2000 LX470 Nakamichi Amp Bypass - which wires do I join to send power to head unit? (1 Viewer)

[yuji]

I'm about to replace my head unit on my 2000 LX with Nakamichi.

I'm going to bypass the amp.

Which wires do I combine for power, accessory, and ground so that the head unit gets power? The helpful tlcfaq.com lists only for the Land Cruiser connectors.

Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stra

tlcfaq.com

Land Cruiser notes:​

• Toyota has a feedback loop for power to the head unit via the factory amplifier. The radio connections in the upper dash have several feeds coming from the factory amplifier. So if you use the factory connections in the upper dash and you are changing out the amplifier you will need to tie wires together at the amp location for power, accessory and ground. The amplifier has two connectors (S6 is 16 Pin and S7 is 14 pin). If the following connections are not made or bypassed you won’t have power to the new radio.
  • On Connector S7 remove pin 3 (B+ out) and on Connector S6 remove pin 7 (B+ in) and tie them together using appropriate crimp or solder them.
  • On Connector S7 remove pins 2 (accessory in) and 9 (accessory out) and tie them together using appropriate crimp or solder them.
  • On Connector S7 remove pin 10 (ground int) and on Connector S6 remove pin 13 (Ground out) and tie them together using appropriate crimp or solder them.
  • On Connector S7 remove pin 1 to use for your new amplifier “turn on” signal.

I have the 22 pin connector at the head unit with the following wiring :

• 1 +B (white)
• 2 +B2 (blue/yellow)
• 3
• 4 Illumination (green)
• 5 Antenna + (black/red)
• 6 Signal FL + (pink)
• 7
• 8 Signal RR + (red)
• 9 Signal RL + (black)
• 10 Acc + (gray)
• 11 E Ground (brown)
• 12
• 13 Illumination + (white/green)
• 14 Amplifier + (black/red)
• 15 Mute (amplifier) (orange)
• 16 Beep (green)
• 17 Signal FR – (blue)
• 18 Signal FR + (light green)
• 19 Signal FL – (violet)
• 20
• 21 Signal RR – (white)
• 22 Signal RL – (yellow)

I can find the B, ACC, and Ground with a continuity test at the under seat amp end, but how do I know which the "other" one is (one set is "in", one set is "out", and I feel like I can only figure out one set.)

Thanks yall.

 

[Fullthrottle100]

I don’t have an answer for your exact question because I ended up passing on the work to a professional, but this thread is the one I showed them to assist them in their work.

Nakamichi Update - '99 LX 470 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/nakamichi-update-99-lx-470.1066006/

 

[yuji]

I don’t have an answer for your exact question because I ended up passing on the work to a professional, but this thread is the one I showed them to assist them in their work.

Nakamichi Update - '99 LX 470 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/nakamichi-update-99-lx-470.1066006/

I read that whole thread like 3 times that guy is a monster! But I don’t think he bypassed the amp..

Maybe the LX Nakamichi doesn’t require this mod — RobRed did specifically spell out “land cruiser notes” not lx!

 

[Fullthrottle100]

I read that whole thread like 3 times that guy is a monster! But I don’t think he bypassed the amp..

Maybe the LX Nakamichi doesn’t require this mod — RobRed did specifically spell out “land cruiser notes” not lx!

I apologize I missed the part where you said you were wanting to bypass the amp. Yeah that thread doesn’t cover that. Good luck in your hunt for the answer!

 

[yuji]

The answer was to jump /connect the blue/yellow wires on the orange connector, and the grey wires together.

Blue/yellow+blue/yellow
Grey+grey

Power to head unit achieved.

 

[ScottyRt66]

Waking up this thread again - @yuji what did you install? And id love to know, did you use a new connectlike some have done or did you just pull the factory wires you needed from the 22 pin connector and patch that way?

 

[yuji]

@ScottyRt66 I ended up with a cheap ATOTO S12 or something like that. I do NOT recommend, go with a name brand unless you like gremlins in the software. Dealing with CarPlay connecting 50-70% of the time is very frustrating. I will probably upgrade to something else at some point.

I cut off the original plug between the amp and the truck so that I theoretically have the original harness. Just had to wire the labeled wires to the corresponding wire on the head unit. The trouble was finding the right diagram, and figuring out you need to jump some wires that previously had the amp control power to head unit.

 

[ScottyRt66]

@ScottyRt66 I ended up with a cheap ATOTO S12 or something like that. I do NOT recommend, go with a name brand unless you like gremlins in the software. Dealing with CarPlay connecting 50-70% of the time is very frustrating. I will probably upgrade to something else at some point.

I cut off the original plug between the amp and the truck so that I theoretically have the original harness. Just had to wire the labeled wires to the corresponding wire on the head unit. The trouble was finding the right diagram, and figuring out you need to jump some wires that previously had the amp control power to head unit.

That’s what I’m dealing with now.
bypassing the amp is apparently not everyones go-to move lol

most everything is connected, still no power to the head unit. (Alpine ILX-007)
I’m digging back through all the write Ups now To see what I missed.

 

[ScottyRt66]

@ScottyRt66 I ended up with a cheap ATOTO S12 or something like that. I do NOT recommend, go with a name brand unless you like gremlins in the software. Dealing with CarPlay connecting 50-70% of the time is very frustrating. I will probably upgrade to something else at some point.

I cut off the original plug between the amp and the truck so that I theoretically have the original harness. Just had to wire the labeled wires to the corresponding wire on the head unit. The trouble was finding the right diagram, and figuring out you need to jump some wires that previously had the amp control power to head unit.

@yuji here’s what I’m looking at. planning to drop a sub amp here and feed the factory sub for now, but as you can see there’s a lot of unconnected connections! clearly not finished but so far I haven’t blown anything up!
does this look right?

 

[yuji]

@yuji here’s what I’m looking at. planning to drop a sub amp here and feed the factory sub for now, but as you can see there’s a lot of unconnected connections! clearly not finished but so far I haven’t blown anything up!
does this look right?

View attachment 2876311

Looks clean!!

I'd say... the colors seem to match too well. I'd just make sure you're following a Toyota diagram for what the pins are, and not the colors. I _thought_ my factory colors not matching standardized amp defaults. Not discounting it could be right. I just thought I remembered needing to rely hard on those diagrams.

 

[ScottyRt66]

I'm about to replace my head unit on my 2000 LX with Nakamichi.

I'm going to bypass the amp.

Which wires do I combine for power, accessory, and ground so that the head unit gets power? The helpful tlcfaq.com lists only for the Land Cruiser connectors.

Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stra

tlcfaq.com

I have the 22 pin connector at the head unit with the following wiring :

• 1 +B (white)
• 2 +B2 (blue/yellow)
• 3
• 4 Illumination (green)
• 5 Antenna + (black/red)
• 6 Signal FL + (pink)
• 7
• 8 Signal RR + (red)
• 9 Signal RL + (black)
• 10 Acc + (gray)
• 11 E Ground (brown)
• 12
• 13 Illumination + (white/green)
• 14 Amplifier + (black/red)
• 15 Mute (amplifier) (orange)
• 16 Beep (green)
• 17 Signal FR – (blue)
• 18 Signal FR + (light green)
• 19 Signal FL – (violet)
• 20
• 21 Signal RR – (white)
• 22 Signal RL – (yellow)

I can find the B, ACC, and Ground with a continuity test at the under seat amp end, but how do I know which the "other" one is (one set is "in", one set is "out", and I feel like I can only figure out one set.)

Thanks yall.

View attachment 2727137

I’m backtracking now - how did you get here?

Looks clean!!

I'd say... the colors seem to match too well. I'd just make sure you're following a Toyota diagram for what the pins are, and not the colors. I _thought_ my factory colors not matching standardized amp defaults. Not discounting it could be right. I just thought I remembered needing to rely hard on those diagrams.

i followed the TLCFAQ by RobRed to get it this far, plus oh-so-many hours reading through the Pablo write up and several others.
It is a brain buster for me!

i may be in over my head.

The tlcfaq writeup you mention in the OP talks about connections we have to jump but it’s different in the LX. is it only the blue/yellow pair and grey pair that need to be jumped for power?

 

[yuji]

@ScottyRt66 Ahh haha sounds good.

Yeah, I just had to connect those two. Blue+yellow on both ends. Gray on both ends. Was yours a Nakamichi? If we have the same year/stereo, I'd feel safe doing exactly that.

I don't actually recall how I got there, I just remember being extra confused for what felt like an entire week and breaking through. I remember the outcome, not the process... I'm sorry that's not especially confidence inspiring.