1HD-T turbo troubles - What do I do?

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So the question arises:
How could my turbo sieze after shutting it off, and not make any noise before hand. Up until the point I tried to go past about 2000rpm things felt normal. With no funny noises or anything.

Here is the answer. A piece came loose inside the turbo and jamed it once it spooled down. So once I started it up again it was jammed. Thats why it ran normal until about 2000rpm. After that the turbo was acting like a J-Brake. I am going to ask ADP what the piece is from.

Cheers,
Nick

BTW: I STILL NEED THE TURBO GASKET PART NUMBERS.
Please and thank you :)

Here is the pic:
Notice the black thing in front.
old_turbo_piece.jpg
 
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nickw said:
But right now, where I live, I can still buy a house, rent it and cover the mortgage.
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I forgot you're not in the Lower Mainland. Friend of mine in Trail has has a big old house he bought for 75K ten years ago - still worth about 75K he says.:frown:
 
Previa Diesel said:
I forgot you're not in the Lower Mainland. Friend of mine in Trail has has a big old house he bought for 75K ten years ago - still worth about 75K he says.:frown:
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This is why I want to get a house now.
They are going up, but they are still reasonable right now.
If I sold my cruiser tomorrow I can still get into a decent house.

Anyways, I am pretty sure I want to do this.
At minimum my cruiser is too nice to pin stripe.
I find many trails which I don't want to take for fear of damaging an expensive truck.

I think I would rather have something I can do body damage to and shrug it off, and not cry.

Anyways, I am pretty sure I will sell the cruiser.
Might get another BJ60 and build it a little and still be under $6000

Anways, can we try to stay on topic a little more.
Maybe I shouls start another thread about selling the cruiser with pro's and cons.

Cheers
Nick
 
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To free up a bit of coin you should start with that L!nd R$ver of yours! :D
Sorry NIck couldnt resist... I m sure glad you didnt go with the $2 -3K quote you first got - thats simply not right IMHO. Dunno about house and int rates etc - personally I'd invest in real property (rural with trees, good water, view, house is bonus), but I got ten years on you so what the heck do I know...!?
:beer:
Just have fun and remember - never bet more than you can afford to loose.

JOhnny
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles with your 1HDT Nick. You've been very helpful to me when I got my truck and I appreciated your comments. I'm still playing around with the thing. It's an ongoing process. It is good to see all the thoughtful opinions you've had on this forum. There are many strong points of view here. One thing I always remember - from several old folks at old folks homes I met in my past - was that most had regret not for the things they did, but the things they did not do. Food for thought. Anyhow, I hope that even if you decide to sell your 81, that you will keep posting. Take care.

Martin
 
nickw said:
Just wondering why the garrett turbo is better?
Spool faster? Better build? More reliable?

I was going to try and find another BJ60 again and do a DIY turbo (was thinking a garrett of a Chrysler Labaron).
I was hoping I could turbo a 3B for under $700 with a rebuilt turbo.
Think its possible?

Cheers,
Nick
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They do a kinda hybrid now in the garretts, They use a T3 and T4 garrett and get quick spool with the room to go high in power.

The stock turbo, while is really good is a basic turbo. Look a bit on the web at the turbos guys are building for ricer crowd. Things have changed since 1990.

I'm not a turbo guru, by any means. Just surfed lots and talked to a few people in turbo shops. I understand the theorys in the most part too.

A good turbo builder can really dial the turbo to match the engine. By picking the right weight and size comp wheel and the right size housing(A/r thingies) and so on.

Thats why those turbos Wayne put on the 1Hz come off so decent. Very well matched. I think his last one was a massaged Ct26 with different comp and stuff???? Is that so Wayne.
 
Nick the EPC doesn't list overhual gaskets. Sure there is the oil drain gasket, 15471-58010

17278-88380 is the base gasket.

But for either you could use red rtv gasket. Thats what the turbo shop I bought my adapter told me to use.
 
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Gasket, Turbo oil inlet 15471-58010
Gasket, water bypass 16347-42020
Gasket, turbo to ex manifold 17278-88380
Gasket, turbine outlet elbow 17279-17020

The second two are steel and probably fine just fine to reuse.
The first two may come with your RB turbo but if you want a set to be sure. The first 3 are good North American Toyota numbers.

May the force be with you
 
70sguy said:
Gasket, Turbo oil inlet 15471-58010
Gasket, water bypass 16347-42020
Gasket, turbo to ex manifold 17278-88380
Gasket, turbine outlet elbow 17279-17020

The second two are steel and probably fine just fine to reuse.
The first two may come with your RB turbo but if you want a set to be sure. The first 3 are good North American Toyota numbers.

May the force be with you
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Many thanks Sheldon.
I will put these in the part number thread as well.

Thanks so much for all your help
Nick
 
Nick,
A couple of things to consider.
1. Do you want a truck for crawling and off road exclusively or?? The more serious you are on rock crawling and off road the less useful that same truck is for distance driving. Case in point, would you take Ricky's Suby (not the Grand Vitara) to Vancouver (especially in winter) after riding in it from where you stopped last Sunday evening? You are talking two DIFFERENT uses.
2. Have you worked the math on the home ownership and possible rental? Unless you get lucky, as we might have, that usually doesn't happen. We were looking at $400+ over the potential rent to buy a single family place.
3. You KNOW from my truck that your '80 can EASILY last you 20 years or more with decent maintenance, care and annual rust proofing. Wayne and others have also seen my truck which is a Canadian '60 series with 460,000+ kM. With the new frame I figure my truck is good for another 20 years!!
4. When you sell the '80 you STILL have the rest of the debts. They are not going to vanish. Get rid of ALL the debts FIRST, then see how things look. If the housing market crashes, as it very well might, you DON'T want a high ratio mortgage + other debt all worth MORE than the property. I think I've told you about the folks that I bought my first house from but if not PM me and I'll fill you in or you know who might also be able to tell you!
 
Interest rates are climbing. I was in the 4.5% range a year and bit ago, now I think I am going into the 6% range. The payment jumps huge as it goes up.

When the interest hits 10% houses all over are going to be sold. Interest will hit 10 again. Probably in a few years time.
 
Greetings Charles,

I know the cruiser is a great truck, and I love it to death. I also know it is probably the best long term choice (that is why I got it :) ). The ONLY reason I want to sell it is to get into a property a few years sooner (try to get further ahead). I would not buy a property until I have paid off my debt (or very close to being paid). So it would still be awhile away. My thought here is to clear debt and get ahead.

Now that I know I need a 15% down payment, it changes things. So I am not sure what I am going to do. My thought was if I was debt free with money in the bank, when I did find a good deal I would be ready. I see now it will take me awhile to clear debt and to save up a down payment at 15%.

But your right.
Probably best to clear other debt first and then see where I am at.
The cruiser is a great vehicle and I do currently have it (all it needs is a turbo :) )

Cheers,
Nick
 
brownbear said:
Interest rates are climbing. I was in the 4.5% range a year and bit ago, now I think I am going into the 6% range. The payment jumps huge as it goes up.

When the interest hits 10% houses all over are going to be sold. Interest will hit 10 again. Probably in a few years time.
Click to expand...

That is what Charles said too.
The more I think about it, the more waiting makes sense.
Even if I buy something now for $125K, in a few years it might be worth only $100K if interest climbs. Even if I was renting it, I doubt I would of paid off 25K by then.

Now I just need to save up and be ready for when that happens.

So after all this I probably will keep the cruiser.
It is a great truck after all. :)
Now I just need to send off the turbo.

Cheers,
Nick
 
I thought we were supposed to stick to turbos, but since we're still talking real estate, I'd suggest finding something with marketable timber on it. Sell the timber to help pay for the land. Make sure it has water too.
 
Previa Diesel said:
I thought we were supposed to stick to turbos, but since we're still talking real estate, I'd suggest finding something with marketable timber on it. Sell the timber to help pay for the land. Make sure it has water too.
Click to expand...

Yeah, we were suppossed to try and stay of topic :)
But that kinda went to the wind.

In Canada I need 25% minimum down if there is water, sewage and power
and 35% minimum if all 3 above are not present.

I really do want to buy land. I have looked into timber value vrs land value and most real estate angents are wise to tree value now. They will have the trees timber cruised before sale. You are very lucky to find a piece of property with the tree value being more than the land.

I heard about one guy on the BC coast buying 12 acres for about $200K. And selectivly logging 2 million worth of trees. But they were 120ft+ tall cedar that could be used for telephone polls. I think they were priced at $5000 per 80 ft log, and another $1000 per foot after. So a 100 foot log has a value of $25K. It is very hard to get good polls now. He was lucky! I am always keeping my eye out for something like that. But he was 1 in 1000.

Cheers,
Nick
 
Nick .. nice to see that you have a way to solve your problems .. to my knoweledge .. you can take detailed pics of damage in your CT26 .. ?
 
Tapage said:
Nick .. nice to see that you have a way to solve your problems .. to my knoweledge .. you can take detailed pics of damage in your CT26 .. ?
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I am not the one rebuilding it, and I don't want to take it apart. :)
I am sure it it failed because a piece came loose in the turbo (see pic on (page 1).
I would just like to know were it came from (bearing? part of the casing?), and why?

Cheers,
Nick
 
Nick.

Just FYI, my 2.4TD in my Hilux Surf suffered a jammed Turbo like this. Didn't danage the turbo at all, removed the swarf and the turbo ran fine after that. The CT26 and CT20s are know to blow seals fairly early on in their life (around 100K miles is common) however replace the seals with new and they will run and run, they are pretty well built as long as you observe the normal precautions of allowing the engine to cool a little after a fast run.
 
Hey Nick, you know someone that can probably cruise it for you too!!

nickw said:
I really do want to buy land. I have looked into timber value vrs land value and most real estate angents are wise to tree value now. They will have the trees timber cruised before sale. You are very lucky to find a piece of property with the tree value being more than the land.

I heard about one guy on the BC coast buying 12 acres for about $200K. And selectivly logging 2 million worth of trees. But they were 120ft+ tall cedar that could be used for telephone polls. I think they were priced at $5000 per 80 ft log, and another $1000 per foot after. So a 100 foot log has a value of $25K. It is very hard to get good polls now. He was lucky! I am always keeping my eye out for something like that. But he was 1 in 1000.

Cheers,
Nick
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