 98-02 PCV valve, grommet and both PS & DS hoses. Make sure oil cap seal good. Make sure all vacuum hoses good.

EPR is a BG produce. Toyota/Lexus, NAPA and other parts stores in CO. carry. Pour two cans in crank case (oil fill spout). Run engine more than 20 minutes, getting to higher RPM at least for a few minutes. The drain oil and Change oil & filter. Add 10 oz AT-205 to fresh oil, if wanting to revitalize old rubber seals.

Note: AT-205 will not soak in rubber seals, cover in gunk. Which is why we use EPR engine oil flush to clean seals first.

 

[Gunner56]

You'll find tons of info in my master link. The 2000 LX w/577K KM (Emerald), would be a good read for you. See master link in signature line.

PCV:
R&R the 98-02 PCV valve, grommet and both PS & DS hoses. Make sure oil cap seal good. Make sure all vacuum hoses good.

EPR is a BG produce. Toyota/Lexus, NAPA and other parts stores in CO. carry. Pour two cans in crank case (oil fill spout). Run engine more than 20 minutes, getting to higher RPM at least for a few minutes. The drain oil and Change oil & filter. Add 10 oz AT-205 to fresh oil, if wanting to revitalize old rubber seals.

Note: AT-205 will not soak in rubber seals, cover in gunk. Which is why we use EPR engine oil flush to clean seals first.

Awesome, thank you kindly for the direction. I will dive into that. Appreciate the reply!

 

[excessive]

I run a little side hustle called "Vintage Toyota Repairs" 20 years mechanic experience with Toyota. I primarily work on 4Runners, 80's and 100s. Located in Charleston (West Ashley) let me know if you need a hand with anything

 

[Gunner56]

I run a little side hustle called "Vintage Toyota Repairs" 20 years mechanic experience with Toyota. I primarily work on 4Runners, 80's and 100s. Located in Charleston (West Ashley) let me know if you need a hand with anything

I appreciate that, I will definitely keep that in mind. Thanks for reaching out.